Rad

Cool pics. Makes the impact of a few 3/8 inch bolts look pretty inconsequential. Dynamite is aid.

I'll echo the goatboy: Most people only stop and belay a few pitches on the full N ridge (2 low on the lower NR, 2 at the gendarme, and one up higher). The rest is 4th class to 5.6 or 5.7, and this is where simulclimbing swiftly and safely is very helpful. It may be worthwhile to practice or at least talk about simulclimbing with your partner. There should be water running near the base of the lower NR, and there should be snow near the top of the Cascadian. In between is a crapshoot. 2-3 liters should be ample, but even that sounds awfully heavy. Fast and light certainly has advantages. Finally, WATCH the weather forecast. It can snow up there any time of year. Enjoy!

Now that you have the anchor you might as well put in several bolts and do the FA on this RAD sport line!

This is like debating whether a climb should be old school 5.9 or 5.10a or sport wimp 5.10c. At the end of the day the climb is what it is, regardless of grade or style. Each route, thankfully, is unique and special. Now get the Yosemite hammer to hug the hilti and be done with it.

so my trad rack/gear can be quickdraws or slings with biners? Certainly sounds cheaper.

Yeah, that Bachar/Yerian route? Total sport climb dude. You'll notice I never mentioned sport in my post, dude. Bolted climbs are not trad IMHO, regardless of whether they are ground-up, onsight, and bolted by hand from hooks or rappel bolted with a Hilti. If your trad defn is different then post it and let the discussion continue.

Trad, in my view, is cracks that are freeclimbed and protected with removable gear, where one is following a natural line of crack(s). Climbs that fit this include Aries, GM, Rogers/BOC, Toxic Shock, Godzilla, Heart of the Country,and many others at Index. The NE Buttress of Higher Cathedral, Braile Book, Nutcracker in Yosemite. Backbone ridge of Dtail. Burger Stanley and other routes on Prussik etc etc etc. Dreamer is mostly bolt protected slab. Bolts are not trad in any book. Grand wall has two bolt ladders, which are even less trad than bolted slabs. The Grand does follow a natural line of cracks, which is more than we can say for Dreamer, but it also has a bolted crack (Perry's) so that takes away points. In short, your poll is like asking which grade is more acceptable, C- or D+. NEITHER is acceptable!

Tazz, You should take a chill pill. What would you have said to Fred and Helmey when as teenagers they spent ten days in the Pickets doing first ascents? Should they have had a certified guide with them and carried MLUs? Josh, There are some quality people on CC who will help you learn some basics (e.g. MattP) if you don't abuse their good will. Good luck surviving the early years. We all did some dumb stuff and managed to survive. Make sure you don't pay a big price or cause others to suffer because of your poor decisions. Have some fun!

Cascadian Couloir. There was a TR on it recently on cc, though most here consider it a necessary evil to endure on the way down.

Amazing story. Great job on your parts in the rescue. Glad to hear it has a happy ending.

Great addition! I think it's high time for a new guide to some of the great routes that have gone up in the past 5 years or so...any authors out there? Brrr! I've shivered in a 'went too light' bivy on the summit of Stuart, but it didn't go below freezing like it did for you.

God gave men a brain and a penis but not enough blood to use both at the same time.

The memories of a man in his old age are the deeds of a man in his prime (Floyd). And for Max and Jens:

Yep, black, and a real beauty. They come in a wide range of colors. The shoulder hump and shovel nose are the hallmarks of grizzly. And size, though that's harder to judge from a distance. Nice trip.

1 - It has kicked my arse twice, perhaps because it has well-spaced large holds in the middle that entice me to reach and crank rather than climb smoothly. Then I get flamed out before the upper crux. 2 - It has a painful two finger pocket crux that you want to grab with your left hand, but the bolt is left of that, and then the next move is a long one up and right. I probably just need a better sequence there. 3 - The name is culturally insensitive. 4 - It has kicked my arse twice and probably will again!

Gold Rush (11b) in the woods area is an excellent climb. Disincarnate (11a) at WWI is cool. I'm not a fan of Aborigine, but everyone else is.

pm sent

RIP. Off to New Dimensions.

Fabuloso! BTW, are the bolts placed to allow one to cheat past the 5.11 friction cruxes on Passenger if necessary, or are these mandatory free moves? Great pics too.

I agree with Lowell that the numbers are probably low, I don't think this is because climbing is dying. Here are two factors to consider: 1 - Climbing may once have been trad only, with crags being just training for tha alpine, but this is no longer the case. There are plenty of folks who mainly boulder, mainly climb hard sport, mainly climb trad at favorite crags (e.g Index), mainly climb ice, mainly climb indoors, etc etc. So even though there may not be tons of >=5.9 alpine climbers that doesn't mean there aren't plenty of climbers. 2 - The distibution of good WA alpine rock routes is skewed toward easier lines so harder climbers look elsewhere for challenges. I wouldn't be surprised if the number of alpine rock routes looks like this: # 5.7 and 5.8 >> # 5.9 and 5.10 routes >> # 5.11 routes >> # 5.12 routes. I have to imagine this is a largely a function of WA geology, because guides suggest there are plenty of alpine 5.11s and 5.12s in CA and CO. Perhaps climbers who are motivated may swiftly outgrow our lovely PNW and seek bigger challenges in the Bugs, Yosemite and high Sierras, AK, Patagonia, Europe, Colorado etc. The rest of us weekend warriors seem to have plateaued in the 5.9 to 5.11- range and happily gobble up what WA has to offer.

Great TR. Someday I'll print this in small font and mutter as I squint in the fading light, "so is this the decoy rap or the first 25m rap?" Dehydration is a beyotch.

I've discussed this with partners as well. I can't answer your poll without some more granular definition. What is PNW? Does BC count? OR? Idaho? Montana? WY? AK? What is alpine? Do you mean back country, and if so how far back? Above treeline? Do you mean only trad? Will I think we can agree that Prussik is alpine. Gunsight is alpine. CBR is alpine. What about Darrington? Guye peak? Vesper? Sloan? BTW, I think many of the people on this board would like to see your list of the 25 routes people actually do. There are plenty of routes in the Nelsen guides that don't make that list (e.g. Disappearing Floor, Eve Dearborn (OK, it's ice), and Girth Pillar).

Of course you can solo, but I wouldn't. The route we did was around toward the West and pretty straightforward though exposed. Bring a few stoppers and/or cams in the .5-2" range and you should be fine. Maybe a couple of long slongs. Lots of pro options up there.

Looks like he's seeking beta for das toof. You could have some real fun with that one.

Poke around on CC and you'll find a few of them. Dragon scar, Dragons of Eden, Colchuck cragging, Solid Gold etc etc