Blake

I'm gonna be there this friday, I can show you the orange wall if you want to Choada.

Anyone know how many days of dryness it would take some place like 3 -0'clock rock to dry out?

I don't think the book is very good compared to a glossy guide. I think that is for a few reasons. Erie is a confusing place with many bad trails, many small nondescript walls, and Kloke is not an author or veteran guidebook writer. Basically, he has climbed out there more than anyone else, so put together a DIY cheap guide with basics of the area. Anyone can tell after 30seconds of browsing, that it is a very basic/amateur attempt. I doubt Kloke was aiming for anything more. His previous edition got shredded on accident by the printers, and I am sure he was frustrated and ready to be done with the project. If his personal morals bother you, then don't buy the book, or rip out those pages. I doubt he has the artistic skills to draw a great trail map, nor the money to hire a plane for aerial photos. If the book is not worth XXX dollars to you, then don't pay it but quit whining that it is available for purchase. If you are thinking about buying, be aware that it is more of a garage-project type of endeavor than a professional book like something from Falcon Press. Erie has seen heaps of new activity in the last few years, and once I can actually get to a wall, this guide seems to have all the beta I'd need. I don't blame Kloke/God/Choada_boy for the the shitty trail system or lack of signs. There must be a better use of your time though, than to complain online about if an 80yr old Anacortes man should make public his belief in God or not.

you need to work on those map reading skills. Lucerne on foot would be 34 miles from where you meet the trail. Holden Village would be 22. Stehekin road would be 9.(including a canyon that is currently unbridged)

I did that climb last monday (4/9) and it was not there then. However, I wish it had been! That's a fun route. I think there are only 4 bolts on the whole route, aren't there? How did you take a 50' fall onto the top one, if the top one is less than 25' from the end of the route? You should tell your story, in all it's slab-sliding cheese-grater details.

IS there still a metolius hex stuck at the crux?

Do they really need the word "rim" in the name of their gay-themed curling league?

Continue on through the hanging gardens to Image Lake, and hike down to Darrington. It's a pretty logical continuation and is an amazing area.

Come on guys, quit giving everyone step-by-step beta for anywhere in the mountains. Leave some mysteries in place. However, for anyone considering Agnes creek as an approach or deproach this summer, the solid frame trail bridge across Agnes Creeek Canyon was destroyed by a 200' fir tree this winter. Basically Agnes creek and the trail are uncrossable until repaired, and you can't make it to the Stehekin Road. If you made it down from the PT to this point, you'd be looking at a 30 mile hike over to Holden Village as your best option. Enjoy!

i think you were at the cirque or the sunset wall.

I always kinda considered it beneath the power line wall, then beneath the cirque as well. There are a couple worthwhile climbs at the cirque.

I'm with CBS. if you are using a daisy, just do an overhand knot in the webbing before the last loop. keep your biner always clipped in to the last loop and shorten up as needed.

I think the first pitch of Sagg is kinda a sandbag .10a, not 5.9. (that's up to the anchors above the awkward chimney and ringing flake, so maybe you meant stopping somewhere else.)

I want to go up and climb Yak Check this spring or summer when it dries off and melts out. Does anyone know typically when the route can be climbed, or have a guess for when things will melt out this year? Thanks!

I think i was at that particular pub club. Luke is doing his best vulture impression.

Oly, I think you cut off half of my picture in the scenic category. Here's a resized version of the whole thing: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/513/photo_scenic.JPG

Oh, that makes perfect sense. Still, I would hope that your belay anchor, under any reasonable situation, is able to handle 2x the follower's body weight easily.

This is so outrageous and hilarious. If it was already posted, its worth another listen. The school teachers that post on this site should play it for their classes. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gp0HyxQv97Q&eurl=

seemed about the same as Godzilla, Roger's corner, or other index .9s to us. Have fun.

Is it really the case that belaying a follower through a re-direct point above you will put more force on the anchor (if they hang) than just belaying straight off your harness?(assuming you come tight on the anchor while holding your second) If this is true, can someone explain why?

Add to the list, the last pitch of Burgundy Spire North face. There are at least two o/w options that end at the very top.

Yeah, but didn't you sorta "booty" those poles from the Lake chelan ferry?

not quite! actually, I just turned 21 today. no more sneaking into pub clubs for me!

I would not get in the habit of developing too many "rules" in climbing. Allow each situation to dictate the best course of action. Basically, connect yourself to the powerpoint using a daisy chain, a runner hitched to your harness, or the rope you are tied in to. Use two of the 3 if you want to be extra safe, and uselocking/opposed carabiners for the same reason. If you just led the pitch, and your partner will lead the next pitch, tying-in with the rope works well. If you are about to haul in all the extra rope, and then lead the next pitch, anchoring in with the rope means everything will be "upside-down". Why would you want to clip the rope into a random biner on the anchor like that, once you are off-belay on a daisy? Sure it's safe, but is there a reason? The only rationale I can imagine for merely clipping the rope through a spot on the anchor (rather than tying yourself off with it) is if the anchor is above you, you will be belaying a follower, and you don't want to have your belay device pulled downward if the 2nd hangs. Therefor you'd redirect the rope to a a point above you. This is for convenience and ease, not safety.

yeah, SS. Wholesome Fullback looks cool too, but after doing The Misunderstanding (****) nearby, we ran out of time. I think if your fingers are too fat for the crack (tight blue TCUs), then Straight shooter is harder than 5.9+ or whatever they call it. It seemed harder than Angel Crack to me, but Allison cruised it with her skinny digits.