Rad

Gun rack would definitely be a fun lead on gear as you'd have to hang from the lip to place gear in the upper crack.

Ok, so we were 'developing' routes, attempting to clean and protect natural lines, as you suggest, not setting them as in a gym. To suggest that bolts draw crowds that create all the other impacts I mentioned is oversimplistic. Trad routes can draw crowds and have environmental impacts as well. Witness pin scars, fixed nuts and other gear, chopped vegetation, and trash on popular crack climbs, not to mention scads of people and trail erosion on classics like Outer Space. If you've been to popular sandstone crags you have probably seen grooves from extensive rappelling and toproping. Another impact I forgot to mention: trash and human waste. If you want to get a bee in your bonnet for a good cause how about getting a port-o-potty for Index town wall?

Raindawg et al, If you are truly concerned about preserving the natural state of the rock then you must consider several ways climbing can have an environmental impact: 1 - Bolts leave manmade materials behind and permanently alter a small section of rock (about one square inch per bolt, or only a few square milimeters if the bolt is removed and the hole is filled). This impact does not depend on whether bolts are placed on rappel or on lead or drilled by hand or with a powertool. 2 - Pitons have same impact as bolts, although the damage they inflict on cracks cannot be reversed and is more variable than bolts. If you think pitons have no permanent impact on cracks go climb in Yosemite, where some routes are climbed primarily via jams in pin scars. 3 - Anchors usually leave more manmade material behind than bolts or pins. They may involve chains and/or large quantities of nylon slings. When trees are used as anchors on high-use routes, they are often severely damaged. This is why many support the use of bolt anchors on popular routes. 4 - Many routes require cleaning before they are safe for mass consumption. The amount of cleaning will vary, but often involves removing vegetation and loose rock. Even areas that seem to require little cleaning are impacted by traffic. Case in point: finding most climbs in Leavenworth is simply a matter of finding the lichen-free stripes running up the cliffs. These are seen from a great distance, from which bolts are invisible. 5 - Trails, and all of their features, whether built through concerted effort or simply worn in by human traffic, can have a large impact on the landscape. In my limited experience as a fledgling route-setter working at an area where bolts are already the standard, I can tell you that the relative impact of the items mentioned above is 5 > 4 >> 3 > 1. From the wilderness and alpine routes I've climbed, I would say that their relative impact is 5 > 4 >> 3 > 2 = 1. Thus, with regard to environmental impact, your obsession with bolts seems to be misplaced and is perhaps driven by your view that sport climbing has unacceptably reduced the risks of climbing. If you could separate the environmental impact issues from your views on sport climbing style you might assemble and articulate a more compelling argument. Good luck with that. Cheers, Rad

I agree completely. If you get nervous do your best starfish impression, activate your MLU, and wait for the chopper and TV cameras.

I heard that Bryan Burdo has one or two new guide books coming out soon. Does anyone know the scoop?

Thanks for posting. Your photos illustrate why sometimes it's good to have a helmet even if you plan to be unroped. Keep exploring!

Kaleetan S ridge is fun w/a little 3rd classing. Snoqualmie peak is good via the trail that runs directly up from the Alpental lot, but I have not been on it early in the season when it is snow-covered. Farther afield try Del Campo, Vesper, Baring, Daniel. Have fun.

Congrats, and thanks for posting a TR. This site could use more TRs and less spray. Cheers, Rad

"(BTW Rad, how much did ya get for the kidney?)" I got enough from the deal to quit my day job and sit around rural Canada posting 45,000 times on CC!

I bear some responsibility for Mythosgrl's injury as I encouraged her to lead the 5.9 climb in question and was belaying her when she fell. It was basically just bad luck. She has since gone on to greater things!

I bear some responsibility for Mythosgrl's injury as I encouraged her to lead the 5.9 climb in question and was belaying her when she fell. It was basically just bad luck. She has since gone on to greater things!

Tape is aid - like BAND-AID! Try it sometime, everyone's doing it

Vesper rocks, and you can link it with Sperry pretty easily. The following are excellent workouts with a little 3rd or 4th class and some great views at the top: Kaleetan (S ridge). Baring. Del Campo.

There goes my last excuse for not doing it, and my onsight! Thanks. ........... "RE Steepstreet: The new start is pretty cool. The undercling is bomber and fun. The move out left after clipping felt a bit harder than I remember though, as you can no longer get a good right foot."

BTW, has anyone climbed Steep Street since that huge block fell off? It looks like the opening moves now involve a committing undercling on a questionable protrusion that could easily snap off and lead to a backflipping groundfall. Thanks.

Don't sweat it. That section of rock will probably come flaking off the nesxt time it rains anyway. Aren't there Euro crags where the name of each route is painted at it's base, or is that urban legend?

While there, pick up the phone at Newhalem and call your 206 friends for free. Anyone know what's up with that?

Exit 38 (far side) has a low angle grid-bolted slab that looks like 4th or 5.0 and soloable. If you don't want to solo to the anchor you could fix the rope at the base and self-belay. My son is 3 and I am thinking he might be about ready to try climbing soon. Let us know how it goes.

Last summer we had a group going up weekly. We're still working out which day will work this year. You're more than welcome to join us. Perhaps next Tuesday? Send me a pm next week and I'll share what I know. Cheers, Rad

I hope safety is your #1 factor in making a device decision and that cost is secondary.

Traffic volume is a non-issue as there are NO ROADS that connect Stehekin to the rest of the grid. You'd have to ship your car there by boat. The only vehicles that were going up there were hiker/visitor shuttles, run by the park service or contracted out, or Stehekin locals. Blake can tell you how many people live in the Stehekin valley, but I bet it's less than 200. Just the other day a few folks and I were running off all the roads that are washed out and don't plan to re-open any time soon. The number is staggering, and many would see much more use than the upper Stehekin river road.

As PP suggests, Yos ratings often feel stiff for first-timers. I think the reason is due to several factors: 1 - you need to be tuned into jamming cracks (all sizes) without access to face holds. Few WA areas will prepare you. 2 - Yosemite pitches, particularly classics, are often very sustained. Example: NE buttress higher cathedral has 300ft of continuous 5.9 moves. 3 - Most of the classic moderates were put up in an era when 5.9 was thought to be the top end of difficulty. Thus, there are some tough 5.9s out there because people thought if it would go free then it couldn't be 5.10. 4 - Classics see a lot of traffic, which leads to polishing of key holds. Royal arches is the best example I know.

I wrote a letter in the comment period for the 'evaluation' and was disappointed with the result as you are. However, I disagree with this: You can see and experience them, just not by car. By your reasoning, the Pickets would not inspire us. Quite the opposite is true for those I know who have been there. Blake, I like your idea. Unfortunately it also comes down to $. The park services is strapped for cash and a road along the lines you mention would cost millions of dollars. By all means write your legislators. I would enjoy a road there as it would allow my kids to access sooner rather than later. BTW, are you heading to Stehekin this summer as a baker or ranger? Cheers, Rad

What did you expect on "Exfoliation Dome"?

Been there, done that. I slipped unexpectedly off a crappy foothold trying to clip the 2nd bolt on what would have been my hardest redpoint. My astute belayer reeled in an arms-length of rope and jumped back, catching me just as I hit the deck. I would have been fine except the ground was uneven. I sprained my ankle badly and limped away. The lesson I learned: sometimes instead of clipping as soon as the pro is within reach it's better to climb even or past the bolt/pro so you can clip from a better hold/stance. This also reduces wasted energy pulling the rope up to clip. Regarding the rest of the thread, I'd say the best way to learn to lead is to follow. Find an experienced leader whose risk-taking profile is similar to yours and follow and clean trad pitches he/she leads. Look carefully at the placements as you clean. Heck, if this is a single-pitch outing you might even pull the rope, lead using the pre-placed pieces. Too easy? Then clean the pieces and place them all yourself on lead with the knowledge of which ones go where. Lastly, the first few times you fall on your own gear placements and they hold your confidence will bump up. This will help quiet the voices in your head on future leads. The first time your gear blows out will have the opposite effect - hopefully you'll be thinking 'I knew that piece was sketchy'. Be safe, have fun.