Rad

What's the point of putting up routes if you won't let others climb them?

That red van is a pimpin ride. Needs a custom paintjob of eagles and lakes, though. I know a place in Darrington...

Amen! More TRs, regardless or quality and content, is a good thing IMHO.

Gear review without links to buy the gear? That would be silly. I am glad to hear Colin is getting some $ for this. He clearly worked hard to put that piece together and it's very professional. Way to go CC for helping support our local hero!

I look forward to the answer. It would probably be helpful to know their history and have a hammer to test them. When I clip pitons I only mentally count them as half a piece or less.

Goddard and Neumann's "Performance Rock Climbing" is an excellent book IMHO. It spends a lot of time on mental and psychological aspects of climbing, but also talks about technique and training. You can get it used off Amazon pretty cheap.

Great pics and TR. I'll put that on the list for next year. Still hoping to get to Slesse in a few weeks...

I've watched the Sharma video several times. I find it inspiring on several levels. Couldn't get the Graham video link to work. There is no substitute for hard work and perseverance.

I agree with Lizard. The first time I descended Stuart we went down those upper slabs farther down the ridge line. We ended up downclimbing past rap stations and scrambling down dirty 4th class to snow. I will not do that again. Last time we dropped off the shoulder/false summit very high and that was much better. Creek crossing is a non-issue. You will welcome the water at that point!

2 years ago Gene and I walked in via the Sharkfin col. The Boston glacier might be easy to traverse in early season, but by now it will be a gigantic maze of crevasses.

Has the french lab cleared you of any doping concerns? If not, Floyd may have a lawyer for you...

Baptized by the Pickets! One can only imagine the mental state when the decision was made to ditch the pack...I am glad you both made it out safely. My Pickets trip of 03 is still the most amazing and challenging climbing trip I've done. Suffering is underrated.

Hey Boss, Can you tell us why the diet thread isn't in fitness?

January 19th, 2009 (when the admin changes over).

Now picking jaw up off floor...

Does Burdo post on this site? Why not ask him directly?

My question is about the Pocket Glacier. Still hanging in there?

Nice pics. The ambience makes up for the mediocre rock climbing quality on this one. I don't have my map handy, but we drove on an old logging road up the canyon to the East for the approach. From the car you have about 20-30 minutes of easy off trail travel to reach the PCT on the crest of the ridge. This shaves off about 2.5 miles and possibly 1500 feet of elevation on either end of your day, saving the knees. Perhaps somebody more handy than me can post a map with lines to illustrate. My Topo disc #3 is AWOL Definitely doable as a day trip.

Nice work CBS. Sounds like a fun trip. The lower NR is worth putting on your list as it has some excellent climbing too. Cheers, Rad

Hey guys, Maybe you should report your incident and self-rescue to the NPS. In this case, your self rescue saved lots of money, headaches, and hazards. Perhaps this good story should get out. Just a thought...

Perhaps only those who freesolo 5.10 are you peers (insert kow tow emoticon). That does not, however, plug the holes in logic-lacking arguments that leak like sieves and flip flop like flapjacks.

Perhaps only those who freesolo 5.10 are you peers (insert kow tow emoticon). That does not, however, plug the holes in logic-lacking arguments that leak like sieves and flip flop like flapjacks.

In America we have two annoying mindsets: 1 - When things go wrong many Americans blame everything except themselves (coffee burns lip = blame vendor, child fails class = blame teacher, kid shoots peers = blame video games). Couple this with our legal system and you get people who sue McD because coffee is hot. This seems to feed our second mentality: 2 - Many Americans seem to believe the government has the right to decide what level of personal risk is acceptable for its citizens to assume. (Laws for motorcycle helmets, car seatbelts, carseats, marijuana....let's not forget MLUs on Mt Hood!). In other places (like Stolby?) you don't see this combination. To illustrate, consider the next time you visit a cliff or waterfall in a popular area. In the US you will see railings and warning signs. Go to a similar setting in Australia or NZ or elsewhere and often you don't see those things. Why? It is presumed that if you do something stupid it is your own damn fault and not the park's fault. If you were to try to sue the park the judge would throw your case out the window. The blame game is deeply disturbing to me, but I don't have any solutions to propose other than reforming the legal system to remove financial incentives...

Pile of choss with great Picket views, or is the climbing better than it looks?

Nice. Topo link doesn't work for me either, and this looks like a good one to add to the list. Can you photograph the topo and put it in the gallery (and in the thread)?