billcoe

Did anybody go anyway? How was it?

Nice call Mark, me too - and real nice pic BTW. Some of that isn't short, I've never climbed that with a crash pad, I think I have to upgrade my friends to a better class, one with pads for instance. It's currently raining outside my office window (Beaverton) the ground is solid wet...... looks like tonight is canceled unless some of you drytoolers suit up and hit it. Dan - you bastard, what did you do with Fueonos? seriously, look forward to your humor and solid belays.

Nice abstrat John: I wouldn't have said anything but Sunday I was out and one of the young guys who had been dropped by his girlfriend in the gym not that long ago, breaking both ankles. Least thats the story I heard. It's more unforgiving out there than a gym, and my ankles are signifiganly more aged and brittle than a 20 year olds. I think he thought she had it dialed based his teaching. Good luck with the arm Ivan, hope it doesn't impeed the baby carring features you need right now.

Well, you posted both of Trasks good posts. End of story?

Hi all: Sunshine, finally. Looking forward to this. Short technical note: I figure that posting my rant thing here for everybody, just once, might be better than PMing everyone. As it’s a new year, with new folks, I want to restate my terms and conditions. Sorry if you heard this before. I don’t know the skill levels of people tomorrow so I’ll repeat. I only have 1 major issue. Safety. As such, I give and expect 100 percent perfect belays. 100 percent perfect means: good communication, ground checks for every climber/belayer, and brake hand on the rope ground to ground round trip for any climber off the deck who thinks they are on, or should be on, belay. If you've ever seen a person dropped by their belayer, you witnessed a less than perfect belay. Might have been a 99 percenter, hard to say, but it was less than 100 percent. 1 really don't give a rats ass if you can outclimb me, welcome to a huge club if like most people you can. I don't care. I don't want to hear anyone say it's just top roping either. I choose to be safe and as part of that refuse to climb with anyone who expects to do less. If you don’t like what I’m saying here, don’t show up. Last year the rescue crews were called out for 10 cliff incidents, most in the area we will be in. Every Fucking one of which was avoidable, except that somebody chose to not be safe. Don’t think this can’t or won’t happen to you. I once carried out one of the most experienced Oregon climbers who had just finished the easy White Rabbit 5.3 down climb and while turning on relatively flat ground, banana-peeled on the wet mud and seriously pitched. The hospital stay was like a month or so with the broken ribs, punctured lungs, surgery to remove the spleen and permanent pins added to the wrist a week into the stay with more surgery. No one is immune and it’s a choice we can make. I free solo out here sometimes and it always shocks and surprised that rare person who sees me toping out - I’m fine with you doing so too, best not this time of year with this group please, let’s let it dry out and clean off some. I don’t want to teach belays either. If you don’t have your Sh*T together, don’t come out expecting that somebody will help you to get it together. Make arrangements with somebody else some other time, I’d rather solo. I like to get set up efficiently and rapidly to get maximum time to get pumped. That might mean running up 3 laps in a row without untying and/or down climbing. Given the time constraints, it’s not a good time to be dogging a route unless you have a belayer who’s toasted out and done in, and nobody is standing at the base: rock shoes on foot tapping hoping for another shot before dark. You want to smoke a bowl or drink some beers, pretty common and fine by me, stay in control and don’t get sparks on my rope or (more) glass on the ground is all I've ever asked. If you haven’t choked and blown spit on your screen due to my arrogance thus far, I’m driving from Beaverton and should be there @6 pm. Directions to Silver Bullet are thus: as John said: After 3 speed bumps the road bends slightly right and passes a big tan dome building. Park past the big tan dome building, @ 100 years before the hard right turn, and cross the road to the north into the woods and walk c. 100’ east paralleling the road. You should immediately pass a tunnel on your right that goes underneath the road, @ 20 steps further there is a trail that branches left, head left out to the cliff edge (another 25 feet or so) and you should be able to gaze down to some anchors below. (Going straight is a very safe and gentle walk to the bottom. You could curve around and meet up with folks below if you don't want to jump on the fixed line). Communication from the top to the bottom is very difficult. There is some white water rapids or something further below, and the continued roaring sound never abates and is very difficult to overcome. The hand signal for advising a belayer that you are over the edge, tied in safe and can be taken off belay is a wave of the hand for instance. Planning the hand signals in advance is a good idea. If my finger points down and makes a circular motion after I've topped out, that means please lower me. A fist means stop. Might want to clean some crap off so your trip up is cleaner, or perhaps reclimb a section that felt particularly great or difficult. As there is plenty of slippery wet mud, leaves and winter moss buildup, I suggest we tie off a fir and rap to the ledge below, set up the climbs and then rap the same line the rest of the way down. I rarely do this at this location, but this would be the time to rap IMO. It might be dry, but probably not. I have beater rope and don’t mind getting sap on it. You show up and see a light blue Maxim tied to a fir, feel free to rap on it, don’t ask permission. Side note: out here it's common to see a single party have 2, 3 or 4 climbs set up, tradition is that you can climb on their ropes. Nice to ask first. If you feel insecure on a single line rap and want a fireman’s belay, glad to do it, flip the rope around till some enquiring person at the base walks over below you and looks up, point or shout and we’ll pull on it to slow you down if you have a crappy rap device and/or hate single rope raps. Tossing an identical sized 2nd carabiner in most atc devices helps slow you down too. As this had been a active rock quarry, many of the anchors are into large blocks. We had a winter with some freezing; I always, but especially now, like to back up all the anchors with a backup rope tied solid to a fir or a rock further back. I have plenty of sections of retired ropes to do this. Bring your climbing ropes and personal gear, some lockers and such if you have it. Should be plenty of gear and ropes if you don’t own that stuff, so no worries. If you want to warm up bouldering, you might drive to the top and jump on some of the short man-made stuff up there. It's pretty good. Have fun, be safe, and see you tomorrow. PS, 2-4 is a great number of folks, I usually bag off if I see lots of cars and it's a big group, please don't be offended if that occurs. It's me, not you. Any of you last years or before dudes gonna show? Ivan, Paul, B-rock, Ron, Dan, Pete, Roberto, Kirby, T?

BTW: I haven't heard Jack, I've been sleeping in the back corner and for all I know, them birds might have relocated to Florida for the sunny weather:.........Joseph knows everything, lets ask him: Joseph?

Better move back or get in line for the SE Corner now: Stampede about to occur!!!

And yet, that doesn't seem to lessen it's chances of getting buttfucked. OMG, did you really just say that? Thats damn funny!

Not from me as I'm sure that will be covered by everyone else. Like to hear their story though.

1 thing I did yesterday to my 7 year old 3rd rope I'd not recommend on the way to the laundramat. Trundled a 200 lb rock 70 feet. It hit a small sapling and altered course right onto the rope. The impact shook the wall. The rope doesn't look as bad as I though as it was on soft dirt and sank down on impact. I tied a knot in the spot and kept using it so I could get down, however: I'll cut it off at that spot, wash it with Woolite and put it on e-bay as a "slightly used" rope. Anyone need to buy a great rope, 100 percent kernmantel! ? _________________________________________________________ PS, kidding about the ebay part. I'm just saying that for Joseph since he bought a used rope off ebay for his lead line. Regards: Bill

No.

Sorry dude, people forgot their responsibilities and the Martlet wandered off. I saw one in the zoo once, I think, but never in the wild.

Looks like Wednesday may be the best day weather-wise for rock climbing. Good for you? Silver Bullet? Rock shoes-no tools for me: You?

Thats some hilarious stuff!

I guess I could slightly understand the Enumclaw thing, and generally think that as long as people are consenting adults it's all good: but this story has made me change my mind about being open minded: Soon to be released on Fox - true story movie of the week "Three Men Charged in 'Dungeon' Castration Apr 01 3:53 PM US/Eastern Email this story CHARLOTTE, N.C. Three men have been arrested on charges of performing castrations on apparently willing participants in a sadomasochistic "dungeon" in a rural house, authorities said Friday. "It's extremely bizarre," District Attorney Michael Bonfoey said in a telephone interview. "It's incredible the amount of ways that people can find to run afoul of the law." Sheriff's investigators said Richard Sciara, 61, Danny Reeves, 49, and Michael Mendez, 60, admitted performing at least eight surgeries, including castrations and testicle replacements, on six consenting clients over the past year. None of the three is licensed to practice medicine, officials said. The suspects, all residents of the house in Haywood County, in western North Carolina, where the surgeries were allegedly performed, were arrested Thursday. They were being held on $150,000 bond each and could make their first court appearances Monday, Bonfoey said. The sheriff's office had investigated reports of sadomasochistic acts at the house in 2004, but concluded there was nothing illegal going on because the participants appeared to be willing adults. Renewed scrutiny, prompted by a citizen who made "strange statements" to Bonfoey, revealed that illegal surgeries were taking place, the prosecutor said. Detectives who searched the home Wednesday found medical supplies that included scalpels, sutures, bandages, anesthetic and artificial replacement testicles, sheriff's officials said. Also seized were videotaping equipment, and video recordings of the surgeries, sheriff's officials said. Photos and videos made at the "dungeon" were apparently featured on a locally produced sadomasochistic Web site, officials said. "This right here beats anything I have ever seen," Sheriff Tom Alexander told the Asheville Citizen-Times, which reported that victims may have come from as far away as South America. Each man faces 10 felony counts _ five each of castration without malice and conspiracy to commit castration without malice _ as well as eight misdemeanor counts of performing medical acts without a license. Each felony carries a maximum three years and three months in prison, Bonfoey said. "Assuming that the victims consented to this _ and we don't know that for sure yet _ that doesn't make it a defense," Bonfoey said. "We can't have people who are not medical doctors lopping off limbs and other body parts."

Must have been a mudfest:-) Well, my social secretary has advised me that spring forward/fall back will hit Sunday, giving us another hour of light. I got out a little today and as kevin or Larry can explain: discovered that I'm old and out of shape. Can't do anything about being old. But, since my foot isn't too excruciating, I can still get a few laps in. I suppose the out of shape thing is to be expected since its winter and all, and I've stay a bit off my foot. Point is: we should start up regular again getting in shape after work once it dries off some out at the Butte. Seemed like I was out a lot with only John last year, as good of a partner as you can find, but I'm sure that some of you other folks might enjoy yourselves too. We kept inviting last year, and something we'd get some people show up. Come on out! I give great belay. What say for Tue or Wed if it's not raining? John: you in town?

Maybe Mark. Lets put this out there. (I've only seen this crag, not climbed there, it could be splitter-choss) If anyone wishes to share a specific location of your favorite secret crag via a PM, I'll keep it secret if it happens to be this one. Otherwise, I'll try to get up to this place, bolt the crap out of them where needed, and share beta voraciously on this site thereby outing someones crag. I highly suspect - given it's proximity - that folks have climbed there already.

How this for a name for a new area? SPLITTERVILLE . New area. No one has climbed there until I convince someone to head there with me. (that I know of) No, this is not the "secret" area you told me of. I have not nor will I ever divulge those. BTW, that place(s) got named already, I'm not discoursing on changing a name here. I've told no one for 2 years BTW. New area, never climbed by anyone who's ever sprayed or told me, that's what we are discussing. How's Splitterville? I like it and I get 2 votes. I suppose somebodies already climbed there, it's too close to PDX not to be.

Pleeeasaassssseeeeeeeeee: Crackers: your parents didn't name you Graham? Thanks for sharing Blake!

I must have come pre-loaded with fish? That would be odd.

We might have to discuss how much beer and gear you have with you dude! Sounds like at least a case and are they bottles or cans? Seriously, thats a lot of weight. You've probably looked at your gear before, but I'd start by checking the tent. If you have a sweet 4 person mountain dome that might easily be 6 lbs + you could cut right there with a lighter, smaller (and strong) 2 or 2-3 person. Next might be the rope you have. I've carried a rock rope in the mountains out of necessity, but if it's a 10.5 or 60 meter 11 mil that weight adds up as well. Cut the length and the diameter. Lastly, if you like to sleep warm (1 do too) maybe you need a lighter bag? The range of weight from a heavy 4 season polarfill vs like a high loft Western Mountainering or Feathered Friends down fill will add up as well, sleeping in your clothes isn't a bad thing either to add warmth should you go with a lighter bag. Wow, 70 lbs. Staggering. You might look in that pack and double check to see if your partner is stuffing a TV, porn collection and a vinyl blow up doll in there when you aren't looking or sumptin like that. Good luck, man- you must be strong as an ox.

I think I'm voting that writing some of the best stuff this year. Deep.............yet humorous. thanks for sharing!

Noticed you didnt' have any pics though......hmmmmmm, bet you think the US landed on the moon too?

Crap: now I'm glued here waiting for the answer. Somebodies gonna start talking dirty soon.

Don't hate the Playa.