Blake

Best pic of the trip: I was impressed with the diversity of climbing in RR. Everything from splitter cracks to long moderate face climbs. Thanks to LanceGranite for hosting us, and DBerdinka for the hike idea.

yeah, mike is confusing Snow and Storm Kings. Snowking would be a good answer to the original Question. Storm King would not.

I have a couch you can stay on a few nights a month. email me.

I meant the crack looming above John's head.

W. Face of Gunsight

Over the last week I ended up with a $100 credit for Allegiant Air, a small airline that flies to Las Vegas and Palm Springs from Bellingham and Tri-Cities. I don't think I'll be able to use it within the next year. If anyone is flying south to some warm climbing, let me know and you can use my $100 credit toward your ticket. I would like to end up with something out of the deal though, so if you are going, maybe we could work out something where you pay $75 for the $100 off coupon? -Blake

I just saw that half of North Carolina was being overrun by infra-red helicopters, army searchers, and rednecks on SUVs. All because a boyscout got homesick and wandered off into the woods. I'm not saying that it was a waste of time and resources to look for him, I just think it is ridiculous that all kinds of groups, clubs, and activities lead to large expensive rescue operations. Why are climbers suddenly everyone's scapegoat and legislative target? http://www.news10.net/display_story.aspx?storyid=25677

Just for the head's up, the ones with curved handles and aggressive picks for technical climbs are "ice Tools" not ice axes. I have those Grivel Ta-Ka-Oons you are looking at. You can borrow them if you want to, but its not really ice season right now.

Better than almost getting killed by a weTa.

In the Bugs, is there chickenwire laying around the parking lot, or must you supply it yourself?>

Here's the weirdest thing: They were in an "emergency/rescue" situation, and they abandoned a bunch of gear! What kind of stuff did they bring along with them that was more useful laying on the snow than helping them keep warm/survive? If you were hunkering down, injured, in a storm for who-knows-how-long, would you just ditch a bunch of your gear? If it was that useless, why bring it?

stick with the jacket you own! your down will be lighter and more compressible, which are your two concerns. If it rainy, you wont be climbing technical rock anyways. Down is the best choice for cascades summer trips. On trips like that in the summer in the cascades, I take a t-shirt, a long sleeve poly-pro type shirt, and then a light down jacket. Early morning belays, windy ridges, just throw that thing on and you'll be warm enough. If it looks like maybe rain, I'll throw in a light rain jacket to the pack as well. If it is steadily raining, you are probably going to be hiking (back to the car). If it's warm enough to rain and you are moving, you wont want to be wearing an insulated jacket. Basically, insualted jackets are worn in the summer when you are not moving. This would be during belays, or lounging around camp outside the tent. You likely wouldn't be doing either of these things during a prolonged rain. Don't waste your money on more gear when what you have is what you need.

What's the first pitch of the regualar route at Careno? I remember it feeling difficult for the grade and I definitely plan out my the moves right.

If anyone wants to have the Silver Skis day this year, I'd be interested.

i'll be there the next week. (25-3rd)

High Five! That sucks about some of the cold-weather problems, but on the bright side, maybe it's better to get those things figured out now and be more ready for similar conditions in Pakistan this summer.

I actually think MissNormandy is a real person who went to my high school.

Miss Normandy...

John, i think if you are mainly tracking how you change over time, then the model matters less than should you want an absolute accurate number.

You said all your issues were due to not enough calories on you trips in the mountains. Well, eating more high-fat foods like cheese and sausage will help that. There's a practical reason most alpinists take along fatty foods... lots of calories for the weight!

no longer... update on the climb and bolts in case any stumbles across this thread. http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=563718&an=&page=

Joseph, you spend dozens of days each year at beacon rock, and live within a day trip of Trout Creek. Why would you build a crack machine... go hop on the real thing and make yourself jam.

A few weeks ago I took the old Jansport pack I had bought for backpacking in 8th grade, and returned it. It had a totally destroyed zipper, and I had overdried/melted part of it after an August snowstorm with John Frieh and Craig Gyselinck. I mailed the pack to Jansport's address in Everett and Jansport soon sent me back a completely new Pack that is lighter and snazier than my old one! I'm not saying Jansport is the greatest tecnical pack designer out there, but you can't beat that warranty and service.

i would recomend increased intake of sausage, cheese, and if you can, cinnamon rolls.... on all upcoming mountain trips. However, the Mike Layton alpine diet of Cigrettes and Whiskey has proven fairly successful for him!

if you can't get the book, check out the mt erie entry on www.summitpost.org The powerline wall is a good first-time spot.