Blake

it's in Selected Climbs

well, from the east, hwy is gated near Mazama, so you have some skiing in to get up near the base of the mountain.

I want to know the story on how you got in a body brace and all that.

These things look kinda like aliens, with a few tweaks to them. I hope someone sell them! Totem Cam At first glance, you’re not sure what to think of this smart little unit, but after reading the specs and taking a closer look, you become intrigued. It looks like a cam and acts like a cam, but its got some weird features that make it function completely different from a standard cam. The cam works like a regular cam in most instances, but its unique clip in points where the trigger is allow it to do some different things when placements start to get dicey. For instance, if you can only get two lobes in, no problem, just clip into one side of the cam- then the other two lobes don’t get loaded if you take the whip. Wicked large flare? Place one of these guys- they’ll protect a 31 degree flare. The downside? They’re not available anywhere- the ones pictured here are the only ones in existence. From the SLC outdoor retailer expo this weekend.

Nice guys, way to get on it. That third shot is a good one, things look icier (or at least more consolidated) than the conspicuous fluff of 2 weeks ago. This bit is steeper than it looks, and he's defintely not running it out by choice.

It was T-shirt weather at Erie today.

not to bag on your idea, but how's that better than a whippet that you can buy without tieing up all tht gear? Grivel also makes a ski pole add-on that seems like the same thing.

i'll climb at erie with you, i can be there at noon. send an email. -Blake

we just need some software so that every time john goes overboard on the smiley face icons, use of the words Kids, d00d, turds, or little bitches, it wont let him submit his post.

i am gonna be at ERie on Saturday. Probably the main wall. shoot me and email. I have a green subaru and will be with some female climbers. give a holler. so far there are three of us, so a 4th would be great.

this

can someone explain the difference between self belay and self arrst grips? When i am on steep snow, and holding my axe, and don't want to fall, I just hold the top of the head, with the pick pointing back. Whether i am plunging it into the snow, stepping, and then repeating it, or merely using it as a wlaking stick type thingy for "just in case I slip."

Well, the worm flows, which is the standard ski route, begins and ends there, and i don't think you can even drive to climber's bivuac when it is snowy. I'm not saying it's impossible to climb/ski the summer route in winter, but the concventional wisdom is to drive the plowed road to the Marble Mtn snow park.

permission from whom, the wifey, or the NPS?

3 make sure to go to the southern (worm flows/swift creek) parking area, not the standard summer (climber's bivy) area. Enjoy the skiing.

not any more. sorry! it said i can't pm you either.

Anyone want to climb at Index on Sunday? Ignore those alpine tendencies, they will only result in cold and frustration. I can drive if you are coming from B-ham, or we can meet in Everett and carpool from there. Upper or Lower town wall, whatever is dry. (should be nice and sunny!) -Blake

Zorbing is overpriced and not worth it. Blackwater rafting was very cool. I would skip out on the miford (rainy, crowded, overdone), and instead do the Routburn, Reese-Dart, or Copland Pass Tracks. Check out web resources for Copland Bass or Ball Pass crossing, both near Mt. Cook National Park. The only moderately reliable weather site for NZ is http://www.metvuw.com/ And if you are flying into and out of Aukland, make sure to visit the Cormandel Penninsula. It is only about 2 hours to the east of Aukland, and has amazing tropical beaches and beachside climbing. Places to see there Cathedral Cove, Hot Water Beach, and climbing above the white sands of Te Ananui http://www.mojozone.co.nz/climbing-location/te-ananui and at the upper end of the Penninsula, multipitch routes http://www.mountainz.co.nz/content/article/article.php?article=160704_castlerockupdate.php&direct=nz

Maybe something like the North Ridge of Baker, or one of the routes on Shuksan? North Face of Hood?

Go to the South Island. The North Island is more cow fields than anything else. That time of year, spring will be sprung, but lambing season is over, so public access will be available again. On the South Island, check out Payne's Ford near Takaka. There's a campground there (Hangdog) and its right next to the beutiful tropical coast (hiking/kayaking) of the Abel Tasman NAtional Park. You could get belays there no problem, it's bolted limestone sport. Further south along the coast, there is *** Trad climbing right along the coast in Charlston, but you would likely need to pre-arrange a partner for that, although the setting and quality of routes are superb. In terms of other places you could go and just meet people, Christshurch has over a dozen crags with 20 or 30 minutes of town... The ones along the top of the port hills are good, and have nearby tracks fo mt. biking, running, and sight-seeing. If the weather is good in Wanaka, then there are thousands of routes there, from 1-3 pitches in length. This is kinda in the mid-central part of the SI, and near Queenstown. Definitely an active/adventury/outdoors town, you could likely find partners there too. Lastly, the town of Dunedin, about 4 hrs South of Christchurch along the east coast, boasts 4 really cool crags within 20 mins of town, everything from really hard trad to easy bolted stuff. If you are going to Dunedin, shoot me an email and i can give you 3 or 4 emails of local climbers who would take you out. If you get a guide, get "Rock Deluxe" rather than "South Island Rock." For Partners, check out www.mojozone.co.nz It's the best there is, but it aint great. Crags are never crowded there. P.S. if you are in to bouldering, Castle hill is 45 mins West fo ChCh and is one of the best locations on the globe. There is a little sport climbing there as well, and it's a cool enough setting to keep a non-climber entertained for the day. -Blake

Looks rad David. Need a partner next year?

This looks like the top out on Dierdra (sic). Right, Said Fred

Except I'd leave the picket behind and bring a an appetite for healthy runouts. Keep your eyes open for some booty too.

Jens, I can go/drive if you can get yourself to B-ham.

Taral, check out the Ice climbing forum and look for reports on conditions or climbs in the leavenworth/icicle canyon area. send private messages or emails to those people.