Rad

Maybe someone mentioned this already, but this morning around 7:20am NPR ran a 30 second note about how we may be headed for record snow levels this year. On the plus side, they noted, is more water for drinking and hydro power and salmon. The downside has been increased avalanche hazards. They suggested staying in bounds at ski resorts, getting some avalanche training before heading into the backcountry, and avoiding steep open slopes if you must go. I'm not remembering the details as my brain was only operating at 30% power, but it seemed short and sensible.

Climb some cool stuff with great partners. Perhaps my first sport 5.12a. Metamorphosis FA (developed last fall but not completed due to rain). And hopefully this in the spring: Maybe something like this in the late summer:

Sit on Santa's lap and ask sweetly.

Other factors: Hood is close to a major metro area with quick access for the local fleet of media helicopters. The mtn is an iconic image that many americans know. Neither is true for Crystal.

After a few bonks on really long days I learned I need to eat throughout the day. Like a clif bar or more every hour. I've had no more bonks. Choose something with a mix of fat, protein and sugar for long, medium, and near-term energy. Hydration, including electrolyte replacement, is key too.

Is someone on the sausage thing for 08? How about earlier this year - like late January or early February? I'd be glad to help. It's too wet to climb rock, to dry to snowboard, and I need inspiration to get strong for next season so bring on the stoke! ps. Have I broken some rule of quantum mechanics by quoting myself? Any minute now I'll collide with my own antimatter and be obliterated.

Excellent adventure! Thanks for posting.

Amen.

I completed a few new lines last year, and the best one was only ready for leading in September. In this land of moss and choss, route development can be hard work. It took many days, spread over nearly a whole summer, to scope, rap, clean, TR to find the best line, and work out a way to protect it with a combination of gear and bolts. It's got great climbing in a stunning position within an hour of Seattle. Alas, I didn't get an opportunity to try to send this route before the rain started dumping so it will have to wait until spring. Is it mine, mine, mine and you can't try it until I give you permission? I think not. Should I draw you a map so you can make the FA before I get a crack at it? I think not. Will I be heart-broken if I fail on a few redpoint attempts and one of my climbing partners sends it first? I think not. Should that person be listed as the FA and my contribution not be recognized? I think not. Converting a vision into something people will climb, enjoy, and find inspiring for years to come is what I strive to achieve in developing new routes. The FA is less important, in my view than the creation.

Amen. I used to think improving was mainly about getting stronger, with some mental training on the side. I've since come around to the idea that the greatest gains come from mental training (even if only to gain the discipline to stick with your chosed workout scheme).

Performance Rock Climbing - Goddard and Neumann.

Well, it certainly left him with demons that haunted him for nearly forty years until he could vanquish them on the big screen for the benefit of his adoring fans. Still can't get over the wife being helicopter short-roped straight from summit to backyard family hug. Ugh!

Well said Bill. For me, it all comes down to consequences. A 50 footer on a slab at Darrington while wearing a helmet? I'll take that risk, whimpering, from time to time. Solo glacier travel where a crevasse fall means certain death? I won't take that risk. Everyone finds their own balance point.

This is something all fathers on this board, and there are many, have wrestled with internally. Ultimately, each must make his own choices. For me, coming back in one piece is imperative, but what would be the point of climbing if all risk and uncertainty were removed? Regarding some comments above, I disagree with the suggestion that 'hard' rock climbing is more dangerous than easy rock climbing. I would argue that the opposite is true. Look at accidents over the past few years in the Northwest and you'll find that most cases involve inexperienced people getting badly hurt or killed on easy (4th-low-fifth class) terrain. Someone else can chime in with statistics, but accidents in North America and Yosemite almost always boil down to one of two things: bad judgment (e.g. rapped off rope end) and/or bad luck (e.g. rockfall or avalanche). In many cases, good judgment can reduce the 'bad luck' events as well (learn to read weather and alpine terrain, know how to retreat, know how to climb gingerly in the alpine, carry the right gear, and have experience getting out of jams). I would suggest that 'hard' rock climbing (say 5.10 and up), including alpine trad, is usually quite safe. I suspect this is largely because these climbers are more experienced and make better decisions than newbies and the routes are steeper and may be less prone to rockfall. Regarding trad vs sport, RUMR has suggested, and I agree, that well-placed trad gear on non-runout routes is pretty much as safe as bolts. In fact, trad leaders are more likely to think strategically about protecting themselves than those who blindly clip and go. In sum, safety is born out of good judgment, which usually comes from extensive experience. That's my rationalization anyway... OK, now back to work so I can get to the gym and then get the kids from daycare

Fingerboard vs spring loaded gripper doodad: which do you favor and why? Please post links to your favorite cuz Santa is coming!!!

Cool Libecki piece on Nightline

Trog, Your retribution is still possible. Lead the climb on gear and skip the bolts. Style is a state of mind. R

Shotguns ok. Rifles not ok.

I had a class 3 separation a few years back. PT definitely helped with Rehab. I could climb again pretty quickly but it was a year before I could do regular pushups. You should be back to 100% pretty quick with class 1.

OK, I read the article. It is certainly cast in a negative light, which is what people like to read in the rags. Climbers work with park staff to collect and remove tons of trash. A climbing ranger works to educate noobs about how to protect the environment while they climb. Climbing areas developing plans to protect their resources from overuse and abuse. Those sound like good things. The quotes and story are just plain stupid. Not a quality piece.

Actually, I was at the base of El Cap last weekend and came across a paper bag. Thinking it was just trash I looked inside. Poop. Yuck. BTW, why are those guys putting on their harnesses at the trailhead?

Yep. Belaying is often like fishing. You should be able to feel what the leader is doing on the other end even if you are looking at the view or taking a swig of water.

Remeber the KISS acronym? I agree with MattP. The standard I learned was: Slack (let out rope). Up-rope (take up rope). Off/on belay. One reason to stick with those is that in many circumstances you can't hear each other very well. Then the number of syllables tells you what to do: Blah! = slack, Blah blah! = up-rope. Blah Blah Blah = on/off belay (confirm before taking climber off belay). If you can easily hear each other then do whatever you want, but talk about it beforehand to avoid confusion.

Hormones: Make wasps angry. Make CC posters engage in mock battles over perceptions of their waning sexual prowess. Move along...

My best bee story, in short form: my dad and I were in Argentina moving a colony of killer bees (african race of the common honey bee Apis melifera). These bees are called 'killer bees' because they are very mean-tempered. They are no more poisonous than regular honey bees, but where 10-20 regular honey bees might sting you if you disturb their nest, 100-200 or more 'killer bees' will chase and sting you. It is the sheer volume of poison that gets you. But, I digress - We were told by scientists in the University in Tucuman that they had carefully sealed up the hive the night before. We didn't really trust them so we donned head-to-toe suits just in case. After loading the hive into the back seat of our Ford Falcon, we drove down the main drag toward the mountains. Sure enough, bees started to come out of the hive, a few at first then more and more. Soon there was a cloud of angry bees in the car with us so we rolled down the windows. Usually, young boys would come up to try to sell you bags of oranges at every stoplight on the strip, but they didn't come near us - crazy gringos in space suits surrounded by a swarm of angry bees - who could blame them?! Twas quite a trip.