billcoe

Can't add much to that! ...maybe...?

The Dmm Bugette weighs about what a piece of light tinfoil does and works that size. (7.5mm min) http://www.amazon.com/DMM-Bugette-by/dp/B000T034ZE When I bought my 9.1 I bought 2 and clipped them to the rope bag. Since then, other devices are able to handle that sized rope better. The newer BD ATC guide has the autolocking thing, for instance, and is an excellent device which goes down to 7.7mm http://www.amazon.com/Black-Diamond-ATC-Device-Assorted/dp/B000T9FBEM/ref=sr_1_sc_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1337606506&sr=1-2-spell

Regardless of the issues, I'd like to see the schools continue and expand. It's cheap, effective and powerful juju. As far as this: Krakauers earlier attacks and lies against Anatoli Boukreev, no matter if written in ignorance or ineptitude, were enough for me to never be too concerned with believing his integrity and truthfulness of his later stories. I think you can still read and enjoy them, but as far as them being truthful...uhhh. No. regards to all:

Closest to PDX with bolt clipping even in marginal weather is probably Broughtons Bluff or Ozone. Both have some descent gear routes too and are real close since you only have 1 day.

That put a smile on my face. Thanks for sharing it Rudy! It was enjoyed:-)

meh, they lost me at

Awesome is utilized too much these days, but that's awesome! Thanks for sharing it with us. Wow!

Meh, it least it appears he can afford a nice shop vac.....sayin' that "manually" is in his rear view mirror now and he's entered the modern age.... take care all....

It's like this classic song Bryan. Older than dirt perhaps, still germane. Hope the info was useful. [video:youtube] More: Oly sent this in the 60's TILT!!!! Tilting the camera to make it look hard has been happening for years. Hey Lucky G -sorry dude, it's just a big MFing ground squirrel that wants to be a gopher when it grows up and it's sayin', "I sent that RIGHT after I built it beotches!" Shhhh, secret Oregon project, still virgin:-)

Oh, one more thing you should know. REI has 20% off coupons. So $95 is actually high $70 something. LOL, not doing the math and don't remember.

Hey Wastrel, I'm not fully sure what you are saying about going to Napa. Do they have some kind of ulta-light bearings with the concave we all like so that the rope tracks in it? And we should go get that? It weighs less than 2oz? Can you post a link and a picture of this so the rest of us can get up to speed. As far as your statement that you can't be backing off one of these in a Z-pulley situation, why couldn't you just pull the rope a fraction of an inch up and easily just release the cam to lower so that your buddy doesn't get his head whacked on the lip of the crevasse, as you say? I will admit I just got mine and have only used it 2 times, neither to pull a dude out of a crevasse:-)...hopefully never have too...but I didn't even try to set it up for that either. Why can't you release just the cam? I'm not clear on that either. Have you actually used this? Seem to me that the friction you'd get would be crazy high. To the point where you'd just unrope and leave yer buddy stuck upside down in the crevasse. If that's the case, it might be better to map out a route that doesn't involve any big crevasses and leave all this junk at home? Or be like John Frieh and go so fast (and light) over them that the crevasses don't feel yer weight:-)

LOL, like Frank Sacherer in aggro mode. The story goes: "On one occasion he was way above Beck's belay stance without a single intermediate piton. Beck anxiously called up to him to put in a piton. Sacherer spat back, 'Shut up, you chicken sh#t.'" Or on yelling at Tom Gerughty who had been climbing for about a month and was trying to follow him up "Crack of Despair" in Yosemite: "GERUGHTY, IF YOU STEP ON THAT BOLT I'M GONNA PULL YOU OFF GODDMANIT". BTW, you handled that great. I use to love to fight. But as you age, you learn it gets much more serious than on the schoolyard, and you are but inches or moments away from serving a life sentence in the penitentiary. It makes you tend to reevaluate. And it gets there quickly. It is (hopefully) likely that this guy will hear about his horrible behavior from his buddies, and the next time he sees you he will feel both grateful and happy that you acted as you did in not kicking his ass.

We are all picking option C Rob: you have the reading skillz of a 3 year old.

If anyone hasn't seen it yet, check out the Micro (not Mini) Traxion for this job. It's the total shizz!

IMO Black Diamond Camalots are better cams. Not just better for the price as they are cheaper: better. As far as the "deformation" thing noted above goes, outside of seeing one or 2 pictures of the smallest Metolius cams (the aid climbing pieces) being broken when someone took a free climbing whipper on one, I've never seen one of those deform either. Cheaper. Lighter. Better than Dragons.

I can understand why you won't be able to buy it now. It's gone up to $138,322 since I posted that earlier today. Maybe this clock is broken? http://www.usdebtclock.org/

You mad about this at all? http://www.usdebtclock.org/ It's the US debt clock. Clinton had that under control. Bush went crazy and fired it up, then Obama as done everything in his power to make it spin faster. The wrong way. Each and every US taxpayer now owes $138,311. EACH. We seem unable to even slow it down by spending less or taxing more. So we keep borrowing and borrowing even knowing that most of the $ we are borrowing is just going down the toilet via worthless and wasteful Big Government projects. ...what was the question again? Oh, right. no.

From the wayback machine, (I don't remember any of this). European dude. Eurospiders. Eurotrash. Not Asian, although they may be heading that way next. You got the rest of it right but forgot that there are also 2 kinds of aliens inhabiting the earth right now. The big ones and the Greys. Greys are the little ones, which the big ones eat, and they eat an occasional human as well. And you call yourself a teacher..... ______________________________________________________________ Jim also has Stewart's stuff - young Chris pulled it off and gave to Jim. Evidently a #7 stopper held the fall and is now fixed as a testament to both the strength of stoppers, and as a way to commemorate Stewarts fall. Praise be it wasn't an Alien, or you'd have been lunch eh? Damn RIGHTEOUS CHRIS! http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/715302/Re_blownout#Post715302 Looks like the nut was left in at this point. 8/2007

Looks like a good job on the info presentations. Thanks for sharing it Paul. This looks interesting: As the 4th edition just came out, this has to be the companion version with all these rumored new climbing areas scattered all around in them. Looks like it's time as any day now given that it's April, it will be summer:-)

I understand. The Mayor, aka Woo Li master named this route below as well. This is Jeff Thomas's picture of my son fighting the blackberries (ALL of the greenery in this picture is blackberries) following the first ascent. Route name: Child Abuse . LOL, Jim cracks me up.

Apparently knot, but feel free to pitch some route names out there. The Mayor of Beacon came off of it, looked up and enthusiastically and loudly exclaimed: "SWEET FUCKER". Thus, named.

Don't need booze for that.

We've stolen a lot of foods and done OK, but the Vietnamese have stolen *cough** borrowed* some (French, Chinese are the 2) and absolutely mastered them. Wow!

You need to get out of the house more, the horn of Africa, despite otherwise being a shithole in many respects, has some amazing sauces on foods. Syria....sauces...uhhh..... good hashish that they get from Lebanon? (ie, blond Lebanese! Woot!) ..nevermind...LOL

2 questions, what kind of a deal, (ie, size, type etc etc) and what's your real name? (sorry, I don't like talking to pretend people). Mine is my avatar. Bill