Rad

and hilarious!

Keep leg intact and chimney with left armbars.

Cool story Bill. One of my best friend/partners lived in a TeePee on the East side of the Sierra for a number of years. Pictures really conveyed the romantic image you might imagine. In a less aesthetic sense, I know folks who lived in yurts for several years. Still others grew up in trailer parks. How many do we all know living in vehicles? I remember an ad (not sure the vendor) that pictured Dean Potter slacklining in Yosemite in the sunshine. The caption read, "There is a leisure class at both ends of the economic spectrum".

Names don't ring a bell. Which crag?

Thanks for posting. Sounds like several near misses. You have reaffirmed my decision not to go in there until that dang pocket glacier is gone completely.

Jens just completed the FA on a new route he's calling Tea Time. It's at Gunshow - go down right to the 10c/11c pair and climb the line 5ft right of their shared start. It's got some great moves on clean rock - 5 or 6 bolts, 11b. For some moderate routes not in the book go to this area: x38 routes above Deception area - not in guide book yet

The overhanging line under the traverse anchors is a short 11c power problem put up by Jens Klebberud. Not sure what the rating is on the traverse as I haven't done it.

Exotic rests are cool, but I find that 90% of the time my best rests involve a STEM and/or a BACKSTEP. Somewhat less useful rests involve creative use of a large handhold: wrap thumb over top and release fingers, wrap arm/elbow over top, or just swap hands in a straight arm hang.

Which is more important, the partnership or the gear? Think about it before chewing out your partner over a $6 biner.

I don't think I could pick just one. I've had a few high points this year so far: The Sword. Metamorphosis (FA). Leave My Face Alone. Negatherion. Past alpine pitches: Stuart NR gendarme p2 at sunset. 5.9 pitch on E ridge Inspiration at sunset.

Thompson is like Unicorn: a very long way to haul a rope for a few moves of mid-fifth chossy climbing. The setting is certainly fabulous. We came in/out via a road SE of Commonwealth basin. It brought us up to the ridgecrest in 30 minutes of x-country travel at the point where the PCT flattens on the ridgecrest and heads toward Red mtn/Kendall. If you can find this it will save you substantial time/miles/elevation. IMHO, N face Vesper is better in every aspect.

I look forward to more posts here because I need to update my shoes. I have a pair of Fires that I got for free in 1990 and have resoled several times since. They are crap for edging but heaven in cracks and all day. I have an old pair of aces I like for harder (for me) routes. Trouble is I have to take them off at the end of each pitch or else they hurt by the end of the day. Also been resoled several times. I have long narrow feet, with left foot slightly larger, and if I get shoes that press on my left big toe it really hurts (read leads to foot problems that make walking a problem). I wanted to get Evolv but every shoe I tried on hurt like this. Suggestions appreciated. Rad

Perhaps that second pic is not such a good way to get your mate to 'put out'.

One man gathers what another man spills....

Life without risk is like pancakes without syrup: not as sweet!

quote=fheimerd]We where wondering who gets on a big ridge climb in the afternoon as clouds are beginning to build. Only the bold I dare say, only the bold. Some might choose other adjectives. I, for one, am very glad that your creativity in staying warm and getting off safely trumped your (insert adjective) decision to head up a big alpine ridge into the teeth of a gathering storm without protective gear. In any case, it sounds like you have a firm grasp of all the factors that contributed to the situation so you don't need Monday morning QBs. Besides, I've certainly done foolish things and been spanked by Mother Nature. Thank you, sir, may I have another!?

Idea to keep gym rats in the gym: send them out with Ivan for their first alpine outing. The resulting sufferfest will send them back indoors faster than a flaring offwidth. This is not really a new idea. Layton did it to MrE on E Mox. Worked him so good the poor guy moved to a warm, sunny, brush-free state and hasn't looked back.

You could down lead the easy 5th class bit. It would take longer but then you could go with a 30m rope. My partner and I took 2 30m 8mm ropes. They were light and did the trick - easy to split between two packs too.

no stll there txtng u 4 2 rescu plz

When I did it two years ago we got to Glacier Meadows on a bluebird day at 11am or so and the rangers tried to convince us not to go up. "It's too warm, too soft, too late, you don't have enough gear, are you sure you're experienced?" We smiled, told them some routes we'd done elsewhere, and headed for the glacier. We had the entire upper mountain to ourselves on a perfect day.

Nice alpine adventure. Later in the season it is much more straightforward, and perhaps more boring.

It's not bad at all. You get a good cam in under the roof before you start. When you commit to the undercling the piece is near your face. In two steps you've got your feet on the crystals and are turning the corner onto easier ground, so it works out fine. If you like underclings check out the Sail Flake on Grand Wall. It's amazing! I agree with you that p2 is the most strenuous and the two 10c pitches feel easier. The first time I was on that route I was sweating buckets too! Cloudy days have their advantages.

Quite a booty haul!

perhaps this thread should move 2 spray so the survivors, family, and friends don't stumble on this garbage...

Das Toof is not bad, though short and harder than you requested. Most things I know off I90 and 2 are fairly chossy, but some are good training workouts: Red mtn, Chair, Kaleetan, Thompson, Baring. Wait a few weeks and do some longer, moderate alpine outings that require roping up: N face Vesper. W face Stuart. Don't forget to have fun on the training outings too!