billcoe

Make offer? I'll take them. Full price OK and you include shipping to me? I'll PM.

I'll take the # 2 and #3 - Never Used Camalots for $22 ea and the Ushba ti pully for $15 PM sent

Wednesday March 7 2012 at the Mazamas (527 Southeast 43rd Avenue, Portland, OR 97215). FREE! John Frieh will be narrating the climb that he, Zac West and Dave Burdick did of the first ascent of the Burkett Needle's east arete. Maybe John can show up with some pictures here later at some point to amp the pre-show stokage...... http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web11f/newswire-needle-in-a-storm BTW, I wandered into that Mazamas auditorium and they have a small but kick assed climbing wall with cracks and everything.

I can't say about stats or records Blake. It's more like the conventional wisdom. I might have only heard of one personal experience of a failure, and that's been so many years (maybe over 20) I'd want to ask the guy to confirm it: old Oregon climber named Steve Strauch I think told me he cut through the webbing with the rap rope and got lucky. Conventional wisdom like not using a Bowline to tie in with. Maybe the reasons just gets lost. Tieing in with a bowline use to be much more common than using a using a figure 8 to tie in. I can't point you to stats or records of deaths, but I know that has happened for both bowline tie ins and rapping off webbing. That's why those few who do still tie in with a bowline these days use the Yosemite finish or a double bowline that's usually well dressed and invariably seems to have a backup stopper type of knot. Deaths from either of these occurrences seem to be close to non-existent these days as both bowlines and rapping directly off of a single webbing strand are not common. But both are still serious juju. Vid below not totally representative, but back in the day people set this up simulated rapping and the pressure (weight) is much more, so requires less strokes to break the webbing. Naturally, overhangs are worse than lower angle raps, the more weight you put on a rope, the easier it is to melt the webbing. The webbing melts it doesn't cut. I've never heard if doing it in the cold reduces the effect but I imagine it would make a difference. Leaving all that tat and just adding your new piece isn't often a bad idea to increase your safety margin if you don't want to leave a biner. [video:youtube] regards

Good stuff. I think that the major issue I'd have is what Gene brings up. You are potentially looking at being a stupid statistic if you cut away all the old webbing, leave your new one and do a double rope rap right on webbing with differing stretch characteristics in your ropes. People have died doing that before, and undoubtedly will again. Not just a 10mm and a 6mm tied together, but potentially 2 same sized ropes of differing brands. Very very Bad Bad idea. Burn a biner.

Gene gives great advice. Add Fish Products to the list as well, but don't be in a hurry. If it's a Metolius cam Pat, go to Metolius, they will fix that (those?) thing(?) up so it looks new. Great work, dirt cheap. http://www.fishproducts.com/catalog/productlinefs.html Repairs & so forth section...

and thanks for posting pics of your son grandson too Dave. Sounds like a great backpacking adventure about to happen! Have fun.

You will have a choice between a tax and spend democrat or a borrow and spend republican. Paul won't be in it. Let's hope for vote and change as the way things are heading, the next election will be Pee Wee Herman vs Madonna.

Holy smokes Bearbreeder...who makes that and whats it stuffed with? I always leave my expensive jackets at home rather than take them along and go screw them up by using them. It's just a matter of time till that strategy bites me in the ass......

Wanna see a pic of some corn?

Had Chicken for dinner. Sorry Rooster. Wish it was sunny and warm out again.

OK, but you first....

No need to go any further than Crillz post. I 100% agree. This stuff below (except for the kids play area) is all bullshit and unneeded. * A kids' play area (not a bad idea actually) A juice bar Beer A sauna Indoor deep water soloing I can get beer at home, DWS is overrated and all those people lining up for those routes will be getting the rocks super wet. All that is needed is cracks, real ones, varied and long....not the kind Dave alludes too:-) LONG!!!!! So you can get some cardio going. This area is supersaturated with gyms, and all of them are damned good. PRG, Stoneworks and Circuit all great. BUT, none have the crack thing going on. Club Sport has 3 cracks but they are strange and few people seem to get on them. I think PRG might have put some in I haven't been there for a long time. Make the F**King things adjustable in steepness so that when some 10 year old pup who's climbing 5.13 gets on it he can adjust it real steep and overhanging but then an old weak pussy like myself gets on it I can ratchet it back to something that resembles Glacier Point Apron. You know what I mean. And different sizes too, with constrictions that mimic real rock. The Mazamas clubhouse in PDX has that almost going on on their wall.

HEY NOW

piss off wanker

Opps. Caught with an innovative friends and family plan similar to what you outlined above. Can we still blame Bush? Titled "U.S. drones targeting rescuers and mourners" http://www.salon.com/2012/02/05/u_s_drones_targeting_rescuers_and_mourners/singleton/ The last line. Romney, same same with no Nobel prize is all, don't hold yer breath for hope or change after the next election bros, we got us a system going on here. A system. Paul is the only candidate suggesting we are way out of line here. What a nutjob. Clearly no one else (except Jayb it seems) gives a shit.

In a sea of amazing lil up and coming Sharma like kids - your's is up near the top of the list someplace. Congrats for you both. Few things are as fun as climbing with your kid. I love the positive energy and fun loving psyched up spirit all these kids bring.

I'm sure. That probably applies to Rob and some of the other bros here too I'd bet. Playing a douchbag online is all too easy...sadly. Sometimes people just get all stoked and it gets misinterpreted by us old fucks. Later geriatrics!

Although I almost agree with that I'd have to call bullshit on that statement Pat. You'd be horrified. Hell, I'd be horrified and me being much closer to being a nutjob: as you know, I espouse a lot of what he says. I know that we both like to see some of those major issues he'd bring to the table be in the debate though. It looks like it won't happen. Anyway, he doesn't have a chance for the nomination, and he's older than Reagan was before Reagan got alzheimers....there is that....and the button. Hope I got them commas right for Miss panitesinabunchpunctuation up there. Regards to all.

I care, in fact I care A LOT: but "none of the above" is leading my choices right now. It looks like I will be writing that in.

Woot! Thanks Kev. If you get a chance to see Kyles hooks that Brad Jarrett ground for him, check them out. Fondling Kyles....uhhh...hooks.

I don't recall meeting the dude, he has a paine'd expression on his face - did he put up any good routes?

Based on Danes Review, I bought 2 XV's for gifts 2 Christmas's ago. One gets worn daily all winter by my non-climbing brother around town. He'll show up in 45 degree rain after riding mass transit wearing the thing. He takes it everywhere and I rarely see him without it when it's under 40 degrees. Coldest place it's been may have been Antarctica as he ran a Marathon down there. He LOVES this jacket. My son, a climber, showed up this Christmas after driving back from college with his buddies in his flip flops and shorts. I flick him some crap about this state of undress (I pitched the classic: "What happens if you have car trouble?") and he says "Oh no big deal, we came across the blue mountains and had to chain up. The other guys really didn't know how to put chains on so I did it. Then as we were just finishing up some woman pulled up and asked if we'd put chains on her car so I did that one, and as I was finishing that, a real old woman pulled up and was almost pleading for me to do her car....I would have said no but she needed the help, so I did." He lights up. "She gave me $40 bucks too!.... I told her no way I was taking money to help her like 3 times and she kept insisting and you know I needed it so I happily gave in and took it." Last I heard, he loves his XV too, but I'll admit that unlike here, he lives where it's real cold, and I think he only wears it when he's in the Mtns and it butt-assed cold. I've never seen him wear it. I suspect he values it too much to wear it casually, and he likes to dress minimally to condition his body for the cold.

Pfft, Sobo already said he has that effect on women

HA HA Doug, men ARE pigs:-) interesting, not best ever. Sex is always good, and even as a lil kid I appreciated this Herb Albert cover: Love the dog, something uplifting. Spinal Tap cover coming up next page is my guess:-)