billcoe

I guess when your buddy says "don't smoke that Piss" or "don't smoke that shit", folks need to be listening? Was that piss called "Old Yeller?"

LOL! You don't want to compare my grades to most little kids but especially your son unless you need some belly laughter LOL. Congrats to the boy on the 5.14! OK, I'll fess up. I climbed with my boy and his buddy over spring break week, it was awesome. The awesome part was how stoked they got. Hardest thing that wasn't a bolt clip up was Frogland in Red Rocks. Less than 3 hours on route which I consider good time for 3folks, 2 of whom are beginners. We had good changeovers. Stan Miller and Steve Lyford did that for the first time last year (onsight - W/no topo) from the base to the car in 1:40min at the end of a long day in BlackVelvet Canyon - timed. Here they are on their first gear leads ever.

About a month later, $138,155 is the number each of us taxpayers owes. This clock runs faster than Steve Prefontaine ever did.

Just re-read Dredereks advice below and relax. For myself, I think that there are several issues with what you say, not the least of which is the selfishness you show. Maybe you learned via osmosis, but the rest of us didn't. Having professionals teach beginners helps minimize the death and destruction noobs cause themselves without it. And the soft rubber on rock shoes will polish rock faster than street shoes. Then to complete your display of selfishness when you are not well received here after displaying such a display of selfish entitlement, you toss it off like it's everyone else that is wrong and you leave. A quick note here to you: it's you. It's not us. Not knowing you or the guides skill level, you could have wandered over and helped him with the hip belay and might have learned something new yourself, or help someone else to learn something new as well. Guides in Europe still toss on a standing shoulder belay for clients in the alps. (it makes me shiver just thinking of it)

Woof

LOL, I guess that's possible as it was damned windy that day and getting windier by the hour. By 3 PM we got tired of being beat up and we were stopping climbing and calling it a day after we rapped. Rapping off Elephant rock I encountered the worst knot in a rap line I've seen in my 38 years climbing. I had both of the ends tied to me, but made the mistake of kicking off the middle, which took off like a shot going sideways towards the first flake it saw...Rye Crisp? Wheat thin? Some damned flake. It pulled out OK but by the time I'd gotten down to it, the 2 ropes looked like they had been on fast in the washing machine and were a giant pretzel puzzle knot with the 2 ropes commingling. Took @20 min to untangle them hanging in space. Dudes above had coats but were cold waiting for me to stop f*ing off and get it done. After that we decided to head into the steakhouse to get some dinner and some peace from the wind. By the time we'd gotten back the winds had abated and the neighbors headed over to see where that tent was. I once chased a dome tent well over a mile that thought it was a balloon. (Illumination rock to significantly well below Timberline on the Reid Glacier.) I'd dropped my load and had gone back down to help up the last struggling climber in our group and was carrying his load for him. Feeling a tad weary and carrying his weight, my head wasn't held very high and we were still a ways down from the saddle: but I thought I glimpsed something...but no...it couldn't be. Get to the saddle and the story was that Bob Morris was telling this tale of a guy named George: who, once years back, had been setting up a dome tent when a puff of wind had taken it right off. POOF right as he gets to the end of the tale, the wind lifted the tent they were setting up like it was Dorothy and the Wizard, well over 50 vertical feet up and then it took off. That was the last they saw of it. Till I got up there to the saddle, saw that none of them had any interest in going all that way, asked them what they were going to do and they all say, leaf it be, the tent was gone for good, so I hiked down there, eventually found it, and drug it back up. Damned was I tired that day.

NICE!

Another nice TR! thanks dudes! Barbra Tuchman.

Heading to missile range of Iran...who will be angry as hornets once the Israelis attack this fall. I'd make sure you know where the best- aka nearest, bomb shelter is at all times. I'm serious. Looks like a great challenge for you Sobo, have fun, don't forget to write!

YES, IS THAT 2011 PERMIT STILL BE AVAILABLE FOR NEXT WEEKEND?

Stayed in COR site#...hmmmm, forget. Right by Elephant Rock. ps, didn't get their names...probably the only 2 climbers from Haley Idaho though.

Handren. The Supertopo is a good select book. Limited though. ST book in use about a week ago on a P2 or 3. I might have the ST book upsidedown but it's easy to read. I'm more likely to take the ST book out as it's light. The Handren book is awesome in all respects except in one:weight:-) If I walk a mile and a half to climb a 7/9 pitch route where I'm planning to carry our gear up and over, I'm more likely to leave the Handren book in the car, and if the route has a line:-( Hard to go do another route unless you are familiar....grrr.

Pretty sure that it's scheduled for this fall.

We're at City of Rocks, just got back to the campsite after climbing that day and then rustling up a dinner at the steakhouse in Alba. We're feeling pretty damned fine and satiated between the superb climbing, weather and companionship. 2 kids come wandering over to our site @6pm with strange looks on their faces......which elicits a "Dudes, we sent the checks in already" response from me as a joke. They sadly ask "Did you guys see anyone in our campsite today"? (we're 2 campsites away) "Uhh, No, we've been gone most of the day....why?" "We went out climbing today, and when we get back all of our stuff has been stolen." Someone had evidently driven up, tossed their tent and everything in it into a vehicle and booked. These kids looked to have expensive shit (my son had made note of their tent, maybe a Hildenberg), more expensive than I roll, and every damned piece was gone (except the Patagonia clothes on their backs and their gear). Tent, sleeping bags, cooking stuff. I don't know what all else. Everything that they didn't have with them on their person. I figure they'll need a place to stay which is going to be tough as we don't have extra, but I ask, where are you staying tonight, can we help? They said they were just going to drive home as they were from Haley, Id. After they left, turns out that my son and his buddy had left their keys and wallets in our tent all day. Something that didn't happen again. It snowed that next AM, so they didn't miss any climbing. Still, it might not be the rudest damned thing ever, but stealing some kids expensive stuff and ruining their climbing trip rates pretty high on the list.

Shapp! Hola MarkD!

Is it Headwall or Head Wall? Anyway, as an ongoing community service Sadie May and I headed out there, cleaned it and ran multiple laps on it today. God it feels so good to be pulling in the sun and feeling strong! The ledge right off the ground @10 feet up still has dirt on it if anyone is feeling energetic. It's good to go with one exception, and I had no clue so I wasn't prepared today, the film canister at the belay anchor is empty. So just a heads up if anyone feels like adding some good karma herb for yer bro's....:-)

LOL, looks "fahqing" awesome!

LOL!

I recall watching that and hoping that a fall would not test the only thing between you and the ground. But you were styling. Now there is 4 bolts in that section, and you are one of the reasons why:-) Pro inflation:-) It goes at @ 5.7-5.8 until the upper part which takes tiny cams that are good. I saw the next party to climb it after you just traverse right to the visible Headwall anchors 3/4 of the way up ....and thus avoid the 5.10 finish AND also get a TR on The headwall. Teh, it's got to be dry as a babys behind......after it's been changed and powdered of course.

Holy smokes! Must have been wearing her lucky socks that day....wow. I'd be interested in knowing what caused the fall once it gets figured out. Anyway, congrats on the amazingly fast time getting to care facility and best to her on healing up fast.

Old news, hot picture.

Ivan had told me that Sweet Fuckers fixed pins were gone. Yesterday I cleaned and retrobolted and once again, it's a Sweet Fucker although there are bolts not pitons. Tossed a couple extra in for good measure. Tiny to med cams, could 3/8" nuts, 4 draws and you're good. Tiny cams for the top crack would be real helpful.

I'll see your congrats and raise you a "HOLY CRAP!" Way to yank and crank!

What a thread revivalJon:-) Anyway,it's about time someone stepped up and got those bullshit 3rd world money wasting schools shut down. It was a stupid idea and no one should be allowed to try such bodacious things anyway. We have enough problems in this country trying to get a decent latte without wasting small sums in squalid 3rd work countries where people don't make as much in a year what we pay for a windshirt or a pack. And it's damned nice to see that not only has that stupid idea been trashed but at least Krakauer has personally benefited financially from this "expose" in a big way, and not the guy doing the scary and actual work who was putting his dick wayyy out there for guys like Krakauer to safety stomp on from behind the curtains. JK's on the way to being a 1 percenter. Woot! Good to see the money get consolidated. It's the American way baby. Trash those who "do" and "create" and make a buck while doing it.

You're sayin' this is good shit then. See, there's another surprise.