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Blake

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Everything posted by Blake

  1. Blake

    axes

    Just for the head's up, the ones with curved handles and aggressive picks for technical climbs are "ice Tools" not ice axes. I have those Grivel Ta-Ka-Oons you are looking at. You can borrow them if you want to, but its not really ice season right now.
  2. Better than almost getting killed by a weTa.
  3. In the Bugs, is there chickenwire laying around the parking lot, or must you supply it yourself?>
  4. Here's the weirdest thing: They were in an "emergency/rescue" situation, and they abandoned a bunch of gear! What kind of stuff did they bring along with them that was more useful laying on the snow than helping them keep warm/survive? If you were hunkering down, injured, in a storm for who-knows-how-long, would you just ditch a bunch of your gear? If it was that useless, why bring it?
  5. stick with the jacket you own! your down will be lighter and more compressible, which are your two concerns. If it rainy, you wont be climbing technical rock anyways. Down is the best choice for cascades summer trips. On trips like that in the summer in the cascades, I take a t-shirt, a long sleeve poly-pro type shirt, and then a light down jacket. Early morning belays, windy ridges, just throw that thing on and you'll be warm enough. If it looks like maybe rain, I'll throw in a light rain jacket to the pack as well. If it is steadily raining, you are probably going to be hiking (back to the car). If it's warm enough to rain and you are moving, you wont want to be wearing an insulated jacket. Basically, insualted jackets are worn in the summer when you are not moving. This would be during belays, or lounging around camp outside the tent. You likely wouldn't be doing either of these things during a prolonged rain. Don't waste your money on more gear when what you have is what you need.
  6. What's the first pitch of the regualar route at Careno? I remember it feeling difficult for the grade and I definitely plan out my the moves right.
  7. If anyone wants to have the Silver Skis day this year, I'd be interested.
  8. i'll be there the next week. (25-3rd)
  9. High Five! That sucks about some of the cold-weather problems, but on the bright side, maybe it's better to get those things figured out now and be more ready for similar conditions in Pakistan this summer.
  10. Blake

    the queens of spray

    I actually think MissNormandy is a real person who went to my high school.
  11. Blake

    the queens of spray

    Miss Normandy...
  12. John, i think if you are mainly tracking how you change over time, then the model matters less than should you want an absolute accurate number.
  13. You said all your issues were due to not enough calories on you trips in the mountains. Well, eating more high-fat foods like cheese and sausage will help that. There's a practical reason most alpinists take along fatty foods... lots of calories for the weight!
  14. no longer... update on the climb and bolts in case any stumbles across this thread. http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=563718&an=&page=
  15. Joseph, you spend dozens of days each year at beacon rock, and live within a day trip of Trout Creek. Why would you build a crack machine... go hop on the real thing and make yourself jam.
  16. A few weeks ago I took the old Jansport pack I had bought for backpacking in 8th grade, and returned it. It had a totally destroyed zipper, and I had overdried/melted part of it after an August snowstorm with John Frieh and Craig Gyselinck. I mailed the pack to Jansport's address in Everett and Jansport soon sent me back a completely new Pack that is lighter and snazier than my old one! I'm not saying Jansport is the greatest tecnical pack designer out there, but you can't beat that warranty and service.
  17. i would recomend increased intake of sausage, cheese, and if you can, cinnamon rolls.... on all upcoming mountain trips. However, the Mike Layton alpine diet of Cigrettes and Whiskey has proven fairly successful for him!
  18. if you can't get the book, check out the mt erie entry on www.summitpost.org The powerline wall is a good first-time spot.
  19. dang, why does next week have to be finals week?? Have fun Wayne!
  20. you think anything in d-town will be climbable? If erie is dry, i might be available.
  21. maybe another category for "best overall entry" for someone who has lots of great shots, but no winner?
  22. I am sad that i went to the gym to try and climb today and all the holds were removed from the wall above 10'up. Up and down the crack gets old fast. I can climb 5.11 stemming outside, and can't climb 5.8 stemming at the WWU gym.
  23. Alpine - Gordy Skoog on Buckner's SE Ridge Crag - Try and Stay Dry Scenic - Mt. Cook National Park Ski - On Mt. Goode in February Boulder - New Zealand Beach Ice - Graham Johnson on Mt. Aspiring Humor - Devious Parrot
  24. Can the photos be ones you have that your climbing partner, a non cc.commie, took of you?
  25. I'll be in RR from the 24-April 3rd. shoot me an email
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