Rad

Perhaps only those who freesolo 5.10 are you peers (insert kow tow emoticon). That does not, however, plug the holes in logic-lacking arguments that leak like sieves and flip flop like flapjacks.

Perhaps only those who freesolo 5.10 are you peers (insert kow tow emoticon). That does not, however, plug the holes in logic-lacking arguments that leak like sieves and flip flop like flapjacks.

In America we have two annoying mindsets: 1 - When things go wrong many Americans blame everything except themselves (coffee burns lip = blame vendor, child fails class = blame teacher, kid shoots peers = blame video games). Couple this with our legal system and you get people who sue McD because coffee is hot. This seems to feed our second mentality: 2 - Many Americans seem to believe the government has the right to decide what level of personal risk is acceptable for its citizens to assume. (Laws for motorcycle helmets, car seatbelts, carseats, marijuana....let's not forget MLUs on Mt Hood!). In other places (like Stolby?) you don't see this combination. To illustrate, consider the next time you visit a cliff or waterfall in a popular area. In the US you will see railings and warning signs. Go to a similar setting in Australia or NZ or elsewhere and often you don't see those things. Why? It is presumed that if you do something stupid it is your own damn fault and not the park's fault. If you were to try to sue the park the judge would throw your case out the window. The blame game is deeply disturbing to me, but I don't have any solutions to propose other than reforming the legal system to remove financial incentives...

Pile of choss with great Picket views, or is the climbing better than it looks?

Nice. Topo link doesn't work for me either, and this looks like a good one to add to the list. Can you photograph the topo and put it in the gallery (and in the thread)?

Sounds like you almost re-enacted the Sharkfin accident. I am glad the outcome was much better for you. Good job keeping your wits about you and getting out safely!

Saturday I found a red Samsung T-mobile phone on a log in the talus E of Eastern Block. Battery is dead so I can't call your friends to ask who owns it, and I don't have a charger that works. Send me a pm and I'll give it to you.

Most excellent. If someone wants a definition of alpine this is it!

mmmm....monopolistic maniac making melodic morality messages...mmm where's the music button for threads?

Uh oh. My hidden agenda is revealed!

There are lots of other interesting and controversial topics out there. Why does this one uncork the spray hose like none other? Perhaps there could be a separate forum for bolt spray. That way those of us who enjoy reading TRs, swapping climbing stories, sharing info, meeting like-minded people, and generally transporting ourselves into the realm of climbing when our bodies are stuck in civilizaion won't have to wade through the annoying, predictable bolt spray. Food for thought...

Um, hello. This is the internet, where Nigerian cons extract money from grandma and middle-aged men lure teen girls to be raped if they don't get nabbed by Dateline first. CC is tame by comparison, so toughen up or go back to the shopping channel. Some CCers post under a real name, some post with a fake name. Sometimes they have good things to post sometimes not. From what I see, there is not much of a correlation between handle type and post quality. btw, my name really is like totally Rad, DUDE!

Sweet. Looks harder than V1, but then who cares what the rating is? It is what it is...

The forecast calls for chilly reception and Raindawg.

It is important to realize that when you go solo you are not just putting yourself at risk, you are putting your would-be rescuers at risk as well. People can and do die on Rainier all times of year. People can and do safely solo routes on Rainier all times of year. If you played glacier roulette twice and won that doesn't mean you'll be lucky a third time. Training may increase your chances of success each time out, and skilled partners greatly increase the liklihood you'll survive when you eventually do fall in a crevasse, which can happen to even the most seasoned veterans.

Beautiful! Regarding red streaks, it looks like a natural mineral deposit. Paint or fire retardant seems very unlikely. Iron oxides perhaps? Pink feldspar? Look at the rock you are standing on on Feather. Was it crystals? That may provide the best clue. Any geologists?

"What a lucky man to see the earth before it touched his hand" Neil Young.

There will be a shockload if one piece fails, but this concern about breaking the carabiner doesn't sound very credible. I use the X from time to time (including last weekend). If you find solid data please post. Thanks.

Super! Look forward to more updates.

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Next step: chopper to the glacier. Pack the cooler!

Attention all planets of the solar federation! Attention all planets of the solar federation! WE HAVE ASSUMED CONTROL... WE HAVE ASSUMED CONTROL... WE HAVE ASSUMED CONTROL...

I climbed in MA and CT for a few years. Chopping bolts was only one mode of destructive protest by Nichols. I will be surprised if he stays clean during his probation.

OK. I haven't pulled mine yet, but I hear this is a fairly common (and serious) injury when people start ramping up the training. If you tore yours what happened? What would you have done differently? I am stressing everything more these days (weighted pullups and climbing, dynamic bouldering, harder (for me) redpoints) but am also trying to take basic precautions (rest days, stretching, no single-digit work, no campus boards). Advice appreciated. Thanks.

I used to have tiblocs and cord on my harness all the time but I removed them at some point. I will put them back now. Thanks for posting!