Rad

You rang?

Everyone must find their own way, their own balance between reckless and bold, go-for-it and back-down. There is no right answer. This applies not just to climbing, but to everything. The last half of Ripple, a Robert Hunter/Gerry Garcia song copied below, comes to mind: ....................... If my words did glow with the gold of sunshine And my tunes were played on the harp unstrung, Would you hear my voice come thru the music, Would you hold it near as it were your own? It's a hand-me-down, the thoughts are broken, Perhaps they're better left unsung. I don't know, don't really care Let there be songs to fill the air. Ripple in still water, When there is no pebble tossed, Nor wind to blow. Reach out your hand if your cup be empty, If your cup is full may it be again, Let it be known there is a fountain, That was not made by the hands of men. There is a road, no simple highway, Between the dawn and the dark of night, And if you go no one may follow, That path is for your steps alone. Ripple in still water, When there is no pebble tossed, Nor wind to blow. You who choose to lead must follow But if you fall you fall alone, If you should stand then who's to guide you? If I knew the way I would take you home. ................. +

Fine. I look forward to hearing about them when you're ready to share.

Where can we learn about these? Are you just a tease?

There are rules and standards at every climbing area and those should be the predominant factor in determining how routes are established in that area. For some areas that means no bolts at all (Traprock CT), for some it is a mix of bolts and natural pro (Index, Vantage), and for others it may be bolts everywhere (Owens River Gorge, X38, and X32). Climbs inconsistent with local standards may get chopped or won't get climbed by subsequent parties. Both outcomes are bad. Attempting to apply the standards of one area to another is like trying to compare one culture to another. People will get upset and nothing good is likely to emerge in the process.

Is the value of a new route in the experience of its first ascencionist or in those climbers that come afterward? The ground-up trad group seems to fall into the first camp, whereas MattP and I and others fall into the latter camp. In my view, if you make permanent changes to a cliff you should think like Spock: "The needs of the many outweight the needs of the one." You, mr. first ascencionist, are the one. You might stop to think about someone beside yourself.

Gun rack would definitely be a fun lead on gear as you'd have to hang from the lip to place gear in the upper crack.

Ok, so we were 'developing' routes, attempting to clean and protect natural lines, as you suggest, not setting them as in a gym. To suggest that bolts draw crowds that create all the other impacts I mentioned is oversimplistic. Trad routes can draw crowds and have environmental impacts as well. Witness pin scars, fixed nuts and other gear, chopped vegetation, and trash on popular crack climbs, not to mention scads of people and trail erosion on classics like Outer Space. If you've been to popular sandstone crags you have probably seen grooves from extensive rappelling and toproping. Another impact I forgot to mention: trash and human waste. If you want to get a bee in your bonnet for a good cause how about getting a port-o-potty for Index town wall?

Raindawg et al, If you are truly concerned about preserving the natural state of the rock then you must consider several ways climbing can have an environmental impact: 1 - Bolts leave manmade materials behind and permanently alter a small section of rock (about one square inch per bolt, or only a few square milimeters if the bolt is removed and the hole is filled). This impact does not depend on whether bolts are placed on rappel or on lead or drilled by hand or with a powertool. 2 - Pitons have same impact as bolts, although the damage they inflict on cracks cannot be reversed and is more variable than bolts. If you think pitons have no permanent impact on cracks go climb in Yosemite, where some routes are climbed primarily via jams in pin scars. 3 - Anchors usually leave more manmade material behind than bolts or pins. They may involve chains and/or large quantities of nylon slings. When trees are used as anchors on high-use routes, they are often severely damaged. This is why many support the use of bolt anchors on popular routes. 4 - Many routes require cleaning before they are safe for mass consumption. The amount of cleaning will vary, but often involves removing vegetation and loose rock. Even areas that seem to require little cleaning are impacted by traffic. Case in point: finding most climbs in Leavenworth is simply a matter of finding the lichen-free stripes running up the cliffs. These are seen from a great distance, from which bolts are invisible. 5 - Trails, and all of their features, whether built through concerted effort or simply worn in by human traffic, can have a large impact on the landscape. In my limited experience as a fledgling route-setter working at an area where bolts are already the standard, I can tell you that the relative impact of the items mentioned above is 5 > 4 >> 3 > 1. From the wilderness and alpine routes I've climbed, I would say that their relative impact is 5 > 4 >> 3 > 2 = 1. Thus, with regard to environmental impact, your obsession with bolts seems to be misplaced and is perhaps driven by your view that sport climbing has unacceptably reduced the risks of climbing. If you could separate the environmental impact issues from your views on sport climbing style you might assemble and articulate a more compelling argument. Good luck with that. Cheers, Rad

I agree completely. If you get nervous do your best starfish impression, activate your MLU, and wait for the chopper and TV cameras.

I heard that Bryan Burdo has one or two new guide books coming out soon. Does anyone know the scoop?

Thanks for posting. Your photos illustrate why sometimes it's good to have a helmet even if you plan to be unroped. Keep exploring!

Kaleetan S ridge is fun w/a little 3rd classing. Snoqualmie peak is good via the trail that runs directly up from the Alpental lot, but I have not been on it early in the season when it is snow-covered. Farther afield try Del Campo, Vesper, Baring, Daniel. Have fun.

Congrats, and thanks for posting a TR. This site could use more TRs and less spray. Cheers, Rad

"(BTW Rad, how much did ya get for the kidney?)" I got enough from the deal to quit my day job and sit around rural Canada posting 45,000 times on CC!

I bear some responsibility for Mythosgrl's injury as I encouraged her to lead the 5.9 climb in question and was belaying her when she fell. It was basically just bad luck. She has since gone on to greater things!

I bear some responsibility for Mythosgrl's injury as I encouraged her to lead the 5.9 climb in question and was belaying her when she fell. It was basically just bad luck. She has since gone on to greater things!

Tape is aid - like BAND-AID! Try it sometime, everyone's doing it

Vesper rocks, and you can link it with Sperry pretty easily. The following are excellent workouts with a little 3rd or 4th class and some great views at the top: Kaleetan (S ridge). Baring. Del Campo.

There goes my last excuse for not doing it, and my onsight! Thanks. ........... "RE Steepstreet: The new start is pretty cool. The undercling is bomber and fun. The move out left after clipping felt a bit harder than I remember though, as you can no longer get a good right foot."

BTW, has anyone climbed Steep Street since that huge block fell off? It looks like the opening moves now involve a committing undercling on a questionable protrusion that could easily snap off and lead to a backflipping groundfall. Thanks.

Don't sweat it. That section of rock will probably come flaking off the nesxt time it rains anyway. Aren't there Euro crags where the name of each route is painted at it's base, or is that urban legend?

While there, pick up the phone at Newhalem and call your 206 friends for free. Anyone know what's up with that?

Exit 38 (far side) has a low angle grid-bolted slab that looks like 4th or 5.0 and soloable. If you don't want to solo to the anchor you could fix the rope at the base and self-belay. My son is 3 and I am thinking he might be about ready to try climbing soon. Let us know how it goes.

Last summer we had a group going up weekly. We're still working out which day will work this year. You're more than welcome to join us. Perhaps next Tuesday? Send me a pm next week and I'll share what I know. Cheers, Rad