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Everything posted by billcoe
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How far is that really?
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All the 5.11s with a few exceptions here and there which I'm sure were just missed (Adreneline in Yos and Sunshine at Smith), were downgraded to 5.10 when it was learned I could do them. It was pretty humorous for a while. now I'm fat and old and don't care. It's fun to get out and do anything at any grade, proves I'm still alive anyway. I love those kinds of stories though. Like: Stranger: "Hey dude, heres the acid you loaned me": Me: "WTF?! Huh?......Really I loaned YOU? ?" Stranger: "Yes, thanks SOOOOO much dude, it was amazing and awesome, you rock, here ya go back to ya with interest." Glory halleluja, bonanza days.
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You are a brave, brave man. I am shocked that anyone has any faith in any of the aliens on their rack.... seriously, if a company is sending unswaged crap out the door, in the midst of a deadly serious recall, why trust anything they've ever made? My life deserves real QC...... __________________________________________________________ Well, I think JH said it earlier. We we first started out, we climbed on plenty of crap. We would use 5mm perlon cord on nuts (tests to what? 1000 lbs new on a good day?, thread our own nuts with wire and no nicopress swedge, just epoxy to hold the ends on. Hell, I had a friend make some nuts out of a plastic frying pan handle he cut into pieces. (you know who you are don't make me out you). AND USED THEM. Well, I used them too when leading with said rack. My first carabiners tested to 1800 lbs. New. So, I'll climb with Aliens still....carefully and prudently. It is a small- tiny, in fact: percentage of their gear which is crap, and I'll try to do some testing beforehand (funking or jumping on) for what thats worth. I don't think it is a brave thing, or a stupid thing...just a thing. Show up and use Opdykes rack sometime to see what that's all about. He's got 25 year + old carabiners that would test out NEW, to 2000 lbs and slings older than you probably are. His safety margin is in his mental state and capacity. The gear is there for if and when that fails. Course, knowing this, I bring my rack, with new Wild country Heliums which test to easily double what his did, and they are new as well, etc etc. But that's me and my thoughts.
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You have not said where you were. Was it in fact Skinners Butte? I suspect not. Where were you really?
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yeah, some nice pics. Does pic 16 look like he has a single rope clipped as a trail line and no other? Anyhow, it's hard enough to climb something like that, kudos for finding some 5 star pics. Also, a5, the one bolt you mention looks like it comes right before a flake wedged into the rock which could be loose. Hard to armchair quarterback something 4000 miles away. MO anyway. take care all: B
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DFA: I figure that your attitude will improve dramatically once you realize that he did the sit start to Fitroy. Nice to see somebody getting it done. (Insert envy comment here)
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Well you obviously didn't get Toasts memo wherin he says anyone who say "Jap" Gardens instead of Japanese Gardens is a racist. The he yelled at me cause I disagreed. Course, my wife is Japanese ancestry, and 2nd son has both Japanese and American citizenship, but I'm a racist against these people because I think people who say Jap gardens are just trying to shorten the word, like we all do with IMO and BTW. Like that. Course I'm not moving out of the house I don't care what he says. I'll try not to be so lazy to shorten any of the wrong words but I can't promise since I'm so damn lazy as part of my genetic makeup. However, (back on topic) GLAD TO HEAR that all it caused was your friend not sending and not something more severe........ like uhhhh.....death or full time quad ala Steve Reeves, also an inconvenience. The deal is, CCH is suppose to be pull testing all (like in 100% of the) cams coming out of the CCH shop now. Soooo, wus up wid dat?
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Damn, that sucks to hear. I'd like to be suspicious since I don't know you and you didn't identify your friend either.....but I really have little faith left in CCH. Could you supply more details? This cam did not have the dimple and failed in a new manner..damn.
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I say "go for it ladies"! why should the young ones be the only ones going nuts for Mardi Gras?
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Man, I'm still pumped from climbing at club milf on Tue. Got to see Gent and Craig, those guys don't mess around! Love that wall.
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Like do you have some extra room in your basement?
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What did I tell you 'bout smokin that stuff?
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Did anybody check the Bachelor Travis link in his profile?
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I think you are all very kind in not directing him to Pope or Dwayner.
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Counterpoint: Well, there are skills and then there are skills: Bet your keyboarding skills are awesome!
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Thanks for sharing Billygoat. More: death of Renatto Casorotto In either case, those are pretty interesting diagrams given how hard of a level Casorotto was soloing in the Dolomites. Fantasic that you shared them here, thanks from all of us! It looks like he used a single jumar for aiding and dual prussics for freeing if I'm reading that correctly. Thats ballzy. 2nd question to Joseph, I know you solo quite a bit using a modified Grigri. Do you have any concerns about crossloading biners and not using backup knots for your gri-gri set up? Regards: Bill
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Did you spit on him before or after? ________________________________________________________ Johnny: Wake up my friend, clif bars are $1.35 at REI and $1.00 at Trader Joes. REI, great place to return Alines. Except you get store credit only, no cash. Which might not be bad if you need overpriced clif bars! Seriously, REI had an overwhelming number of members try to fight store expansion back when they had 1 store in Seattle. (I was a member back then). That fight got lost as evidenced by the REI retail locations everywhere. I've known a lot of people who have worked there, and except for 1 person they were not appreciative of the way they were treated by management. Nice to have plenty of choices. I tried to buy my new skii boots there this year but wound up buying them form Mt Shop, I really enjoyed the owners attitude (Wayne something). It didn't hurt that when I started to fire him up for chasing Bergreunde ski swwap out, he corrected me and described why they left (too much work on 1 person in the bergfrende organzation, and mentioned that Grant HS had approched him this year and he was happy to support them. Pretty much sealed it for me. Now Climbaxe is right next door too. I don't have anything bad to say about US Outdoor, bough my boy a board there this year.
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Nice summation ScottP. I've wondered about something similar. My house is amost 100 years old. I do not own Earthquake insurance which is almost $2000 a year. You probably know the story of earthquakes in the NW. Basically, geologic evidence suggests that we are due for a major massive earthquake which will make the SF 1906 quake seem like a small childs rattle toy moving in the next room. If it comes, and it MIGHT..........well, some of us are hanging it wayyyyyy out there.
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Winter: that's abnormally distrubing. Good luck next year Seattle dudes, you'll be back in the bowl.
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Nothing like a Guiness and some pushups, it's turning into a worldwide phenononom. See what you started? Here's something to shoot for: 114 fingertip pushups in 60 seconds, the record was just set and I was thinking of you all. Indian style I wonder if he used his knees for all of them? Ahhhhh Guiness.....
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Loud Obnoxious F*uking Lolligagers!
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Whooosh.... wow, that helped, thanks Wayne! (John, check PM)
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Mel Brooks-Ann Bancroft, Tom Cruise-Nicole Kidman and Paul-Joanne Woodward are not celebritites? wuz dat? OMG Tom and Nicole broke up! GET OUT!
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I was perusing this thread about a month ago and picked up 2 great books recommended on this site. I read botha dn want to thank those who recommended them. Robert Hughes "The Fatal Shore", and "The Prize" by Danial Yergin. I found "The Prize" especially powerful and interesting. Soo. Heres a few more I found which you might check out: "Enders Game and Enders Shadow" by Olsen Scott Card, both top notch Science Fiction. "Titan" by Ron Chernov, perhaps the best biography I've every read (subject is John D Rockerfeller Sr.) Anybody else have any topnotch books to share?
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Yeah, what he said. BTW don't stand in front of any tanks. That was tv. In real life you're a skinny round eye and no match for a tank. Trying to help.