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About Alyosha

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  • Birthday 11/26/2017


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    State of permanent confusion
  1. Static Point conditions?

    Hmm... I've never tried slab climbing with my ice axe. Thanks for the beta! Too bad it's not in yet...
  2. Has anyone been to Static Point recently? Was the gate open? Was the road snow-free? Thanks!
  3. Condition of road/trail to Static Point?

    Great, thanks for all the pointers! And, DCramer, I didn't really have firm plans as to what route(s): if I am feeling timid, I might just "sample" a lower pitch or two and rappel off. Was there a reason you were asking?
  4. Has anyone been to Static Point this season? Is the road/trail affected by the latest round of washouts from this autumn/winter? Is the description of how to get there in the "Sky Valley Rock" guidebook still (somewhat) accurate? Thanks!
  5. Three of us are going to Squamish this weekend, and are looking for a fourth. We're all pretty new to the sport, so we'll probably be climbing 5.6s and 5.7s (maybe 5.8s, if things are going well). Ideally, we would like to find a fourth person who can lead (sport and trad) at about that level. The plan is to leave town Friday(today) afternoon, and come back Sunday evening. If interested, email me: zhenya@freeshell.org, or call my cell: 425-417-9117.
  6. Found a trekking pole in Boston Basin, just below Quien Sabe Glacier. The rightful owner should be able to describe it.
  7. Index routes

    Well, you don't _have_ to rappel the route, if you climb GNS, do you? You could walk up and right, and rappel off "The Terrace Rappel station", no? I haven't found a way to do the second rappel with anything shorter than a 60m rope, and it's a bit exciting even with a 60m (I was glad I had knotted the ends), but I lived, and so did my partners.
  8. X-38 for beginner

    In addition to Gritscone, Squishy Bell (also in the Far Side area) is entirely top-ropeable. Unlike Gritscone, which is entirely under tree canopy, Squishy Bell is open to the winds, and faces East/South, so it might be dryer; it certainly is sunnier. It's about 20 minutes' hike from the parking area (If you follow the trail that goes past High Point, and Eastern Block, once you hit the talus field, skirt along its lower/left edge, until you see the trail that goes left of the talus field, and takes you to Squishy Bell: the trail is not obscure, or particularly faint, but is a lot easier to find once you've seen it once, and can be missed the first time around). Write-off-Rock in the Deception Crags area can be top-roped, after you lead the really short and easy 5.5 (Exit 38 rating) on the left. FWIW, I thought that 5.5 was a nice, gentle first sport lead. It may be possible to scramble to the top of Write-off-Rock, but I suspect that'd actually be harder than leading the 5.5 on the left. Write-off-Rock is about five to eight minutes' walk from the Deception Crags parking lot. Beware of credit card stealing car-prowling shysters when you go to Exit 38: take your wallet with you to the base of the climb.
  9. Beginner areas at Squamish?

    I have two separate questions, really. First, what areas/routes in Squamish would you recommend for a first sport lead? Second, what areas/routes would you recommend for easy(5.6-ish) trad, preferably multi-pitch? (The person looking to do the first sport lead is different from the person looking to do easy trad). Thanks
  10. Good beginner areas at Smith Rock?

    We ended up doing Super Slab and Moscow (so, we aren't fast). We both liked the Super Slab much more than the athletic Moscow. A #4 Friend worked very nicely in the wide crack near the top of Moscow. Thanks, Alex, for suggesting we bring something in that range. Also, thanks for the route suggestions, everyone. I guess we'll have to go back and try them (wouldn't that be a chore! )
  11. leavenworth camping

    You could call the Leavenworth Ranger station at 509-548-6977, and ask. My recollection is that individual sites are first-come, first-served, and that they aren't "officially" open until April 15th.
  12. Good beginner areas at Smith Rock?

    I'll be going to Smith next Monday (the 12th). My partner is looking to lead 5.7-5.8ish trad; I am looking to lead 5.5-5.6ish trad. Routes that protect nicely would be preferable, obviously. Could someone suggest which area(s) at Smith we should try? Thank you
  13. double bowline?

    Neat, thank you. I feel edufied.
  14. double bowline?

    Someone mentioned a "double bowline" (apparently abbreviated DBBB) in another thread. Dr. Flash Amazing had even posted a link, but the link was broken. Would someone please post a link/picture of the "DBBB" that isn't broken? Alternatively, if you think you can explain in text how to tie the "DBBB" to someone who knows how to tie a regular bowline and a bowline-on-a-bight, that'd work too. I googled for "DBBB bowline" and found nothing besides this thread. So, I googled for "double bowline" , and the most promising-looking thing I found was this: double bowline page But I thought double bowline, as shown on that page was weaker than the figure-eight (because the rope makes a sharper bend)? Or is the "DBBB" the "Water Bowline" or the "Zeppelin Loop"? Thanks
  15. How do you clip your belay biner to your harness?

    The blurb by the Black Diamond guy was actually quite informative (for me, anyways). Thanks for pointing me to it. Also, thanks to everyone who posted to date. It was nice to hear some arguments pro and con besides "my friends do it that way."