Bill_Simpkins

Does anyone know if there has ever been a second ascent of Northwest Passage 5.9, A3 in Sqaumish? And what the condition of the route is in and if anyone has a detailed topo. I have vague topos from the two sqaumish books. I heard that the brush has grown in a lot since the first ascent, but thats all I know. I'm going to do some recon with a telescope this weekend. Any info is appreciated.

Salmon la sac

1. Jump 2. Swallow one end of the rope and, well you know......

Bouldering at Larrabee (Bellingham) during a bad storm. We were right by the water and the waves would hit a rock and splash us. We were trying to send this one problem and we had to time the entrance by dodging waves. The wind was ripp'in. Then there was a good stormy sunset to top things off.

Well, it's too late now. Us American's have more important things to do like Oprah and SUV's. The Earth is a giant engine and when something goes a little wrong and throws it out of equilibrium, we see drastic changes in weather before we see a siqnificant rise in temperature. The weather has been a little nuts, but it's too soon to tell. What gets me is even if there is no global warming, isn't it enough that the air is just nasty? It's disgusting. I'll be on some peak in tin-buck-two and see smog everywhere. We breath that crap all the time. That is a problem thats right in front of everyone's faces and I can't beleive that more isn't being done about it. What comes around goes around and the Earth will turn without us.

Yeah, just got to be a little more careful with the spectra, but it works fine. An extra wrap on the prussik knot of choice usually does the trick.

Clean aided cracks at Larrabee in the rain on Saturday, then played lots of pool. Hiked up Mt. Pilchuck and had band practice today.

Thanks Jason. I think everyone that climbs should learn basic rescue techniques. If you ask around at a crag, you would be suprised how many people don't know how to tie a munter hitch or a clove hitch or rig a carabiner brake, non the less tie a prussik or rescue a partner. For example, what if they drop their ATC? Well I have done that, and no worries because I've rapped with a munter hitch 10,000 times before that happened. Some have knowledge but I found it few and far between. Yeah, it kind of takes the fun out a little for some, but it can also make you more comforable in a fix. And some you can take advantage of when there is no fix, like leaving the ATC at home in the mountains and using munters to save weight. That would be great if we all encouraged others to learn rescue and alternative methods, because it can only benefit.

Ignorance is bliss until reality hits. Cheers.

You know what's really obtuse? Egos.

Boston Peak, Hayden Peak, Larrabee Peak

I bailed on the hills this weekend. We decided to go down to Larrabee in B'ham and clean aid all the sandstone cracks in the wind and rain by the sea. Fun stuff, 1st class. They are short, but better than watching CNN . Most of the cracks can be done free, but it's something good to do when your desperate in bad weather. I reccommend: Railroad Dihedral and Desperation Crack. There are others. Grab some Jo at Tony's when your done . Or a brew at Boundary Bay . We'll be down there somewhere if you want a tour.

Nope, didn't work. I was close but the rope twist was massive. This will be my next project. Thanks for the info.

I have an idea, let me see if it works.............. I'll try it off my porch.

Hauling the victem up would only work if you placed no pro . Good idea though, thanks.

12 quickdraws 11 quadcams 10 BD nuetrinos 9 mm twin rope 8 spectra shoulder length slings 7 Days of dry rock 6 Black Butte Porters 5 10 Anasazi's 4 Runner SR5 3 casual girlfriends(one in city, one that climbs, one to meet the parents) 2 more locking biners 1 Big Pizza!

I'm not a newbie, but I have a nagging question: How do you decend a weighted, tight, rope efficiently with standard gear, no Grigri ? My first guess, which works, is to use two prussiks and " goe in reverse ", but that is very timely. Any other tricks out there? --I was working on rescue techniques for an unconsious follower and one rope on a multipitch.

cool, free stars, what about free ?

Avi lookes bad, its dumping up there at Shuksan . If your itching to get out at all, Pillchuck can burn a couple hours in the winter, in almost any weather. Easy but very accessible for the quick fix. Also another good one for winter is North Twin, West Ridge. I've done that one in a blizzard.

Does anyone have any beta on the small Van Zandt cliffs near Bellingham? They are at the end of Potter Rd. off of Highway 9 between the Mt. Baker Hwy and Sedro. I read in a book somewhere a while ago that there are routes on them. I was out there today scoping it out, but I didn't want to blaze a trail through someones yard.

Here's my personality test: Mayonaise or miracle whip? Lucky Charms or Fruit Loops? Ford or Chevy?

BELLINGHAM! BELLINGHAM! BELLINGHAM! Close to Sqaumish, lots of good sandstone bouldering at Larrabee, close to cascades, snoboarding or skiing at Baker,Vancouver, Seattle. High-speed internet, , .

view the attachment

Looks good enough for me. Except for the approach could be a long one if breaking trail, and the avi conditions. Watch out for the .

This topic looked a little empty so I thought I would talk about my trip up Shasta in the Summer to offer some beta. We left for the Clear Creek Route at 12:30 am on July 1st and had a very easy summit around 8 am or so. The only downer was the altitude gain. I think it was from 6000' to 14,100'. In short, about 8000' in 7 hours . The route was non-technical. In fact it was a glorified hike with an ice axe. There was a trail most of the way, however it was easier to stay on the hard snow. The whole time was very nice, and the views were great. Highly recommended over the Avalanche Gulche Route because we were the only ones on the Clear Creek Route and we met 30 or so people at the summit . We felt like we had the whole SE side to ourselves. We had time left in the day to drive to Lake Tahoe . [ 11-18-2002, 08:28 PM: Message edited by: Bill Simpkins ]