Bill_Simpkins

I got one of these too. I love it. Very light. Takes a beating. Takes good pictures. Good battery life. I have one complaint, and that is that the battery "door" doesn't latch very securly. I put a piece of tape over these when I'm out on the rock and its fine. I highly reccomend this camera.

Good call. Climbing is fun. So are

Fine to hold onto draws if your working the route or just trying to get up, not fine if going for free ascent. I think it's ok to grab the chains at the top.

That's a funny site. Someone had a lot of time on their hands.

Leavenworth? Sqaumish? Erie?

Nice try though! Yeah Dru, that looks like 30-40 degree snow.

Hey Potty-Mouth. Do you work for RMI? Do you speak to the clients that way? Do you also regularly make disparaging comments about "independent climbers" as many RMI guides do? I know a a few climbers off hand who have only made it up because of the cattle paths and/or following RMI up in bad weather. My main climbing buddy is an RMI guide. These things are true. There ARE some indepentent climbers that only make it to the top from RMI traffic. I don't think it is being disrespectful at all. Those indepentent climbers that I know said first hand they only made it up because of RMI.

Sneaky! If a deer can't hear that, I don't suspect a human could. That picture is a little sobering!

Got any ideas? I need a partner. I have a gig the night before until 2 am,so no Alpine starts. I can get up around 5-6 am. Rock, Alpine, hiking.

I have a set of Rigid Friends, Tech Friends, DMM 3CU's, and Black Diamonds. Yes, the BD's are heavier, but a rack of BD's with the same range is lighter than a rack of Rigid Friends and takes up less room in the pack. Plus, the range on the BD's is so good that you can get a couple of them is a same size crack. With the Friends, your screwed unless you bring doubles. Plus the #1 Forged Friend is practically useless because of the cam lobe to stem size ratio. So breaking it down: BD's from 19.6-87.4 mm are 706 grams with 5 cams Forged Friends from 19-82 mm are 720 grams with 6 cams. Plus the BD's overlap in sizes a bit, are flexible, take up less pack space, easier to place and can be placed in passive mode. The forged friends are good for doubles in the larger sizes and the #4 Friend is a good alternative to a 3.5 or 4 BD. And the argument that you get more cams for the weight with the forged friends doesn't hold up with me. Since the range on the BD's is much greater, you can usually get the ones you have left into a placement, the Friends are so picky about sizing that I always get to the belay with a bunch still on the rack. What I do like FF's for a lot is on routes that only require one or two placements and you know the size before hand. Then, you can save a lot of weight. If anyone wants to buy a #1 Forged Friend let me know. I like the bigger sizes for doubles. I think I am going to sell the larger sizes of my Tech Friends, like #1-4. They are in good shape. I like the smaller ones and the #6 ! I also want to add that more cams = more biners=even more weight. You can't just consider the cams weight, but also must consider the biners, unless you rack on one biner. So with Trango Superflys which are 30g a piece: BD's from 19.6-87.4 mm are 706+5(30)=856 grams with 5 cams and 5 biners. Forged Friends from 19-82 mm are 720*6(30)=900 grams with 6 cams and 6 biners. That’s a difference of 44 grams which is about an oz and a half. Actually, that’s pretty nitpicky, I guess. Oh well. FYI.

I've been very happy with my Marmot LightSpeed. I only bring a hardshell if the weather looks totally crappy. Otherwise I prefer a softshell. 1 lb 6 oz, $400. Got it for $175 at Seirra Trading Post 2 years ago.

I guess everyone is selling their souls these days.

I sold my Tiblocs, but they worked just fine for Ascending. I would practice a few times first with them. Go for it!

FYI. RMI also guides on other routes like Success Cleaver and Liberty Ridge.

I have a rack of Trango Superflys (30g) and a rack of BD Neutrinos(36g). The Trangos actually feel more "better". I love them. I have them on my alpine draws too with 48", 24" and 12" Mammut Dyneema.

That works good too but then you have to do the Dulfersitz to get down. Is burning in the crotch DFA's style?

I have the Mammut Alpine light harness. It rules. You can buy it at Uhartrescue.com. It's not made of the method Jens explained, but is an awsome alpine harness ( one of the lightest) superior to the BD Alpine Bod. Takes up very little room and very easy to use and is functional.

How many accidents have you read this year from people not bringing proper gear? I stand to be corrected, but every accident report I've read this year were of people that had sufficient equipment. I am not suggesting that less is better, but maybe some are more focused crossing ice in sandels than in boots. I usually bring what's required, but sometimes I misjudge and have to turn around or just go for it. I've had many payoffs from packing very light, more successes AND more failures. It didn't sound in the TR like it was such a big deal. They hung out and fished after they came off! Suprise bivies happen all the time, what's the big deal?

I have fallen on these. I weigh 205 lbs. I have no fear climbing with them. However, I do not sling rocks with them.

I only where them in snow. However, when I do where them I use the short Black Diamonds. They are super nice. When there is deep snow I use full size OR's.

Yeah, this sucks. The difference in glacier cover in the cascades is very visible. At least we won't have pack in the crampons for late summer outings. On a side note: A lot of conservatives disagree that humans are causing this, so in their minds,we can just go right ahead and drive our oversized pickups. However, to me it does not matter so much. Isn't this disgusting, stinky air we have to breathe every day now worth making a change and making small sacrifices? End of side note.

They should allow old people, say above 60, to volunteer to fight on the front lines or something. Deactivate mines, etc... Is that morbid? I'd rather go fast.

Thank You!

They are not only used FOR rock, they are used TOO rock! (hehe)

Well said. At crags you can usually lower off a piece, hike to the top and get your gear back. In der mountains, sometimes you have to get to the top to get down.