billcoe

Found it. Chinese actress Pan Shuangshuang. Looks like she Ice climbs too and the axe isn't held backwards.:-) More to be had here: http://www.redflava.com/2011/gossip/hong-kong-gossip/mavis-pan-bed-photos/

I want to see the other side...to...er...confirm that the front is back there. Yeah, that's it. Strange that it got put on backasswards. I wonder if it was because it looked better that way. Where did you fish this pic out of Rocky Joe? An ad most likely.

Ditto! I'd like to say that my post upthread is incorrect. All 3 of the lads were present and it was Dave who did the solid job on the narration. Bravo Good times!

For over 25 years, until my kids were in school and finances looked stable I went with wool from the Goodwill or homemade GoreTex. Worked fine. I don't know who is state of the art, but I just grabbed a Patagonia Nano Puff, and I'm just shocked at how awesome it is. (F%%$K the kids, they're on they're own these days:-) Buy the best you can afford, you only spin around once and then it's into the dirt with ya. That's all I have. I was hoping that guys like Frieh, Sol, Dane, Mikey et cetc would chirp in here...even if they might be getting the free stuff.....

Is that tomorrow?

Where do you live and how far do you want to drive? Your location tag line says you live in Salt Lake city...think Moab, Zion, etc etc will be awesome. Is it sunny rock or something else you want? For sunny rock Smith will certainly be fantastic, so will Hell's canyon and some other spots. Don't ya think that Index and Squamish will be wet. Maybe Leavenworth will be a worthwhile drive.....

I'm heading to City of Rocks. Thought I sent you an email seeing if you wanted to join in. Cars full now, but we can still tie in if you get there. Might be too cold anyway. My alternative is to keep heading down to Moab, Castleton south side etc etc (stuff in sun) if the city is cold and windy. Like pete suggests

Wednesday March 7 2012 at the Mazamas (527 Southeast 43rd Avenue, Portland, OR 97215). FREE! John Frieh will be narrating the climb that he, Zac West and Dave Burdick did of the first ascent of the Burkett Needle's east arete. Maybe John can show up with some pictures here later at some point to amp the pre-show stokage...... http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web11f/newswire-needle-in-a-storm BTW, I wandered into that Mazamas auditorium and they have a small but kick assed climbing wall with cracks and everything.

I can't say about stats or records Blake. It's more like the conventional wisdom. I might have only heard of one personal experience of a failure, and that's been so many years (maybe over 20) I'd want to ask the guy to confirm it: old Oregon climber named Steve Strauch I think told me he cut through the webbing with the rap rope and got lucky. Conventional wisdom like not using a Bowline to tie in with. Maybe the reasons just gets lost. Tieing in with a bowline use to be much more common than using a using a figure 8 to tie in. I can't point you to stats or records of deaths, but I know that has happened for both bowline tie ins and rapping off webbing. That's why those few who do still tie in with a bowline these days use the Yosemite finish or a double bowline that's usually well dressed and invariably seems to have a backup stopper type of knot. Deaths from either of these occurrences seem to be close to non-existent these days as both bowlines and rapping directly off of a single webbing strand are not common. But both are still serious juju. Vid below not totally representative, but back in the day people set this up simulated rapping and the pressure (weight) is much more, so requires less strokes to break the webbing. Naturally, overhangs are worse than lower angle raps, the more weight you put on a rope, the easier it is to melt the webbing. The webbing melts it doesn't cut. I've never heard if doing it in the cold reduces the effect but I imagine it would make a difference. Leaving all that tat and just adding your new piece isn't often a bad idea to increase your safety margin if you don't want to leave a biner. [video:youtube] regards

Good stuff. I think that the major issue I'd have is what Gene brings up. You are potentially looking at being a stupid statistic if you cut away all the old webbing, leave your new one and do a double rope rap right on webbing with differing stretch characteristics in your ropes. People have died doing that before, and undoubtedly will again. Not just a 10mm and a 6mm tied together, but potentially 2 same sized ropes of differing brands. Very very Bad Bad idea. Burn a biner.

Gene gives great advice. Add Fish Products to the list as well, but don't be in a hurry. If it's a Metolius cam Pat, go to Metolius, they will fix that (those?) thing(?) up so it looks new. Great work, dirt cheap. http://www.fishproducts.com/catalog/productlinefs.html Repairs & so forth section...

and thanks for posting pics of your son grandson too Dave. Sounds like a great backpacking adventure about to happen! Have fun.

You will have a choice between a tax and spend democrat or a borrow and spend republican. Paul won't be in it. Let's hope for vote and change as the way things are heading, the next election will be Pee Wee Herman vs Madonna.

Holy smokes Bearbreeder...who makes that and whats it stuffed with? I always leave my expensive jackets at home rather than take them along and go screw them up by using them. It's just a matter of time till that strategy bites me in the ass......

Wanna see a pic of some corn?

Had Chicken for dinner. Sorry Rooster. Wish it was sunny and warm out again.

OK, but you first....

No need to go any further than Crillz post. I 100% agree. This stuff below (except for the kids play area) is all bullshit and unneeded. * A kids' play area (not a bad idea actually) A juice bar Beer A sauna Indoor deep water soloing I can get beer at home, DWS is overrated and all those people lining up for those routes will be getting the rocks super wet. All that is needed is cracks, real ones, varied and long....not the kind Dave alludes too:-) LONG!!!!! So you can get some cardio going. This area is supersaturated with gyms, and all of them are damned good. PRG, Stoneworks and Circuit all great. BUT, none have the crack thing going on. Club Sport has 3 cracks but they are strange and few people seem to get on them. I think PRG might have put some in I haven't been there for a long time. Make the F**King things adjustable in steepness so that when some 10 year old pup who's climbing 5.13 gets on it he can adjust it real steep and overhanging but then an old weak pussy like myself gets on it I can ratchet it back to something that resembles Glacier Point Apron. You know what I mean. And different sizes too, with constrictions that mimic real rock. The Mazamas clubhouse in PDX has that almost going on on their wall.

HEY NOW

piss off wanker

Opps. Caught with an innovative friends and family plan similar to what you outlined above. Can we still blame Bush? Titled "U.S. drones targeting rescuers and mourners" http://www.salon.com/2012/02/05/u_s_drones_targeting_rescuers_and_mourners/singleton/ The last line. Romney, same same with no Nobel prize is all, don't hold yer breath for hope or change after the next election bros, we got us a system going on here. A system. Paul is the only candidate suggesting we are way out of line here. What a nutjob. Clearly no one else (except Jayb it seems) gives a shit.

In a sea of amazing lil up and coming Sharma like kids - your's is up near the top of the list someplace. Congrats for you both. Few things are as fun as climbing with your kid. I love the positive energy and fun loving psyched up spirit all these kids bring.

I'm sure. That probably applies to Rob and some of the other bros here too I'd bet. Playing a douchbag online is all too easy...sadly. Sometimes people just get all stoked and it gets misinterpreted by us old fucks. Later geriatrics!

Although I almost agree with that I'd have to call bullshit on that statement Pat. You'd be horrified. Hell, I'd be horrified and me being much closer to being a nutjob: as you know, I espouse a lot of what he says. I know that we both like to see some of those major issues he'd bring to the table be in the debate though. It looks like it won't happen. Anyway, he doesn't have a chance for the nomination, and he's older than Reagan was before Reagan got alzheimers....there is that....and the button. Hope I got them commas right for Miss panitesinabunchpunctuation up there. Regards to all.

I care, in fact I care A LOT: but "none of the above" is leading my choices right now. It looks like I will be writing that in.