Blake

Go out and look for yourself. You will find that in most cases, these "cracks" are problematic on one way or another for trad leading. It most cases, they are either weak flakes, offwidth flakes, laybacks, flares, etc. I'd have to say that in the case of The Javelin that most of those arguments don't fly. As a layback it is simply a lot easier to protect and they thought it would see a lot more traffic that way (bolted), which is true- 5.10- bolted, but 5.10+/5.11- on gear only. Gorilla my dreams is another example, although a more extreme one. It could be led on gear, but you'd need multiple big pieces (5-6") whereas Javelin could be led on a single set to 4". In answer to MCash's question, Ron Cotman did many of the routes at Clem's/Special Spot/Retardant Rock. I've got to call BS on that... several of those routes can be perfectly 100% safe to climb if 3 or 4 or 5 bolts were removed (although, like on Perils of Pauline, there were one or two necessary ones) Calling the Javelin .10+ or 5.11 if you had to place gear? Are you kidding Brian?

maybe PM Sobo on this site, it think he lives there.

Tim, you can fit a lot of junk food and cinnamon rolls in a hat like that. Good to have along on our next alpine adventure I think. Better bring it next week!

Equivocation thy name is Blake. So the goal post has changed…at least a bit. (From Safely to runout) I wonder specifically which bolts are by cracks on Perils that can be safely removed? How did you determine the climbability of Perils? Peter, I think if you re-read the above you will note that in both cases I said most (but not all) bolts on those routes could be removed without making the climb unsafe or runout. I never changed goalposts, I just think that bolts should only be on parts of the wall that don't feature solid cracks. Still wondering....I wonder specifically which bolts are by cracks on Perils that can be safely removed? How did you determine the climbability of Perils? So if the last bolt was the only bolt on Perils would it be runout or safe? I determined it by climbing Perils of Pauline. as far as I remember, all bolts before the crux bolt (so all but the last 2 or 3) were near pefect gear placements. Even the "crux" bolt could be chopped, though you'd have to pull the 5.11+ move with small a TCU/Alien/Nut near your feet.

Equivocation thy name is Blake. So the goal post has changed…at least a bit. (From Safely to runout) I wonder specifically which bolts are by cracks on Perils that can be safely removed? How did you determine the climbability of Perils? Peter, I think if you re-read the above you will note that in both cases I said most (but not all) bolts on those routes could be removed without making the climb unsafe or runout. I never changed goalposts, I just think that bolts should only be on parts of the wall that don't feature solid cracks.

There are tons of bolted climbs that are too hard or too "bold" for me, and Peter_Puget is right, Perils of Pauline with NO bolts would be rather runout. I just thought it was strange for so many climbs in a trad area to featured bolted cracks. I'm not trying to get recognized Tony, I'm surely not the first person to notice this.

As far as the Javelin, you can protect it very safely with a single set of cams up to a #4 camalot. The #4 goes in near the top, and as long as the flake didn't break in the event of a fall, you'd be fine. I didn't take issue with that top thin-flake-protecting bolt so much as all the other very useless bolts below. Even if the flake is not safe for pro, there should be only a couple bolts on there.

I was at some crags in Tumwater canyon yesterday for the first time (Clem's/Special spot/etc) and noticed lots of bolts right next to cracks. This is not a sport climbing area, and many of the routes required bringing gear along to protect parts of the climb anyways, so people really wont be up there with just QDs. Why are these bolts there, 1' or less from totally safe gear placements? Climbs like Gun Rack, the Javelin, Perils of Pauline, and a cfew others could safely be no-bolts, or with just one or two bolts near the top-out, past where cracks run out. I understand having two bolts at the top of the Javelin, to protect the thin/flexy flake, but all bolts below that were clipped while jamming hands in fingers in perfect splitter cracks!

I have heard that the update to the North Cascades guide was meant to be out this spring, so maybe not too much of a wait on that one...

cordellette are such a pain in the ass.... I think you almost h=always have a simpler solution.

cloudveil

Christchurch, Dunedin, or Wanaka, NZ.

I have taken a few lead falls on my camp XLH 95 (Victoria's secret lingerie harness) and it is actually more comfortable than an alpine bod. The 3oz camp harnesses are great for anything alpine, even difficult rock.

I'd like to see the bolt removed and the hole repaired, but I'd rather see it remain in its current state (usable) than smashed up, useless, and still there.

Here's some help Do you have a larger version?

$30 for the whisperlite?

Nice lisa, way to go. if you are at the Lib-Bell/Concord notch and want a few more pitches of climbing, the Rapple Grapple in Liberty Bell, or the West Face of Concord start there and are worth doing as well.

Jens... curious what makes you say that Seattle has more climbers per-capita than any other North American city? (and how Smith>Squish)

z-man bought them

My take on this: Washington's best multipitch trad route: Davis-Holland Lovin' arms at Index (with Dodd's linkup at Beacon a close 2nd) Washington's finest trad climbing: Index's Lower Town Wall Washington's finest granite sport or face climbing-Leavenworth's Nason ridge (It ain't gneiss). Washington's finest alpine rock route: NR Stuart, West Face Gunsight Washington's best bouldering (defined as having the most areas that are clean, with good rock): Leavenworth (various-spread out) Washington's finest ice climb: Leavenworth's Drury Falls Washington's finest individual trad pitch: Complete Thin Fingers -Index Washington's most historical rock route: Leavenworth's Midway

Amazing accomplishment Lowell, very inspiring!

it seems like for most of the times when you'd use these crampons, you are going to put them on a tennis shoes or trail runner or light hiking boot, not something with a front welt and back crampon attachment point. If that is the case, then you want something with a universal attachment, meaning those grivels and CAMP ones would not work. What's the point in savings 3 ounces of crampon weight if you have to wear or carry big clunky boots that weigh a pound more than some nice trail running shoes?

get the stubai or camp ones

do I just write a letter and request a closer-to-home court date, or is there some formal way to do this?

It was on a 2-lane part of hwy 20. He never asked "do you know why I stopped you" and I never admitted it. How would I go about requesting a deferral or dismissal?