Blake

How does WA PASS sound instead?

Phil, that is the same ridge. I think it took us about 2 hours, Tim might remember better. Beckey suggest 4 hours. I'm not sure how many times it's been done, probably just a handfull. The West Summit register was probably buried by snow when you were there two Junes ago, but the cool Company Glacier ski video on your webpage helped plant the seed for this route in my mind.

As Far as trees go, I figure if you can fall and hit it, then you can use it for the climb.

wow... 3x Idaho in one month! that looks like a really fun climb John. Did you use the #6?

generally its a safe bet to assume that frequently done/easier-ish/cascades classic type routes can be rapped with a single 60m. (or stations have been set up by now to allow this)

Erik, critique the guidebook all that you want, but personally attacking Dallas Kloke because the Erie trail system is bad, or (in your opinion) he doesn't place bolts in the proper spots seems like a bit of a cheap shot. He's done more impressive climbs in the cascades and encouraging of new climbers to get-out-there than most of us could ever hope to do. He's not forcing his faith on anyone, he mentions it on the back cover of a book HE wrote and WE bought... not a very unusual thing for an author to do, although I guess rare among climbing guides. Down in PDX, Rocky Butte ( a crag FAR WORSE than Erie) which has an even worse guidebook (IMO) is being cleaned, climbed, explored, drytooled, and enjoyed by lots of cc.comers who took the initiative to make the best of their situation and see that even dirty dry-tooling in urban portland can be fun. Critiqueing is one thing, but just complaining and attacking someone personally is something else. P.S. I'll have a car in B-ham this fall so we can go to Squamish, Index, or somewhere else non-Erie in my ride!

Climb: Bonanza-NW Ridge via Dark, Needle Pk. (IV 5.8) Date of Climb: 8/20/2006 Trip Report: This 2-day North-to-South climb followed a huge connecting ridge that stretches all the way from Needle Peak to the true summit of Bonanza Peak. The original plan had been to stay on the crest the entire time, but deep notches between Needle Peak and the Anonymity Towers provided the impetus for a detour on day one. Tim Halder (TheRunningDog) and I spent Friday night at Swamp Creek Camp along Agnes Creek, before heading out Saturday morning on Needle’s long North Ridge. The climbing was fun and featured sections of solid fourth and low-fifth class rock to the summit, which had seen 2 entries in the previous five years. Tim and I sketching out on what Beckey calls “third class with some exposure present.” Lovin’ the views after sewing up the North Ridge of needle. After working our way along the ridge from Needle, we decided that we’d need to rappel down to the East side to access water and avoid steep gulleys. We contoured lower towards the Dark Glacier before noticing a likely looking access point to regain the ridge between two previously unclimbed peaks known as the Anonymity Towers. (Green Beckey Guide, Page 232) South Tower North Peak Both of these peaks are just over 7,500’ and we built cairns and left registers on both North and South towers. The South tower required 2 pitches of low 5th class, while the North Summit was a simple scramble. We eventually worked our way onto the Dark Glacier and began the climb, which was straightforward and got us back onto the ridge crest for good. Tim leads the way up to the ‘Dark Divide.’ Atop Dark Peak on Saturday evening. We enjoyed an amazing sunset from our ridgeline shiver-bivy that night, and continued along the crest early Sunday morning with pleasant climbing and plenty of mileage ahead. Myself and Tim, taking turns leading the way. The final 1,000’ up to the West Summit of Bonanza was actually the easiest part of the day, and we arrived on top to find an old tin-can register with 2 entries in the previous 54 years. (‘52, ’03) From the West summit, Beckey quotes that “knifed teeth and vertical walls gave absolute protection” to the true summit, so it was comforting to know that the traverse had at actually been completed in the past. We found the climbing memorable, if loose in spots. Ye-Haw Bonanza! The last 3 pitches were actually very solid rock and some of the best climbing of the route. Enjoying some Stehekin Bakery cinnamon rolls on the summit. We down-climbed solid rock to the Mary Greene Glacier and descended skier’s left without too many crevasse problems. Tim and the Entiat fire. Gear Notes: Full rack of rock gear to 2” and Glacier gear. Ice tool might have been nice for the upper Mary Greene Glacier. Approach Notes: Approach 8 miles up the Agnes Creek trail from the Stehekin Road. Best part of the de-proach (after ice cream in Holden Village)

I think its just the 'Middle Summit'. Probably about 4 or 5 full-length pitches of rock up to 5.6ish. It looks taller than the (slightly) taller true summit from the glacier and is a more intersting climb. Allison did a good job on her first backpacking trip except she was a bit hard to keep up with sometimes. Next time she has to carry the , , and guard it better from the hungry

Any recent info on the mary greene glacier on Bonanza? How broken, any moat, etc? Thanks

It was there until a couple weeks ago, probably about July 30th or so... I can't remember if it melts out/falls down every year or not. For such a "High" snow year this year, the cascades are pretty dry for mid-august IMO.

Did you see any of the three bolts Nelson/Dietrich placed on the face climbing in the general area about 60m up near where those cracks jump left below the roof? We never saw any and I looked really carefully. Hit me up in B-Ham this winter and I can give you as much info regarding freeing the line as I can recall.

Both went back the way we had come, he from the west, me to Stehekin.

Way cool! John, maybe we'll have to try and 2nd Ascent their middle summit route after they repeated the south ridge/cannonhole. Sol... what would you rate that first part of the W. Face? Did you hop on the South ridge at that fun little 5.7ish right facing dihedral on the far left?

Might be Gordy's last alpine adventure actually.... I think that a great 4-ish day alpine trip would be to climb the NE buttress of Goode, then descend the easy way to the Park Creek Trail, walk 1/2 mile up the trail to the 5-mile camp, and then do Buckner SE Ridge the next day and carry over to Cascade Pass.

Climb: Mt. Buckner-Southeast Ridge (F.A.) IV 5.8 Date of Climb: 8/6/2006 Trip Report: On August 5th and 6th Gordy Skoog and I climbed the SE Ridge of Mt. Buckner. Gordy had been eyeing this climb for 25 years, ever since seeing the line from a climb of Goode. I had been interested in the line for about 25 days, since seeing it while windsurfing in front of my house. I asked Colin Haley if he was keen to have a go at it, but he was busy with some other little climb , and he mentioned that Gordy had shown an interest in the Ridge. We met up at the toe of the ridge and the base of the Buckner Glacier on the evening of the 5th, after I approached via Park Creek and he came down Booker-Buckner Col. We soloed the lower 1/3 of the ridge in a couple hours that evening finding nice 4th and low 5th class climbing. (Gordy still looking photogenic after 12+ hours on-the-go.) We slept at a notch where the glacier reaches the ridge and began pitching things out the next morning. The climbing was initially quite loose, but the rock quality improved and good cracks were found as we climbed up the first of several major towers on the ridge. We made one rappel to get down the backside of this tower and decided to try bypassing future towers in order to avoid more up-and-down than needed. After skirting around to the left side of the ridge, we climbed back to the crest and topped out on the SE summit at 5:30. We scrambled over to the true summit and enjoyed the views all the way to Puget Sound before heading down towards Horseshoe Basin. I spent the night in Horseshoe Basin and hiked home yesterday, while Gordy headed out via Sahale Arm. We creatively named it Southeast Ridge of Mt. Buckner – grade IV, 5.8 If you do the climb from Stehekin mid-season onward, you won’t need an ice axe, crampons, or even boots. Ditching my crampons and approaching in light running shoes definitely made climbing easier on the carry-over. We figured if you climbed up and rapped off the towers we bypassed it would likely be a grade V route. Thanks again to John Scurlock for some excellent photos and to Gordy for the climb. Gear Notes: Rock gear to 2" Approach Notes: Leave the Park Creek trail in open meadows 15 minutes past the 5 mile camp, cross the creek and head directly to the base of the route. Two hours from the trail to the start of the climb with no brush and no steep snow this time of year.

Does Tim Werwie still work there?

Nice to see you back with modesty intact Erik! I'd say just forget the bolting endeavor and hang out in the village enjoying the cheap ice cream and bowling.

Here's Chris "MtnFreak" and I in the same spot last fall.

I had a nut placed at the top where undercover and zig-zag join that became fixed pro and was there for at least 6 months... did you notice if that was there as well?

Mike, you can't do ALL the routes there with one rope. IMO the best route at erie is combining the first pitch of zig zag, with "Undercover" then going to "Springboard. Goes at 5.6, 5.7, 5.8+ and continuous climbing. You can get a good blue alien or sideways small nut where your left hand is in that photo to protect the springboard traverse.

you gonna be there billy?

no wonder people are scared of cc.com. just read this thread and imagine anyone actually climbing! I heard there might be some decent granite cracks somewhere around 11worth.

Any objections to Sept 30th? (Oly, if you lick my girlfriend's shirt i'll kill you with one of NOLSe's ice tools)

how's the "complete c2c" different?

I object, I think late september is better so i can show up and wont be in Stehekin... Really though, I think the 30th would be better for all the students who are back around by then and not at summer jobs or summer alpine climbs or summer fire-fighting duties. Anyone object to the 30th?