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Everything posted by Bill_Simpkins
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Trail is good to pass. Lot's of water until pass. Bring crampons and ice axe. Hike all the way to pass then head right over small bump then make ascent up long steep slope then traverse up and left under small peak. From there you can pretty much see the route. The hike out can seem tedious.
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The things you enjoy, the cars you drive, the planes you fly, the TV you watch, the caribiners you fall on, the friction on your climbing shoes, are all a result of physics research. If you use any of those things, you should be willing to sacrifice something. On another note, I don't think that tunnel in Index is used for gravitational research because the train would mess up the results.
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We were watching Moonraker at the pad and noticed lots of granite rock in it. FOund this web page. rio rock
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[TR] Tomyhoi Peak - Southeast Route 7/18/04
Bill_Simpkins replied to Bill_Simpkins's topic in North Cascades
A rope wouldn't do any good. It's a big choss pile. The class 3 is easy. It looks sketchy looking at the exposed bit the first time, but once you get on it, it's not bad. It took us 8 hours. I did it 2 years ago with less goofing around and took 7 hours. -
Nice hike and easy scramble. Good views. After 3 miles or so you, cut by the lake and head up steep slopes to the peak. 3 miles to lake, 2.5 more to summit. Polish Bob in action! It is easiest to cross a short patch of the Glacier to bypass some rock. After a short bit, of class 2, scramble some exposed class 3 to the summit. At the top: Nice hike/easy scramble. 8 hours RT with many breaks. About 11 miles RT. Ice axe optional. Ski pole or stick should be sufficient, but also required.
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I personally would go with the forged friends. The #1 size sucks because of the stem to lobe ratio, but still works ok, but the others are really good. They make a good addition to a rack when you finally get around to getting camalots or whatever, because they are super light. I've climbed many routes with forged friends with no problems. Get a few tricams for the horizontal placements. Another option you may consider would be this: DMM 3CU's full set (4Cu's suck), sizes 0.5 through 1.75, inexpensive. These are good cams, in my opinion. Forged Friends #2, 2.5, 3, 3.5 and 4. This way you have TCU's, 6 flexable, light cams and light larger sizes.
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If I was broke: 1 set BD stoppers(#3-13) Tricams( pink, Red, Brown) Forged Friends(1.5, 2, 2.5, 3, 3.5, 4) Then when more money comes in start getting TCU's and BD's.
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If you can stay in the hut, all you need is a sleeping bag. I would stay outside in a bivy sack at Muir with nice weather and a warm bag. Probably a 10 degree bag or less. But, if you're just going to Muir, why not bring a tent? It's really not that far. Light pack or heavy pack, it takes 2-4 hours. However, the true trick is to go with someone and make them carry the tent. hehehehe Honestly, I can't remember the last time I carried a tent on a climb.
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What, why would anybody monitor who is climbing with Neutrinos. Nice one.
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Marymoore multipitch: Don't ask how I got my pole stuck up here: No comment: Head shot: Lighting? Look! Magic Wave!
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It is faster to drive to Mt. Erie than to hike up to Oyster dome. You'll probably have the most fun at Larrabee if you don't have much time. Try the Grey Wall, Pink Wall (on tracks between Larrabee and Clayton),Cornflakes (just south of Grey Wall), Boat Launch Wall, Clayton Beach, The Point (at Larrabee where the lovebirds make out on the rocks).
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Uh. What do you mean? Answer: With soft shells you need not pack them. You wear them, all the time. Sun, drizzle, cold. That's what's cool about them, it lighten up your pack a pound or two. Plus they are comfy, they climb well(stretchy), and look good enough to go to a nice place to eat when your done. They are kind of the perfect pant. It's scary, but I think soft shells will get much more popular for people just wearing them around. Just watch Star Trek! hehe
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I have a pair a Patagonia Guide pants ($180) and a pair of REI Mintrals($90). They both fit me fine and take a lot of abuse. I run, hike, slog and rock climb in both of them. No problems. Both have good warrantees if they biff on you. My advise: Go with what fits you best.
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Mt. Erie- Sunset Slabs, bit of a hike, but super easy, huge anchors, nive views. There are a couple of low-moderate routes on the right. Larrabee- Boat Launch Wall. Drive to the boat lauch and look south. You have to top tope from the top because of the length. Bring a super long sling to back up the metal anchor that is pounded into the wood.
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-Eiger Sanction (good) -Touching the Void (good) -K2 (hehe) Cliffhanger (Just pure entertainment. Watching Sly bolt a route on freesolo is fun, and watching him double-dyno is funny two. The best are the outtakes on the DVD where he is campusing off of an icicle with one hand. Good stuff!) -Even a few moves are pulled in the beginning of the movie Krull when he is climbing the mountain and retrieving the Glade. Short but sweet.
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dude....
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0.5 Friend. #5 BD stopper. .75 BD Camalot. #1 HEX. Pink Tricam.
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Dallas Kloke has a new guidebook on Mt. Erie. If it's out yet, it is probably in there.
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I use it under ideal conditions. Trees, bolts. Not around rocks. I also use it for prussiks and have an alpine cordelette, web-o-lette style made of it. not for hanging belays or anything, more as a "just in case". Also my ice-axe leash and webbing on my aiding hooks.
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When I am hiking through the woods alone on an approach, I sometimes have my ice axe out. I tap it on an occasional rock or tree to let the critters know I'm there. On another note: I went to Alaska a few times when I was a kid. We used to hear bear and moose walking though our camps. Even under such situations, I used to walk to the outhouse by myself. My father didn't teach us to hurt the animals, more of how to deal with them. He has ran into many a critter, face to face, with no problems. He is 70 now, and has probably had at least 50 face to face encounters, including with cougers, without problems. Yes, bears and cougers are very different. Bears are territorial. Cougers hunt.
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Yeah. For volcanoes, I'd go with all straps. Grivel G10 Camp 490 Stubai
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This is what I usually bring. Hard boiled eggs. Jerky. Block of Parmasen cheese(just munch on it). Ramen. Begals. All except for the Ramen and begals are very filling. The cheese is my comfort food.
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I think I'll just take a poo and look at topos. That usually does the trick.
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I'm stuck in a cubical.
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Does kicking someones ass actually prove any point? Isn't one of the reasons, according to GWB, we are in Iraq is to liberate the people there from a government that kicks peoples asses who speak out against their government? Also, what high horse are you on that says you can kick someones ass for burning a flag. That person might turn around and kick your ass. Just becuase they are burning a flag, smokin dope, having abortions, worshipping Budda, being gay, or kicking a hacky sack, doesn't mean they are physically wimpy. Actually, this has been realized. Thats why some conservatives joined groups like the KKK and the NRA. This way they can bully people around in groups and not get their butts kicked. Personally, I believe that both liberals and conservatives are both wrong and right in some cases. Both sides have valid arguments, of which their is a lot of arguing. But in the meantime, the truth, whatever it is, gets shoved under the rug. Both sides have a lot of power, and they get that power by taking extreme sides. It is like two parents fighting. The parents are the conservatives and the liberals, and the country is the little kid stuck in the middle of it all.
