Blake

pine trees make you think east side whiter granite seems more squamish or index Too "climbed" to be very remote. somewhere in the enchantments?

under-21 allowed?

The minute mart in winthrop has 50%-off hot food after 8pm! that's a deluxe dinner after a day of climbing at the pass.

dang people, I post early for a reason, don't wait for the day before!

sure you can

now who's gonna jump on the wall across the gulley from Spont Arete?

I think girth hitching flakes/trees etc is still ok. Take that protruding pillar thing below the crux of Godzilla. Both times on that route I've girth hitched that with a 48" runner and felt confident running it up the flake a ways, because that pro is bomber. Hitching a skinny runner around a wide tree or block is different that hitching it around another really skinny sling. In the case of a lead fall, the runner wouldn't cut through itself (or another runner) but merely cinch down tightly on the block/tree trunk. I think with this rap anchor failure that the half-dozen time-consuming rappels on the same anchor had in essence made one of these skinny slings saw cleanly through the other.

anyone ever follow up?

dang... did anyone go to any of these? What kind of climbing is there a "moratorium" on? Bolting within a certain area?

Mike, without any facts to add, I'd suggest that if you do have to girth hitch runners (or do so when you run out of carabiners) that you girth hitch the widest ones you have left at the time. On moderate alpine routes I often bring just enough carabiners to clip the wires on nuts, while girth hitching to cam sling and hex slings. I don't think I'll be doing that from now on.

the sling here didn't really "wear out" or even "blow out" under a load.. it seems like being cut over a sharp edge (itself or another runner) is really what happened.

Hey all.. anyone intersted in climbing in leaveworth on SAT/SUN of this coming weekend? IF you are in b-ham, we could carpool as well. Mostly intersted in trad .9 and .10s but I'm open to suggestions. weather looks great.

DMM only makes peanuts #1-5 See your PM s

yeah, those first couple crack moves on the last real pitch kinda caught me off guard as well. I think the fact that the crack is bomber hands/feet with good knobs for 100' below that makes those couple moves off the belay seem harder than they really are.

Dru, i'm sure you would know the name of it. I was on Harmfull Health, next to Quarryman in teh SMoke bluffs, and they were about 30 feet to my right... i think it was an .11- trad line. They seemed like squamish locals, one of them had just downclimbed Quarryman before they walked over to do the climb on which the carabiner snapped.

It was a BD hotwire. Someone asked him if it had been dropped and he or his partner said not that theycould remember, and that dropping gear (even a long ways) doesn't damage it.

Some fellows at the SMoke bluffs today broke a BD hotwire carabiner on a very short fall. Probably no more than a 7 foot fall, with probably 30 feet of rope out. The biner broke at the top of the spine where it begins to bend. It was definitely not a "new biner" but looked like the ones on my (and most likely your) rack. His next piece down caught him and he was ok.. but how common is this kinda thing? They weren't able to tell if the gate was open or not at the time of the fall. It didn't appear to be loaded over an edge. -Blake

I think she's hot. So is Mythos girl. you got the wrong person, Bug. Mythos-girly isn't even in that pic. Just Rolf, Kelly, and a goat.

if anyone cares enough to see mine again... sure. It's a movie so it's not as if I need to do anything. Maybe it's jst time for a B-ham pub club with Billygoat and Ketch.

check out the topos Mark Allen drew of Burgundy Spire and of SEWS for the Mojo Rising route. Those were fantastic hand-drawn topos.

Sorry Outside...

didn't eat as many cinnamon rolls as I should have... Only one post-climb icecream cone in Holden... Fun climbs with good people in the mountains.

That's one scruffy critter! plus, if you look closely you can see a goat too.

yeah definitely. look closely at 3:19 into it. She had placed the piece earlier and you can see her climb by it at about 2:00

wonder why that piece pulled...