Rad

Great job. We all look forward to more pics.

Approximate times to a few trailheads: 45 minutes: Northbend (exit 32 and 38). Mostly sport, some trad. 75 minutes: Index town wall. Mostly trad, some sport. 90 minutes: Nason Ridge. Sport. 120-150 minutes: Darrington, Leavenworth, Erie. Sport and trad. 140-200 minutes: Washington Pass, Vantage, Tieton, numerous alpine backcountry. Mostly trad, some sport. 200-240 minutes: Squamish BC. Sport and trad. Others can comment on ice.

DPS, I've only met you once but appreciate your positive energy and good attitude. I believe that we get what we give, and if you give smiles and kind words and good conversation you should should be repaid with the same...at least from me and many here. Maybe another lesson you can help modern society learn is that good things can come to those who SLOOOOW DOOOOWN!!!! Don't worry Ivan, you're already immortal on the CC interweb!

Went to Nevermind today. We could not discern any damage to the routes in question (climbed SS, and looked carefully at the lower sxns of other two) and there was no obvious pile of rubble at the base to suggest anything bad happened. SS is definitely going to be harder when (not if) that undercling flake eventually cuts loose. Also, the jug at the first clip of the 10a is rattly. Not sure if it was before or not.

Next time pack the wing suit:

Yikes! A few years ago the start for Steep Street and Under Arrest changed substantially when a large block (3' x 3' x 2') fell off the wall. Now you step up into a committing undercling on a fin/flake that looks like if could pop off pretty easily. There will probably be more there. Don't like the current routes? Just wait a few months and check back to see if they have changed.

Bump. Anyone been out here this summer?

This is what I use: Hilti KB3 bolts at MEC There are many other ones that can work. Note: you can find the same bolts at big box hardware stores, and might be tempted to get them as they are cheaper. I've been told that the more expensive ones are individually tested/checked and getting the hardware stores ones is more risky.

Great job. Thanks for posting. Your nice pics suggest this route is more solid than I had been lead to believe. Welcome to CC!

E ledges beta: Rap until you it get to a cairn at a good ledge. Last time we didn't go far enough and had to go back and do more raps. A rope really won't help you on the E ledges (other than for the raps) as there isn't really anywhere to place gear so put it away after the raps. I'd recommend a slightly rising traverse on the path of least resistance across the ledges. This will bring you out right at the top of the gully. If you get to the loose gully at the end of the traverse don't climb in it. Rock on the right side of it is more solid. You may feel more comfortable with your rock shoes on, but it's certainly not required. Just keep your head about you and you'll be perfectly fine. Finally, start early enough that you're not hurried on the E ledges or traversing them for the first time in the dark. Have fun!

Get up early and wait in line at the station. Be flexible with your backcountry plans. You might get in that way.

Don't worry Gene, you can Cinch my Edelweiss any time. When we last spoke you were off to sit in a tent in the rain on a foggy glacier with a bunch of hyperactive toddlers. How did that go?

If they can hold a myriad of classes on this crag that should free up Classic Crack so RUMR can finally get his pinkpoint.

Correct. 2 points.

Actually, that was from middle school, but let's not hijack the thread. ...... West Mac bivy sounds like a great vantage to watch sunrise and sunset. My partner and I bivied on the summit of Inspiration and it was very cool.

For the record, Mr. Bee, "its" should have an apostrophe for your use. This is a common spelling error. As a possessive there is no apostrophe: "That cam will never hold because its lobes are tipped out." As a contraction there is an apostrophe "It's the fifth time I've asked you to stop farting in the tent, now get out!"

JH, thanks for useful links. Malcolm Daly of Trango says don't use either the Cinch or the Gri-gri for soloing, so I don't understand why people latched onto the former and ignored the latter. Neither is approved or designed for that use. Dmuja, on TR the rope will run from the ground to the anchor and back down to the climber, just as in a regular TR, so I don't see why you think the fall factors would be longer than on lead. In my case, I know I'll be falling on TR and strongly doubt that I'll fall leading the moderate route. Feck, thanks for tips. This is a sport crag so I don't know if there are gear anchor possibilities. I'll have to think hard about what device to use. Recommendations accepted. Thanks so far.

Congrats on slots and dry heaves. Perhaps this should move to the Pirates forum due to picture piracy, but I'm glad you inserted them.

My books are in storage so I thought I'd ask here about solo roped climbing. I've been climbing for many years but have never done this before and would be grateful for tips/corrections. I want to lead a moderate line to TR a harder line and was thinking something like this: 1 - Climb moderate to first bolt, clip a bight of rope end to the first bolt using a locking biner. Rope feeds from biner to my Cinch (auto-locking device similar to a gri-gri) which is on my locking biner on my harness. As I climb I pay out rope through the Cinch and clip bolts as I pass them until I get to the chains (shared with harder route). 2 - Lower down hard route on Cinch, clipping the rope through Q draws as I go as this route is rather overhanging. Once on the ground, I'd fix the end of the rope to a tree not too far away. 3 - Then climb the moderate route again, cleaning the rope and draws from it. The Cinch is now protecting me like a TR. 4 - Then I'd lower straight down the steep route, fix THAT end of the rope, and tie myself into the end that I'd tied to the tree previously (which runs through the Qdraws). 5 - Finally, climb hard route on TR with Cinch as belay. This requires pulling rope through the device whenever there is a spot to free one arm to do that. Lower or rappel (with separate device) to get off. That's what I envision, but I am a noob and welcome your suggestions/corrections. If you want to spray that's fine but please post some useful tips too.

Dana Designs made backpacks (got my first in 1990 and still have it). Chounard made climbing gear (have a set of stoppers with C in the side). REI took crappy clothing and stuck their name on it. At least some things stay the same.

We may end up at x32. You didn't want to go to work did you?

We have 3 and would welcome a 4th. Leaving near I5/520 jxn about 9am and returning by 5. Send pm by 6am if interested. Rad

source please? Side of biner in pictures and numbers (but I had my decimal in wrong place so was off by factor of 10): Trango superfly: 24kN closed long, 7kN crossload closed, 9kN open. BD wiregate (finder so not sure which): 25kN closed long, 7kN crossload closed, 9kN open.

If you clip the bolts and the chains/rings press on and open the gates of your biners that is bad. A biner with a strength of 23kN might fail at 9kN with the gate open. If you decide to clip bolts directly, which does have less potential points of failure, try to extend your runner/quickdraws below the lowest rings/chains so that the rope runs free of these things.

Either is fine if an inspection suggests rings look ok. There are other things to worry about.