billcoe

Does that mean you want to come get rained on while watching for Peregrines? It's pretty peaceful actually.

Office pool right now: how many pages will this go? especially if G-spotter gets in on it. I guess 23 (pages)

No kidding? If I get suckered into this, I don't think I could take the laughter later: hahahahahahahahahaahahahahahahahhhahahahahahaha. My foot hurts I'll try anything. Josephs looking for a good hand specialist: did that every get resolved up above on this thread?

Great news on the fee. Ivan is up for Peregrine locating. Anyone else? We're coming up on the time of the troika of fantastica for climber/skier folks in SW Washington/NW Oregon. 1st) Rip some Fresh ones via borad(s) in the am till the sun hits and you are whimpering from the pain in your quads. 2nd) Climb some of the best moderate cracks in the world in the afternoon till you start whimpering from exaustion. 3rd) Head to Beacon and watch for Falcons but see the Eagles swooping, or do what I do and fall fast asleep in the car to finish the daylight till your wife calls via cell yelling where the hell are you? Volenteers?

And I'm sure all PDX climbers are waiting breathlessly for you to do this for them. How have they survived without your organization!?!?! Be nice, John is great guy to hang with and everybody down here likes him. Unlike a lot of folks around here, dude really gets out and climbs! CBS, nobody leaves the webbing, Johns would use it to wipe the dripping slimy spoage off after they finish up. Edited to add: Nice job getting out and getting some Knottygirl.

What he said: Old news. Blueberry in particular has a nice tree and 5 other independant placements should you want that many. Fuenos was making fun of me once cause I used most of them! Olah Ireneo! Furthermore, it was boltless for the first 25 years I climbed out there, and those anchors you see got put in and taken out last year sometime, unless they got put in and taken out for the first time this year. (somebody do a search on this site if you want to revist last years thread on it). I'm currently slacking on cleaning off that buttress (Jim calls it "Bill's Buttress") just West of Video, I have started to shovel and trundle but got sidetracked by the beautiful snow this year: however, brace yourself for the anchor/bolt question cause it would be nice to have them there at that location, and since I'm doing the work I get to chose and I'm leaning towards bolts. With some sweet beautiful chains. I'll confer with everybody a long time b4 so no need to start arguing and screaming about nothing just yet. Plenty of time later. Place will probably be drytooled 20-30 times before we get to that point. That's another discussion too.

That's very sweet young man, but doesn't answer the question of which pack to take when we all finally do shut up and climb, or where should we be carrying all those sour red grapes. . I'm a gear whore, and an elder one now as well, half the fun is talkin about it.

Thin cracks. Love em.

Welcome to old age wet spotter.

Works for me as long as it's dry and I can see You must have ended the day worked, bet you're cranking hard to start the year....not that the year ever ended for ya! Maybe you can ropegun some routes for me?

I need to get online more. Sorry I missed your post John, until some of this heavy snow melts I find it difficut to get weekend time. I have a 15 year old son with a new Board and we both have Meadows season passes! I like to think that taking a few days off here or there will help my foot heal though. Hey, way to lay the humor down on g-spotter though. That's some funny stuff. Tuesday? You in PHX?

Interesting quote on that site describing the small lil Ozone pack: "The Ozone is a super-durable daypack perfect for the dedicated rockclimber or hiker. The clean lines uncluttered by ice axe straps or other paraphenalia ensures that you won't be mistaken for an ice-climber, mountaineer or other such deviant. "....... ______________________________________________________ packs

spiderman isn't a wall climber?

Sweet: glad your son is healthy Ivan. Gandolf must have been taken already for a name. Probably like Prince's old name (formerly Glyph boy the singer), unpronounceable...........

Or paid by them.

Sounds like you have it pretty much together. If it was me, I'd avoid NE Buttress, Braile Book, Half dome, Central Pillar of Frenzy, East Buttress of Middle, Higher Spire, Arrowhead arete and Glacier Point. East Buttress of El Cap will most likely be cold-assed sopping wet and totally unclimbable too. Moby, Ahab, Pine Line and Sacherer would be good if there is no snow on the Captain up high on top - pay attention to that- assuming you are up for some of those grades, same with Serenity, Sons. If there is any snow on top, stay far away, a big chuck of ice which has fallen 3000 feet isn't something one wants to encounter normally. Safest and warmest: Assuming good weather I'd do: Day 1 - knob hill area, pizza. Day 2 - Sunnyside Bench Jamcrack and toprope Lazy Bum and Bummer which are right there or if the kids are feeling spry lead them: then Bishops Terrace and some bouldering right in that area, pizza: OR- All day at Schultzes ridge if the Captain has no snow peeling off from up high, pizza. Day 3 -Either Manure Pile (1st choice) or Royal Arches for a final days route would cap an awesome trip, pizza. I would expect Arches to be unclimbable with water running right down it, but you never know. Otherwise, it might be the 1st choice. Get on Arches early and suffer the cold which should end soon with the am sun. Expect the last pitch to be unclimbable at easy class 5 friction, dead serious, pass on it unless it's dry. Rap the route. I'd make sure anybody's who's been on that route went first with a topo, otherwise it would be the person with the best routefinding experience and 2 others. A party of 3 would have 2 ropes, more gear (doubled wired nuts and some full length 1" tied tubular runners should do it) than needed, and the ability to bail quickly with long raps on the 2 ropes. The final party would be the fastest and strongest and if needed a party of 3 as well. Should the worst occur mid route, the top party can bail, leaving some wireds as rap anchors along with tied off trees and bushes and pick up the kids below as they bail. I wouldn't treat it as a normal 5.6 for an outing like this, be prepared and pay attention. As a backup bad weather plan, I'd figure out some nice hikes (Mirror Lake yes, Captain/rim no) and also the best places to boulder, and we'd boulder during any sun breaks in between hanging out at Degnans and hiking. You sound like you are heading for a great trip, I envy you. Have fun

May I suggest you re-apprise your request? I guided for many years, given what you are saying about the skill levels, you do not want a group like you are describing (ie "a group of enthusiastic teenagers with limited climbing experience") on a yos multi-pitch. Do NOT. Many of them will have anchors you have put in and small or non-existant ledges. Cluster*F is a word which might start to describe it. (Now to me, whan I hear the word group, I'm thinking more than 3 and up to 20, so even if you split the party s to 3 max, I suspect that the experiance level starts to get real thin for some of the groups, no?) Anyway, lots of reasons to shift your focus. Loss of control and increased chance of a fatality is only one of them. May I suggest you check out single pitch or short climbs lower to the ground on the northern walls (like maybe the longest would be Sunnyside Bench Jamcrack, a 2 pitch climb that has a bolted anchor at the ledge between pitches, or Bishops Terrace.) After you've been there a day or 2 and folks have sorted out what their skills and attitudes are, then maybe spin off a party or 2 and head for some of the routes mentioned previously. Nutcracker would be great, perhaps Snake Dike or Royal Arches too for instance. Snake Dike in particular (North dome too) check the weather and conditions before you head out, as high as they are they're most likely out of the question, there might be huge snow at the base, probably on route too: some folks might just want to hike up to the start of Snake Dike with the group and then around and up the top to meet the climbers, which would be great, but check that the 1/2 dome cables are up and there is no snow. I've come down with the cables down, and can't imagine doing it with any snow on the thing: ANY. Nobody climbs at Schultz Ridge, it's generally short bolted routes with lots of 1 pitch climbs. North side of the valley so it's sunny. If theres snow on the Captain avoid it cause if it starts to warm up mid day- you might get some ice chunks your way. think about it, look at Josephs pics too, .....if you are on or near the ground, some of the weaker/tireder kids can just wander over the "mall" and hang out. If it starts to snow mid day, you can just wander over and have pizza..... Most important thing is saftey, fun will follow if you are safe. Sounds like a great time!

Hmmmm, you aren't a female Llama by any chance ?

I've never gotten up 5.13 no hangs or falls, let alone 5.14, where the holds are almost invisible. The strength to weight ratio on these folks like Caldwell, Sharma, Rodden, Keih...must be incredible. Pretty impressive to me, but you're still OK ..........for a Llama.

"Somebody to love".

I thought ALLCAPS might chip in here.

I'd like to have been a fly on that wall Ivan! ________________________________________________ Was Bush taken out and stoned in accordance with old testament principles after the lil guys properly convicted him? _________________________________________________ Distel, I gotta ask about Tibet at some point, I'm heading your way in Sept. to Everest North face Basecamp via Laasa. What to bring (pencils good gifts for lil kids?) , wear, see etc etc.

Wow, I gotta retire my blue 5.10 Kaukulators which have to be 2 sizes oversized. So you are saying I can jump my runnout offwidth ratings up 3 to 5.8 from 5.4? Schweet. I'm jumping on that. Opps, nevermind, I see you're discussing nubbins. These floppy Kaukulators kick ass on nubbins.

What does cap the quote mean anyway? Robbie Williams?