Bill_Simpkins

Like they said, get up on the buttress and out of the gulleys early, there is a lot of stuff coming down now when the sun hits its.

I am very very bummed about Base Camp closing. I have been going there for years and purchasing gear, even if I know the price is higher. Why? Because I was paying for EXPERT customer service and experience. Each one of those guys or gals in there was pretty hardcore. You had fastpackers, old timers, you name it. They only carried gear that they liked and used themselves. You had their personal stamp of approval on all of it. I'm sorry that Frank, Doug and everyone else lost a place to work. If I would have known it was in such trouble, I would have never set foot in any other store. I just wonder what all these folks are going to do now. Sorry. I'll be there on Wed. to say bye and buy a few things.

I would reccommend Squish. The friction is nice and there is a lot of variety. I like Index, but the rock feels a bit greasy to me to choose it over Squish if I only had one day.

Go up Clear Creek to aviod the crowds. Non technical. Very quiet. The moon shines bright on the route, if it's out. 6-8 hours to the summit from the car.

Sounds fun!

Me too. And tricams. And stacked stoppers in weird configurations (if desperate).

Get your ass to up here and we'll go up some REAL mountains!

Yes there is a gate about 2 km from the trailhead. It is locked all weekend.

Drove to the last switchback before the trailhead. The gate opens around seven and is locked about 4:30 pm, weekdays. The trail seemed sketchy for the first thirty feet but then was really nice and well marked the rest of the way. It was a steep trail but very enjoyable in the forests and next to the large granite cliffs at the bottom of Illusion peaks. There is good water at the creek about 1/2 hour to 1 hour from the trailhead, and plenty of snow to melt up by camp. The approach to high camp took us about 3 hours. An ice axe was not needed, can aviod most snow on boulders. You may want an axe if going up Mt. Rexford to get up the first gully. The North ridge of the spire was pretty dirty, some route finding and low fifth class moves. Did a running belay. The summit and decent were more enjoyable, I thought. Some class 3 and option rappells to speed it up. RT from camp took 5 hours, which included much dillydallying on the summit. We camped on a large flat boulder by the noll. Nice night. Bring deet for the sqeeters though. The next day we planned on doing Rexford, but we didn't want to push the clock getting back to the gate, because we could have been locked in all weekend. So we hiked down to the cliffs by the trail and did some toproping on some slabs until I ran out of water. Will try and post photos soon.

Dan's got a point there.

The tree prevented getting the rope caught in Libra Crack when pulling. Bummer.

Good idea! I will consider that. All we plan to do for now is passive observation with cameras.

Let's do a sting in Bellingham soon with a digital camera, during the late afternoon. We can set some bate. We'll discuss privately another area. Hopefully the people doing it arn't cc.com 'ers. PM me if you want to set up a time for B'ham.

1st pullout past the old enterance.

Me and my girlfriend were bouldering at Larabee today from 3:30 to 5:30. Her car was broken into and her stereo among other things were stolen. I'm sick of hearing about theft and vandalism at trailheads and such. It is becoming more and more common. We are easy targets, considering how long we are away from our cars. When I'm out doing something cool in the Cascades, the last thing I want to worry about is the car. If there is anyone else who feels the same as me and wants to try and do something about it, PM me. -Bill

...

I agree with you on the Twin Spires. That would be tough. I like Beckey's Depot Creek approach: "Where rock is slippery from spray, climb over wet boulders to a platform at the waterfall's base, then go to its left side. A hole in berry bushes leads to a talus slope." ??? I looks like a RT Cathedral could be done in a day, if a good pace was maintained via Wall Creek. 8 hours to lakes, 1.5 to summit, 1.5 back to lakes 7 back to car. May depend on trail conditions. ???

Try this: It's worth a look.

We did Shasta last year this time in tennis shoes via clear creek. Less crowds. car to car in 10 hours. Just crampons and axe. plus normal hiking stuff. Started "feeling it" at around 12,500 ft. Very enjoyable. We didn't push too hard but we weren't slacking off either. We didn't bring helmets for clear creek, but I would bring one on Avalanche Gulch.

Arrrrrr. I Greybeard be there to Arrrrrrr.

I am sick of break-ins. I've said it before about the North Twin lot. I will stake out these spots if anyone wants to help cath these guys. Just sit out and get there license number and / or hold them until cops arrive. I think theives need to know that its not ok. I don't want to be afraid to leave my car in a lot while out and about. Please PM me if interested. Another idea is to get volunteers to hang out at the lots, or have a gate and card-swipe system to access the roads, paid for by the forrest pass fee we already pay.

Toptimmy. Nice Avatar.

Me and a partner were thinking about hitting Luna up after doing Challenger. Any beta on that idea?

I've been wanting to get up that peak for a long time. Looks mellow, but the peak has always looked cool. Lets go!