Rad

Thanks Mark. That needs to be fixed soon as that route sees a LOT of traffic. It would be best if the developer would fix them... Failing that, I'm working on a few routes in the area and could possible put in new Hilti KB3 3/8 stainless bolt(s) if needed, but I probably can't get out there until next week. Please update this thread when bolts are fixed. Otherwise, someone should put a note at the base of the route warning people of the bolt status. Thanks. And if you are philosophically opposed to bolts or maligned against x38 then feel free to post in one of the thousands of anti-bolt threads on this site.

Yikes. Rocketing backward over a cliff sure sounds scary. Glad you're ok. Sounds like you just got a bad break, but your skills and stamina helped get you out in one piece. Give yourself some credit for that. FWIW, bone breaks typically heal faster than soft tissue injuries and have fewer lingering bad affects. You'll be back at it someday if you want it enough. Thanks for sharing.

This is a fabulous shot. Thanks for posting.

I have the Hilti TE 6A and that thing is f'n heavy. I can't imagine shlepping it up the big E, but then the sherpas probably carried it 98% of the way. What gets me is not the polypro but the bare hands on the rock. Brr! Hey Rain, why don't you put your talk into action and go chop those things!

Great to see you getting out Daddy-Dinka. Mmmm - Primrose dihedrals look fabulous. thanks for the pics

been circulating on the interweb for a long time, but a fun read the first time through, if you've got lots and lots of time.

Neurological circuits (both in your head and in your limbs) and musculature will be strengthened/reinforced in response to each specific challenge it is given. Train bicep power, get powerful biceps. Train calf endurance, get calf endurance. Train open hand contact strength gain open hand contact strength. Etc etc etc. Obviously stretching, rest, and working opposing muscles can help prevent injuries, and staying healthy is key as you get older like me. With this in mind, let your climbing goals define your training. Want to run up 4000ft of 40 degree ice? Sign up for the Frieh school of pain. Want to boulder V7 on crimpy routes? Listen to Sol. Want to lead all the liebacks on Grand Wall? Lieback as much as possible and do weighted pullups. Want to do RAMROD? Get on the bleeping bike. Sure, x-training can bring you some basic fitness if you're a couch potato, or hone your core and buns if you're stronger, but it probably won't be the most efficient path to your first 11c crimpy redpoint. I used to think climbing harder routes was just about getting stronger. Now I've come to understand that everything, including strength, comes back to the mental aspect. Gullich illustrates this: "the hardest part of training is deciding to start at all". I'd add, the second hardest part is sticking with it. Nice thread despite the advertisements. Thanks for sharing your tips. on

Don't worry. Obama should be gone in 7 yrs, 8 months, and 2 weeks. sickie

Cool. Yep, the NEB is a pretty physical route. More so if you get off route up high as we did. Nice work.

Threxx, You can expect a lot of snide comments on this forum, so if that's not your cup of tea best to check out now. That said, some will provide you with thoughtful advice. Here's my 2 cents: 1 - If you have no experience on glaciers hiring a guide is a good way to go, particularly in August. 2 - Talk to your prospective guide about fitness. They can tell you where you should be. The level you need depends on how fast you plan to ascend (e.g. 1-3 days). 3 - You have to understand that Rainier is a big mtn and weather can ruin your plans any time of the year. 4 - If you are hell bent on a summit, don't want to hire a guide, and want to test your fitness go hike up Whitney in CA. It's a crowded walk-up with none of the snow, ice, glacier issues of Rainier. 5 - If you are motivated there's no reason why you can't achieve your goal. Good luck. Rad

I see hogging the section of wall as the ettiquette issue here, not the chalk bag poaching. I find people do a lot of staring at the wall, from close and far, but it doesn't bother me. I often have limited gym time and want to make the most of it. What usually works for me: make eye contact and use body gesture and/or words to ask if they're starting a route - if not then just jump in there. In a situation like you mentioned above, wait until 2nd fall and say, "mind if I try this one?" as you move to its start. More problematic is when you have two or more people working a route, where one jumps in right after the other. Usually, I'll just move to a different section of wall. Another challenging situation is when one or more routes traverse and cross each other - who has the right of way? There are no hard and fast rules. Treat others the way you would like to be treated and everyone should be happy. Bouldering can be a fun social scene with good positive energy. For solitude you may need to go elsewhere. Good luck.

Then there are some crazy blank slabs, like the 10c under GM. Who can do that thing?

glad you got the bag back and no blows were exchanged.

When you put the draws back on Abo I'll gladly clip them and leave them there after the redpoint. The bolt left of the two finger pocket at the lower crux is a pain in the arse to clip. Wish they'd put it to the right of that pocket...maybe I just need to train harder, find a better sequence, or wear my roller skates.

Insert "Whaa!" bulance photo

Good Peregrine pic. This should be pegged (or some other verb) with a clear title in he rock climbing forum.

I remember climbing at Traprock CT, where you have to bring a separate rope to sling distant shrubs back from the edge of the cliff. Pain in the arse that, and certainly not less of an eyesore. Similar situation for some routes at Mt Diablo in CA EXCEPT that the rock is sandstone. Net result = deep grooves in rock where anchor ropes and top ropes run. THAT is more irreversible damage than a bolt. Like Bill says, different crags lend themselves to different styles. Index LTW could be trad only and no bolts, but there would be a lot fewer routes and you'd have to top out every time or leave gear behind. BTW, your no bolt crag sounds like a concept that might fly for an article for Climbing. Get someone with a good sense of humor to write it.

Cool linka Berdinka. I see it lists Prime Rib as 10c. Thanks to all y'alls for the new routes and cleaning and refitting of old routes. I'll put Original on the list - it is such a striking line and the falls look totally clean.

Has anyone done the 10d thin crack dihedral about 100ft to the right (can't recall name and don't have the book handy). It looks really good, but the finish looks like a gravel mantle into a bush.

Prime rib is usually done as three short pitches, but a single 60m rope will take you to the top anchor (or double 60s get you back down to the deck). The first pitch is a short vertical wierd crack system followed by an easy ramp. The second pitch is also quite short and involves thin slab and facework protected by copious bolts. The third pitch has a few fun layback and groove moves, some arete, a small roof, and a handcrack to the anchors. 10b seemed about right, with the crux around the third bolt in the middle pitch. Fun climb, though I liked Heart of Gold better (except that terrible traversing pitch).

improve wa transit - pls vote for this project. .............. Commuter Challenge (a program of enterpriseSeattle) is one of four finalists for a $200,000 grant from the Green Mountain Coffee Company (now owners of Tully’s Coffee). Over the next week, we need to demonstrate public support. You can help by merely clicking your mouse. Go to www.justmeans.com/challenge/climate , then scroll down to the section marked “Transportation.” Our proposal is second on the list (it has a picture of Paul Minett and his name – he is my associate and he wrote the grant proposal). Just go over to the right hand side and click on the “Support It” tab. Then ask all your friends and coworkers to do the same. Please call me if you have questions. Thanks very much for your help. Let’s bring some stimulus money to Washington! Stephen Gerritson Business Development Manager Clean Energy and Technology enterpriseSeattle

Two scoops

"In the mean time, patience is going to help the cause the best." And when you go to the crag be good citizens so that if decision makers visit they will see responsible people using a treasured resource. It would be really, really sad to lose the LTW at Index.

Eggcellent. Kennedy was the best editor at Climbing IMHO.

you need another category for "virtual" or "armchair" or "in my memories"