billcoe

Good advise up thread. I was on a rescue years back. Rode up with the sheriff and we woke up my buddy Mike at o dark thirty cause he was the only other known climber on the Mt. Mike had done a solo lap up Steele cliffs (Mount Hood) same day as dude but he knew the storm was a coming so he was boogying and got back in time. Mike had seen dude coming up as he was going down and described what he knew of location and equipment to us. When we got there the weather was so bad that us rescuers could barely stand up. In the parking lot. I was wondering if we might lose a rescuer or 2 it was that bad. Kept tied in together to keep from blowing away. We hung out for 5 days looking for the guy. It was butt-assed cold too, I think it was February. They called it off as the weather started clearing figuring he was a gonner buried under 3 feet of fresh snow and all the rescuers and sheriffs went home. Cept for me an another guy. I use to like it up there and took to hanging out in my free time at odd places on the Mt. So I figured I'd just stay and eventually find a ride home. I'm scratching my ass waking up slow and figuring I'll grab my axe and do a late start lap in the good weather but keep my eyes open for the body when right then the dude, alive, pops into the hut. Dude was a rich Californian skiier who didn't know shit about the mountains. He was smart enough to have a shovel and had dug a snow cave and he survived the horrible conditions somewhat protected, inside of it. He had top shelf expensive gear and in fact, a pair of plastic boots. When I saw him I just figured that he was gonna get some toes chopped. I've seen that happen before, frostbite comes easy in those conditions. The medics peeled off his new plastic boots and his feet looked like blanched white wrinkled prunes... NO frostbite. I asked him what he did for his feet (I was thinking along the lines of "Oh I put on the down booties I have stuffed in the bottom of my pack:-)" Nope, dude said he'd been wearing the plastic boots all week, didn't take them off once. I had him repeat that part LOL. I became a plastic boot believer for big mountains. So what that means to you is that you'll probably have to do what everyone else is doing, just buy multiple shoes/boots for different types of climbing. As noted above, fit is everything no matter what you get.

I don't know where kids learn this stuff today.

Ditto on what Wayne said. The picture on the book was classic. I remember thinking, "I HAVE to do that route, and being surprised to learn it was only 5.7...but a damned serious one at that if such can be said of a 5.7. Sorry to hear it was cancer. Soon, all too soon, we too must all follow Nick into the void..... at least he cut enough of a swath while he was with us here to be remembered. (pretty much what Ivan said there) RIP Nick.

Whoa, I did a lap Friday and saw a Preying Mantis walking right up the rock while I was belaying my buddy up the 4th pitch of Young Warriors. Had not seen a Mantis for years. Didn't know they could type. As far as the article goes, There has been a deep drought in the US this year. Yet I've seen Costco smoked salmon prices go from $9.99 to 16.99 in the same period (same brand, same size), and there doesn't seem to be any drought in the ocean. Food and gas have gone up in price across the board with few exceptions. Fortunately, inflation as the gov't measures it is nowhere to be seen.[/satirical final comment]

Anyone looking for a little outside conditioning? Trail building and trail work opportunities in WA. - PDXers, note first Cape Horn date is full already:-) Slots available for later. http://www.wta.org/volunteer/trail-work-parties

You afraid to post the list? http://thinkprogress.org/politics/2012/10/04/958801/at-last-nights-debate-romney-told-27-myths-in-38-minutes/?mobile=nc

Jeff and I just got off the Crusin, Corner, Young Warriors link up. mmmmm good stuff. The fall nip was in the air and it was perfect in the sun. Felt like a high gravity day but still hella fun, maybe the wind gusts to 25-30 mph going sideways which made hanging onto the crux's of YW a tad difficult can be blamed this time instead the the usual: Age, sick, tired, shoulders killing me. Shoulders have been iced and ibuprofened.

I enjoyed watching it, thought both men reprezented well (despite what the press keeps saying about a clear Romney win). Glad I tuned in.

Cilogear, local, made in PDX, work class kit. You can walk right in there and talk to Graham. Once you get over the price tag and own a Cilogear, you'll forget the cost and enjoy it every time you take it out. Seriously. Damned thing will last a long time, if you amortise the enjoyment you get from having a topnotch piece of gear over the life span, it's a real sweet ratio. When I was younger I'd by cheaper stuff. Unfortunately, it later becomes and impediment to buying good stuff. (ie, well, I don't really like that item, but already own one so I don't need 2 now). Ciologear soloing the Old Witch on the FA. (got the rope stuffed inside of it, the top pops on and off) Same gear last weekend hiking with Sadie-May the Trailer Park Flosie at Angels Rest in the Gorge.

Don't know whos winning the debate, but looks like an awesome route - thanks for sharing the link Bob. It looks like a 3rd party is doing the write up, and they simply might have meant to say "Ground up", instead of "onsight".

Big X I'd bet. Cover the whole rock? LOL. Like, how would you get the X big enough to cover everything in this shot?

See if this is more palatable to ya, same word, different symbols: Pic them up at Stoner Arms. This one as well:

Summation: Short rope, long route, no knot. http://davemacleod.blogspot.ca/2012/10/end-of-line-for-short-while.html Reminiscent of Lynn Hills accident, as in world class climber reminding us all once again..... like we need to hear it....

https://www.nationalreview.com/nrd/articles/328692/losing-iraq?pg=1 Been a pretty good discussion upthread 5 years back or so of the mistakes and bungling the Bush crew made. It really saddens me to see that: A) We went in there to begin with. B) Went in totally half assed. C) Our exit, under our "glorious leader" Obama, was as bad of a misstep as anything which went before. We took our eyes off the prize and it cost us. If you look up "Epic Fail" in the urban dictionary it should list this debacle as the example. Lastly, and this is related, congrats to President Obama for bumping the CAFE standards (2nd time, I gave kudos the first time as well which was right after he was elected). It shows a marked and radical difference in the lack of intelligence and thought Romney would bring to this issue of energy independence as he's opposed to the standards. Barring a full-on energy policy review by experts in that field (which has needed to occur for the last several Presidencies), what Obama did is good for the country, what Romney would do could, and most likely would be, ruinous. I'm done with both parties. I've voting Gary Johnson. We need to get the US budget under control #1 issue. Neither one of the 2 current candidates, Romney nor Obama, have given it more than a passing mention. The deficit has gone from 4 trillion under the cut taxes and spend Bush to over 16 trillion dollars under the cut taxes and spend President Obama. They both have a "Don't ask don't tell" or give any kind of a shit attitude on what is the most pressing issue of our time. That we just pissed 1 trillion bucks or more down the sink in Iraq to become less safe militarily is small consolation that it was a "bi-partisan" effort which we can thank most of the congressmen and senators, along with Bush and Obama. BTW, each of you, if you are paying taxes, owes and average of $140,000 in back taxes. You haven't seen the bill come in the mail yet, but that's what is is. Still growing daily as well. The longer we wait, the worse it will be, and it could be real bad right now, as no one seems to have any control over the debt. Furthermore, no one has to divulge how much money the Fed, a group of private banks, are making to finance this debt. Right now, they are doing the job. Their charter with the US government allows them a 5% profit. Did we really just have to pay them $10,800,000,000,000 to play charades with our money and enable the further indebtedness of the country? Snipits of link: "Trillion dollars here, Trillion dollars there, pretty soon it adds up to real money." LOL (Thanks for that Senator Dirkson)

On the money! Woot! Acme mapper for the win! Here is the trial and sweetwater spring location. Geoff imbibing of same: Spring runs year round. Look across the talus. Head for the 2nd set of Maple trees and listen when you get close for the running water. Runs year round.

Old guys, up early for a corner lap to have it to themselves. Find 2 young dudes racked up and ready at the base. Cruisemaster shortcut to the anchors, old dude follows (does full route) in his approach shoes. Still no young dudes? Schweet! Passed cleanly and route to ourselves never saw them. Stopped every 20 steps on the descent, said hi to all the folks. Back at the car at 10:26am. afternoon nap. Went for a walk in the park with the pup. Managed to go all day without a drink! Perfect day.

Onion editor Will Tracy's take on it:

Best glue depends on what rock you are going into. As is noted above, pretty safe bet that any of the 2 part construction epoxy, such as the Simpson sold at Home Depot, will be bomber around here. Here are some links I drug up in 2007 when I was investigating it. Hope that they all work. As you appear to know, cleanliness of the hole is critical as Num1mc reiterates. So is giving enough room for the glue.

OK, Fars took it down. Finally figured out that they'd read a satire story, believe it was true and plagerized it. Word for word. Except they didn't steal, and left out the part about their President being a Holocaust denier and executioner. Whats even funnier is that the Onion saw that their work had been stolen and reported as fact, so they put a link up to the fars news site at the bottom of their story which said: " (Link not working since the Iranians discovered that the story was a joke they took it off their site. LOL Opps, forgot that part. LOL

[font:Arial Black]"Gallup Poll: Rural Whites Prefer Ahmadinejad to Obama"[/font] http://english.farsnews.com/newstext.php?nn=9106242628 Today Fars, the official Iranian (Farsi) news site, joyfully reports the results of a recent Gallup poll (in English). (Note Terahan location in the byline) LOL!!!! Tooo damned funny. Of further interest and of note is that the Onion already broke this story, word for word and a few extra words as well, 3 days ago with a byline location of West Virgina! LOL http://www.theonion.com/articles/gallup-poll-rural-whites-prefer-ahmadinejad-to-oba,29677/ Anyone spot the words which the Iranians removed?

Ok, at least we know you're supplying the brews:-) My brother showed up from a Utah trip with this shirt for me to wear. He knows I love Porters, but I don't think that's why it cracks him up every time he sees it.

I'm speechless. Some British guy at Needle Sports has a brief write up you should read. http://www.needlesports.com/catalogue/content.aspx?con_id=d7376987-c60a-437e-a15a-9c9e00a6a466

Whoa! 2hours? Hey man, good meeting you too. Probably been 25 years since I'd seen Dennis. Little bit embarrassing not recognizing him LOL!

If ever a match was made in capitalist heaven, it's those 2. It will be all about the buck until they start paying off the lawsuits coming down the pike like a freight train down a hill without brakes.

Looks like you all have found a way to help keep the poor at home. Only $2,906,000,000 left to go and you'll have your budget balanced. Elitists rule!!! Good think ya all didn't vote republican or it could have gotten ugly for dem poah folk. How about being the first in the nation to outsource the corrections dept to China? Long term prisoners, lifers, get shipped off? They can be productive and help build Apple products and stuff? You're welcome! Need more ideas? here ya are, flesh these out: *Baby Tax. *Rent a prisoner. *Coke Machines next to the road. *On the highway, where you see those crosses where someone has been killed? Lease the space. Renewal form letters are heavily guilt laden. *Wild Horse uhhh, lets call it the "enumclaw" program, and read between the lines. Double down and get the movie industry involved for some seriously unique man/horse love residuals. Need more? *Legislator shoe shine and lemon aid stand at airport. Staffed by the Jr senators. Hope the gov is reading this, I've just started to brainstorm and look at the magic!