Bill_Simpkins

We are starting to sound like our parents. I wonder what older climbers thought of the R&I issues that came out in the 80's? All these young skinny people sending way hard routes wearing pink lycra and lot's of hair spray.

Maybe he was that day. Do both of them, and you can't miss!

Once while climbing to the snag I ran into Dallas Kloke. He informed me this was the true Zig Zag. That the Smoot book was incorrect in going to the Snag. It doesn't matter though, both ways are fun. Yeah the top out is a little sketchy, but I think the last piece you can get in is good.

1st Pitch Zig Zag-Up corner ( sorry for the butt shot). 2nd Pitch Zig Zag-Keep going up this corner to dead branch and bolts. Not to snag. Teetering Branch behind me. Sorry for the poser shot! About 20 feet to the left of the end of the 2nd pitch is this bolted route. 5.9?

!st pitch up corner then straight up to bolts. 2nd pitch goes striaght up from bolts, not to snag, to right facing roof. Follow this crack way up(easier than it looks, good pro), watch for rope drag, to bolts by "teetering" branch. Many variations to get to top from there. I'll post some photos later when I get home tonight.

I have cleaned up a bouldering spot by there. It's nice cause you can boulder a bit, then jump in the lake about 20 feet away. As for the big cliff. There are some lines starting about 20-30 feet off the ground, good pockets and stuff, but below that is blank. On the leftish side, there is a large flake, but needs some gardening. We cleaned out a hand crack, but it filled up with blackberry bushes a year later. Also, about every winter, a big boulder or two will come off the top. There is always a lot of debri ready to go, like dead trees. A few chunks of rock toward the top don't look very stable. Great swimming holes and ropeswings though. On a nice day it's paradise!

I bring climbing tape and a bandana. Already have a knife in pack. Can use gear for splints. Runners work good as slings. Schoeller and other clothes that stretch work good for whatever else.

I may be shunned for this, but I use a gigri for top rope soloing. I fix a line up top and pull in the slack. I tie in short every 10-20 feet.

Trad Rack: Flex Friends (0-4), Camalots(1-3), DMM 3CU's, Stoppers, couple tiny hexes, pink tricam. Most placed piece: 0.5 flex friend (I think that translates to a yellow TCU).

train on this hyppie

Nice one!

Rap it up with a sling to tighten it up. I usually put stuff in my pack so I can pull it out in the order that I put it on, exept for shoes and chalk bag, which I put at the top underneath my helmet, in case I want to boulder around a bit.

I have a Toyota 2WD longbed with a canopy. Gets good milage. The back has a platform that is raised to just above the wheel wells. The whole thing is covered in foamies then shag carpet. On each side of the wheel well are compartments that you can lift up to store things (like antefreeeze, water, tools, etc...). There is also room underneathe the bed to store an extra tire, shovel and all of the packs and gear. There is room for two to sleep comfortably.

I snowboard in my leather mountaineering boots.

Sounds fun. Too bad you didn't get to the summit to read the "epic" that's in the summit log.

I heard that the road going to Cascade Pass is paved at the end because of a film shoot. I wonder if this was the film. If not, anyone know what film paved the end of that road?

Found someone.

Down for whatever. Need to be back home in the evening. PM me if interested

I believe the camera shot is facing SE? The coulour was filled with snow. Looked easy. Probably easier than it was getting up to the notch between the Bell and Concord. The next day we scrambled up the S. ridge of Whistler and shot this picture of the back side of the Liberty Bell group. This was taken on the 4-19-04 from the summit of Whistler.

I was there last weekend. The road is open to the trailhead. A little snow on SEWS Arete, a little snow on the Bell. Did not need axes on routes. Need axe for Beckey route approach. Heres a pic from last weekend. SEWS.

"Another prophet of disaster, Who says this ship is lost. Another prophet of disaster, Leaving you to count the cost. Taunting us with visions Inflicting us with fear Predicting war for millions, In the hope that one appears."

The rock ridge on Baker on the way to Camp Kiser on a cloudy day.

Luna Peak Elephant Head Just guesses.

Someone wanted to see this ? I took this on Saturday.

A block of fresh parmesan. Just munch on it. Jerky. Hard boiled eggs.