Bill_Simpkins

Going light doesn't prevent anyone from doing anything, or compromise their safety, we just learn how to do more, with less. But if it takes a 100 pound pack to get the job done, then buck it up. I have a climbing partner that is 65 years old. On every climb we've done, he wears an old pair of leather hiking boots, uses a small Jansport book bag, wraps his crampons in an old vest starpped to the top, carries his home-made ice axe in his hand, brings nylon wind/rain wear, and carries two small water bottles that he fills up in creeks and with snow. He usually eats raisins and apples. He's bagged countless cool peaks and doesn't talk about it unless you bring it up. He moves like the wind across the sketchiest terrain. He has a really good sense of what he is comfortable with and what he can do. I've picked some things up from him, but the most important things I've learned is that you can handle a little more than you think you can, and to turn around when you don't feel good. Some other things I picked up: You can travel through thick brush quickly without beating yourself up. You can go through scree without getting rocks in your shoes. You can traverse wet heather fast without slipping. I never purify my water anymore, and I have never gotten sick. I threw half the crap out of my pack. Walking fast is less suffering than walking slow. Plus much more. He even learned one or two tricks from a young buck like me! These arn't things that are taught in books, nor could I explain them to anyone. It's called.........get this people............experience. I can't wait to get old! --addition: I think too many people these days are getting wrapped up in gear before they ever get out there and be human and use the tools that took millions of years of research and development. You arms, your legs, your heart, your brain, and your instinct. I think people should learn to use those first before they go out and buy any gear.

Nice job! However, every piece is back-clipped! But I did way worse on my first lead. The pro looks good. keep it up. -Nevermind, I was hallucinating when i looked at the pic. The first is clipped fine. The second looks back-clipped. Long day.

"Get a crash pad on that rock below him immediately!" On a serious note: Just put yourself in their position. Imagine NEVER looking at rock in such a way as to climb it before. You have to teach from the very start. Just getting used to it. It could be a BIG deal for some people. The instructor should have told her to take the gaitors off. There is no need to wear them to "get used" to them. There is no major adjustment period for them. It's like wearing a condom when your jerking off.

The main route is to the right and around to the north. I've been up the center part, with a belay. Rapped off the summit slings and then a piton with a 30 m rope.

I'm glad he's ok. I hope they work out their money and I hope noone took his stuff. I played in a band with his brother, back in the day. There was someone else a few years back that died from the same thing on the same snowfield. It's good to take every step as if your going to slip. Everyone take care out there.

I have one and I love it. Never had a problem with it.

Tried to get back there two years ago. I asked a bunch of locals about the rock and they said it was all just loose chossy sandstone. Just scree and weathered chunks. As far as access, I was told to park in someones driveway and hike down to the beach, then stay on the beach for a mile and a half going south and there you are. If you plan on going out, give me a PM. I love treasure hunting.

Sounds like a good way to save weight on those alpine routes. What I do for that is rack 2-3 cams on one biner, 5 total, #1-#3 stoppers, every other size to # 12, pink and red tri-cam on one biner, carry about five, 2-biner slings on the harness, and a couple of 1 biner slings on chest, 2 rabbit runners with one biner around chest. Sometimes I girth hitch the cams, depends on the gear left. I've even had to girth hitch a stopper a few times because I ran out of gear. I don't carry a belay device, I use a munter hitch on Petzl Attache for belaying, a doubled up munter hitch for Rappelling, and I usually use a 8.3 mm rope, 30m or 60 m, depending on route. Keep in mind this is my setup for 4th class-low 5th. Sometimes I throw in a # 3.5 cam, or just carry tricams instead of cams.

In order of easy to hardest, but they are all easy: -Cheam and Lady Peak(B.C.), Cheam is a hike on a trail, Lady is class 2-3 right next to it. Both easily done in a day. Close to the Sumas border. -Mt. Watson, nice romp on East side of Baker lake. Road takes you to 4600 ft. (I think). Summit is like 6000 ( I think). Bring an ice axe, I've rapped off it, but you could probably scramble down without a problem. -Ruth -Sahale -Tomyhoi, mostly a hike, some route fining and class 3-4 loose rock. -Larrabee, 3-7 hours RT, lots of loose scrambling but very nice surroundings. Take Helmet.

Sex is like wine, you give it a smell test before tasting.

-Set of nuts, double on smalls. -pink, red and brown tricam -Friends #00-4 -DMM 3CU purple and green, smallest -sometimes the three blueish tricams After Monday, I'll probably throw in a couple of small hexes to help double up on the mid-sized nut placements.

I agree with you on the deviation thing. It can be a little frustrating. F

Yes, I agree. Erie is dry most of the time when others are not. Plus, if it does rain, the wind blasts the rock dry pretty fast. Some of the routes though are somehwat sketchy, even an easy grade can get you. I spent way too much time dilly-dallying up a couple "easy" routes because of bad pro and no clear route in sight. The adventure factor was kind of fun though.

One of my partners hates gear slings, and it takes all day to do a route. He gets all funny feeling and starts whining when you ask him to use one. He can't stand stuff over his shoulders. So when I climb with him, I don't expect speed, I just have fun. With him I try not to do things that require a tite schedule, or swinging leads. I think that when climbing with other people, one should know how and be willing to climb in "standard" procedure if your partner requests it. Doing anything thing else is just whining. If a small sacrifice will make the machine run smoother, then buck up and carry a gear sling. Sometimes if I have a route down well, i.e., only bring the pro I need, I'll rack on the harness, because theres only like a biner with some slings, stoppers and a couple cams(for example), and it's nice climbing with no weight up top . However, a "standard" rack is more efficiently carried on gear slings, when swinging leads. That is my opinion, I have spoken.

ok..ok... thanks unable to edit post, here it goes again.

Mt. Erie Climbing Gradesrated stiff by old mountain hardmen (i.e. 5.6 is Sqaumish 5.8)You suck Bill! Your just rusty and need to get out more.Rock is just different. Grades seem "normal" when you've adjusted to the rock.

I'm sorry you two saw that. I think you did the right thing. But still I understand how you feel helpless. Life is fragile. Accidents like that help the rest of us see that, and help us realize how important the other people in our lives are. Take care. Eat a grilled cheese sandwich.

When reeling is appropriate: I've had to reel about 3 times, and sitting down and pulling gave me what I needed. The pulling and lock-off was one motion. The motion was like an arch with a straight arm from the ATC around to behind my rear-end. This accompianied with sitting down can give quite a bit of take in the rope. Watch out for swinging into the wall though. I've only reeled on sport climbs at Vantage with small falls. Practice makes better. Put on your harness, bust out your rope, and play with it. Make sure your neighbors arn't watching. I think the trick is to have clear communication with the climber about ledges, etc.. and have it thought out ahead of time what the best thing to do, and be prepared with your plan. Ask you partner what his piece above the ledge is like. If you have an omni anchor at the start, running may help, if there is time. But I don't know about that one. Never done that.

I usually go past Leavenworth a couple miles towads Peshastin and take a left onto a Cayon something Road. The turnoff is in the Peshastin Pinnacle area. Something like that. It goes through some residential then up into the hills. There are some side roads with pullouts and places to camp about 5-10 miles up it. Free.

I was on Colman Pinnacle last week too. Then went up almost to the Portals. There were some Canadians heading up the Park Glacier Route.

I saw the path too. Looks good around that area. Looked like some slots to negotiate right before camp at the Portals. Everything looked pretty much open up. The headwall looked slightly cornassed from my vantage point, but I could be wrong. The steep part at the end of the Cockscome route (right of the head) looked pretty icy but didn't appear to be cornassed. The approach is in good condition.

I can do whatever. I have gear and wheels. You name it, I'll tell you if I can do it or not. My suggestions are Arrowtip Tower and Block Tower, Ruth and Icy, cragging or hiking. I live in Bellingham, I have to be back at 6 pm for band practice. Arrowtip and Block on ridge below. Just short little things. Maybe do more while up there. Read Beckey Vol. 3 page 45

Early last summer I was trying to find the way into Boot Lake in the Sisters Range from the East side. On the way back I saw something bright blue in the bushes down in a gulley by a creek. I thought I should check it out because it resembled a jacket from a distance and could have been a body or something. I wacked through neddles and forded the small creek to find......a party balloon. Oh well.

I agree. Last time at Muir, the Climbing Ranger told Dan the weather was going to be pretty bad and told me to go for it. You must have had that crazy look in your eye. Swissman: I got to tell you that not many people would not take you seriously, including myself. The Climbing Rangers are up there a lot more than all of us. They've more than likely seen rescues and lots of crazy people. They also probably have an ok feel for the weather and the people that are going up. Yes some probably think they are hotshots, but still, they probably have a good feel for the mountain. Give'em a break.

I'll bet that they'll through in an outhouse so they can charge.