Blake

I found some stuff with the initial S.L.B. on it, and I'm wondering who it might belong to. It wasn't on the Gith Pillar... and that joke ceased being funny a while ago. Serious input is appreciated. Cheers!

Very good point, I bet that those first anchors on Roger's Corner were used about 1/10 as much the JG anchors were. I wonder why those weren't chopped?

The only gym I have ever been to is the on-campus one at WWU, but is it unusual to climbing harder routes outside than inside? I onsight trad routes that are rated harder than gym climbs I can't even do on TR after hanging a bunch. The discrepancy is probably 3-4 letter grades. I have this same pattern with face climbs on real rock vs plastic. Is this totally backwards from most people?

Isn't that what they call Bungie Jumping? No, they call it the Wayne Wallace specialty.

If yanking out silly non-pitch-ending anchors is the goal, wouldn't Sagitarius prove a better candidate than JG? Those anchors on JG were at a standing ledge, just below where the climbing got way harder. Most index climbers can do .10a, but not the .11+ of the above part. However, some of those midpoint anchors on Sagitarius seem much less usefull.

that's a fun climb!

It's been an average to high snow year. I would expect post-holing and soft snow in the next few weeks. People who have been out lately have noted lots of fresh snow falling as well (although above the approach elevation for Shuksan.) Your bus trip website is awesome, welcome to cc.com!

Joseph, make yourself jam the cracks at beacon like Dodd's. Or else, take a road trip to Squamish or Index or somewhere else where you absolutely must jam. Basically if you want to learn to jam, quit laybacking routes that are classic straight-in jamming climbs. Sure it will feel tougher at first, but that's why it is part of learning.

How would any nut ever work in a flared crack? You still need some constriction.

Please move to events forum: On thursday 4/26 at 8pm, Micah Dash is showing pictures and telling stories about climbing all around the world, from Yosemite to Pakistan. The presentation is free. Bellingham WWU Campus Fraser 4 Northeast corner of Red Square See everyone there!

it's up the Squire Creek Trail toward three fingers.

thanks for voting for my photos if you did. They are a product of the shotgun style of photography, take enough pics and some will be good. Evidentally I win some prizes now?

i'm going to be at mt erie. Powerline wall-orange wall area. call 425 442 6321 if you are coming up.

I agree Jens, it looks like the water must have flowed uphill crested the pass, and came over this side. sometimes perspectives can be tricky though...

I'd say that on the final two pitches, keep your eye out for door-knob shaped chickenheads you can hitch, and protect with them. It'll help you save your cams for later on, plus it's just a fun thing to do, and one of the route's more unique elements.

I'm gonna be there this friday, I can show you the orange wall if you want to Choada.

Anyone know how many days of dryness it would take some place like 3 -0'clock rock to dry out?

I don't think the book is very good compared to a glossy guide. I think that is for a few reasons. Erie is a confusing place with many bad trails, many small nondescript walls, and Kloke is not an author or veteran guidebook writer. Basically, he has climbed out there more than anyone else, so put together a DIY cheap guide with basics of the area. Anyone can tell after 30seconds of browsing, that it is a very basic/amateur attempt. I doubt Kloke was aiming for anything more. His previous edition got shredded on accident by the printers, and I am sure he was frustrated and ready to be done with the project. If his personal morals bother you, then don't buy the book, or rip out those pages. I doubt he has the artistic skills to draw a great trail map, nor the money to hire a plane for aerial photos. If the book is not worth XXX dollars to you, then don't pay it but quit whining that it is available for purchase. If you are thinking about buying, be aware that it is more of a garage-project type of endeavor than a professional book like something from Falcon Press. Erie has seen heaps of new activity in the last few years, and once I can actually get to a wall, this guide seems to have all the beta I'd need. I don't blame Kloke/God/Choada_boy for the the shitty trail system or lack of signs. There must be a better use of your time though, than to complain online about if an 80yr old Anacortes man should make public his belief in God or not.

you need to work on those map reading skills. Lucerne on foot would be 34 miles from where you meet the trail. Holden Village would be 22. Stehekin road would be 9.(including a canyon that is currently unbridged)

I did that climb last monday (4/9) and it was not there then. However, I wish it had been! That's a fun route. I think there are only 4 bolts on the whole route, aren't there? How did you take a 50' fall onto the top one, if the top one is less than 25' from the end of the route? You should tell your story, in all it's slab-sliding cheese-grater details.

IS there still a metolius hex stuck at the crux?

Do they really need the word "rim" in the name of their gay-themed curling league?

Continue on through the hanging gardens to Image Lake, and hike down to Darrington. It's a pretty logical continuation and is an amazing area.

Come on guys, quit giving everyone step-by-step beta for anywhere in the mountains. Leave some mysteries in place. However, for anyone considering Agnes creek as an approach or deproach this summer, the solid frame trail bridge across Agnes Creeek Canyon was destroyed by a 200' fir tree this winter. Basically Agnes creek and the trail are uncrossable until repaired, and you can't make it to the Stehekin Road. If you made it down from the PT to this point, you'd be looking at a 30 mile hike over to Holden Village as your best option. Enjoy!

i think you were at the cirque or the sunset wall.