Bill_Simpkins

Got any ideas? I need a partner. I have a gig the night before until 2 am,so no Alpine starts. I can get up around 5-6 am. Rock, Alpine, hiking.

I have a set of Rigid Friends, Tech Friends, DMM 3CU's, and Black Diamonds. Yes, the BD's are heavier, but a rack of BD's with the same range is lighter than a rack of Rigid Friends and takes up less room in the pack. Plus, the range on the BD's is so good that you can get a couple of them is a same size crack. With the Friends, your screwed unless you bring doubles. Plus the #1 Forged Friend is practically useless because of the cam lobe to stem size ratio. So breaking it down: BD's from 19.6-87.4 mm are 706 grams with 5 cams Forged Friends from 19-82 mm are 720 grams with 6 cams. Plus the BD's overlap in sizes a bit, are flexible, take up less pack space, easier to place and can be placed in passive mode. The forged friends are good for doubles in the larger sizes and the #4 Friend is a good alternative to a 3.5 or 4 BD. And the argument that you get more cams for the weight with the forged friends doesn't hold up with me. Since the range on the BD's is much greater, you can usually get the ones you have left into a placement, the Friends are so picky about sizing that I always get to the belay with a bunch still on the rack. What I do like FF's for a lot is on routes that only require one or two placements and you know the size before hand. Then, you can save a lot of weight. If anyone wants to buy a #1 Forged Friend let me know. I like the bigger sizes for doubles. I think I am going to sell the larger sizes of my Tech Friends, like #1-4. They are in good shape. I like the smaller ones and the #6 ! I also want to add that more cams = more biners=even more weight. You can't just consider the cams weight, but also must consider the biners, unless you rack on one biner. So with Trango Superflys which are 30g a piece: BD's from 19.6-87.4 mm are 706+5(30)=856 grams with 5 cams and 5 biners. Forged Friends from 19-82 mm are 720*6(30)=900 grams with 6 cams and 6 biners. That’s a difference of 44 grams which is about an oz and a half. Actually, that’s pretty nitpicky, I guess. Oh well. FYI.

I've been very happy with my Marmot LightSpeed. I only bring a hardshell if the weather looks totally crappy. Otherwise I prefer a softshell. 1 lb 6 oz, $400. Got it for $175 at Seirra Trading Post 2 years ago.

I guess everyone is selling their souls these days.

I sold my Tiblocs, but they worked just fine for Ascending. I would practice a few times first with them. Go for it!

FYI. RMI also guides on other routes like Success Cleaver and Liberty Ridge.

I have a rack of Trango Superflys (30g) and a rack of BD Neutrinos(36g). The Trangos actually feel more "better". I love them. I have them on my alpine draws too with 48", 24" and 12" Mammut Dyneema.

That works good too but then you have to do the Dulfersitz to get down. Is burning in the crotch DFA's style?

I have the Mammut Alpine light harness. It rules. You can buy it at Uhartrescue.com. It's not made of the method Jens explained, but is an awsome alpine harness ( one of the lightest) superior to the BD Alpine Bod. Takes up very little room and very easy to use and is functional.

How many accidents have you read this year from people not bringing proper gear? I stand to be corrected, but every accident report I've read this year were of people that had sufficient equipment. I am not suggesting that less is better, but maybe some are more focused crossing ice in sandels than in boots. I usually bring what's required, but sometimes I misjudge and have to turn around or just go for it. I've had many payoffs from packing very light, more successes AND more failures. It didn't sound in the TR like it was such a big deal. They hung out and fished after they came off! Suprise bivies happen all the time, what's the big deal?

I have fallen on these. I weigh 205 lbs. I have no fear climbing with them. However, I do not sling rocks with them.

I only where them in snow. However, when I do where them I use the short Black Diamonds. They are super nice. When there is deep snow I use full size OR's.

Yeah, this sucks. The difference in glacier cover in the cascades is very visible. At least we won't have pack in the crampons for late summer outings. On a side note: A lot of conservatives disagree that humans are causing this, so in their minds,we can just go right ahead and drive our oversized pickups. However, to me it does not matter so much. Isn't this disgusting, stinky air we have to breathe every day now worth making a change and making small sacrifices? End of side note.

They should allow old people, say above 60, to volunteer to fight on the front lines or something. Deactivate mines, etc... Is that morbid? I'd rather go fast.

Thank You!

They are not only used FOR rock, they are used TOO rock! (hehe)

Well said. At crags you can usually lower off a piece, hike to the top and get your gear back. In der mountains, sometimes you have to get to the top to get down.

This was one of my first glacier climbs way back when.... Most people in our group were not that experienced. It took 15 hours car to car. I think it took 3-4 hours to the camp part way up the glacier. We screwed around a lot and had bad equipment, heavy packs and the the wrong clothes. I'm sure now the whole thing would take less time.

I will be with a group of 3 in Sqaumish. May want to do a couple multi-pitches with one person.

Almost free medical care:

... interesting. Land of the free, home of the brave ...

bivy kit:

I have the same problem. IT band. The trekking poles help, but does not solve the problem. The cause of mine was in the way I rolled off of my foot. Pay attention to how your walking. I just started doing this and noticed that I was putting lots of pressure on my little toes, and me knee would roll. When I step off and put most of the pressure on my big toe, my knee doesn't roll as much. It hurts worse when I have my chair too low at the office. I had my desk raised a few inches so I could raise my chair and that helped a bunch. My advice is to think about how your walking on the way up, so it doesn't hurt on the way down. Keep your knees warm, use poles to aid on the big step ups, avoid high steps, make sure you don't use the same leg on all the high steps, pack light, sit at the correct height and see a foot doctor. There are special stretches that help too, but you must be religious about them.

This was a pretty good impression.

health insurance = not sick? Yer insuring your life, just as you'd insure your car, or your house, or your health. car insurance = insure car. Health insurance=insure health life insurance=insure life? but your already dead. fire insurance= explain that one. flood insurance? They call it life insurance because they sell less if it was called death insurance. Too gloomy. In any case, good luck with your endevours. Hope you find a good deal.