Blake

Guess away...

W. Ridge of the North Twin

check your math.

!ACTUALLY AT 7 PM! Mike Libecki is having a show on campus at WWU on the 22nd. His show here 2 years ago was rad, with tons of free stuff given out. He'll be showing pictures of crazy big-wall climbs and solo FAs all around the world. Tickets are $8 general and $5 with a student card. If any non-students want to go, let me know, and I will be glad to get you a cheaper ticket. We could even go down to Boundary Bay afterward if anyone was interested.

Hey all, I will be heading down to Red Rocks for about 10 days at the end of MArch. This will be my first time in the area, and I'll be meeting friends and looking to climb. The group of part-time climbers probably wont tackle anything above .10a or so, but adventurous routes, complicated descents, etc are fine. Any list of things I need to know about Vegas/RR/the area? What quirks or insider tips do you wish you had known? Where are the cheapest buffets and all that? What routes are the MUST-DO climbs, if we climb for 5 days or so. (Black Orpheus and Frigid Air Buttress look awesome) Also, we'll probably do some kind of 3-4 day exciting and scenic backpacking trip somewhere around there at that time as well. As someone who has never been to the SouthWest, would the GRand Canyon be a good idea in this regard? Any other recomendations for a hike? Thanks! -Blake P.S. does anyone live in Vegas or have connections that could loan us (4 of us) a floor and shower for the night? Anyone else going to be there at that time and want to climb?

Replace the Gordy Skoog/Gary Brill route on the East side of Gunsight (no longer there) with the adjacent climb done last summer. http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=588826&an=&page=

yes, finally! now I wont need to do any more bushwacking, I can just plow a road to the wildest spots in the Cascades.

I have Ta-ka-oons, if you are ever going through bellingham (Like to Pan Dome or Lilooet) you are free to borrow mine.

NW face, or NW face of North Ridge?

Patagonia Talus are simple and good.

See the thread at the top of the list in the "newbies" forum.

Even if you put in the trail the week before? Nice job Dave and John! can you explain teh descent a little more vis-a-vis your photo or topo? Rap the route with V threads? Why the hell were people blowing up the summit of 3-fingers in 1931?

rain and hail today :-(

Some people are meeting in the lower parking lot at 11AM. If you are looking for someone to climb with tomorrow, show up and say hi.

So to everyone else who has this problem, or gave me some advice... I fixed it. Basically, the exhaust pipe/manifold that was just behind the engine had a couple thin pieces of loose sheet-metal surrounding it. I couldn't quite tell which ones were loose, but after banging around on various bits and pieces with an ice tool, I had a pretty good idea. It helped to have a friend rev the engine to the usually-noisy RPM level, and i firmly held the suspect piece to see if that was the right one. I couldn't get the noise to completely stop by just holding it tight with my hand, but it quieted the sound enough to confirm my suspicion of what to take off. It was a section that had a top and bottome piece that kinda wrapped around the pipe, and were bolted together at a couple points along the sides. I removed the bolts on one side (10mm nuts) then just manually bent/opened-up the whole thing and pushed it off the other side of the exhasut pipe. It would ne very difficult to remove the rusty bolts from the second side, once you've removed the bolts on the first side. (the piece wobbles around too much)

When the Highway opens and the snow melts!

The better version of Pitch 2 is to climb "undercover" (5.7) the obvious crack/roof thing that slants up to the right. Clip 2 bolts on slabby terrain directly above the zig-zag p. 1 anchor, then follow the Crack feature to the Sprinboard ledge. Then either do Springboard (best, 5.8) or the final pitch of zig-zag.

Thanks for all the advise, sounds like a common annoyance. I will report back with a full-on TR.

Maybe you better change the first pitch rating on your Gunsight route then Jim, because if that's a "5.7" I was definitely in over my head.

I don't know if that's the goal of the book's target market. Another climb that was upgraded (5.7->5.8) was "False Impressions" at the powerline wall. I've taken a bunch of first-time-ever climbers to Mt. Erie and everyone has been able to TR this route. That wouldn't happen with a 5.8 in Leavenworth or Squamish.

yeah, but i don't think these particular routes are undergraded at all. What I'm saying is, it seems to me that the book over-grades them because of the target market.

I've got a '97 Subaru outback that makes a rattle sound at certain RPM. I was told it was a loose heat shield. Google tells me that this is a very common problem for subarus, and that I should either just take off, modify, or pin back my heat shield so it wont rattle. The question is: where is the heat shield? I don't know what I'm looking for. The rattle sounds like it's coming from the passenger side of the engine only. I suppose I could just have someone listen/look around while the engine runs, but I'm sure someone on here knows enough to give me a little help. Thanks!

I looked at a new book called "Weekend Rock" the other day, and noticed, among the non-alpine pictures of AlpineDave and AlpinFox, that several routes I've done have gotten harder since I began climbing a couple years ago. At least 2 or 3 routes at Mt. Erie even got an upgrade from the new guidebook that came out just in the last couple years. Just for an example, Springboard went from 5.8 to 5.9R. Is this because the book is aimed at the very moderate crag climber who wont be climbing 5.10 anyways? It still seems weird to have such obvious grade jumps though.

too strong? how would they put any more force on the rock than a normal cam? that still seems like a function of climber's weight, fall factor, belay catch, etc. Your packs look pretty sweet on that same review Graham.

the red camalot was two raps below the dead snag. you wouldn't have climbed past it, only would have seen it if you rapped by it. Jason grabbed our pins and stopper.