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billcoe

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Everything posted by billcoe

  1. OK, but make sure you don't start showing up posting Trip reports to the Portland Rock Gym (PRG) cause if you do there are folks who will be damn moody and vocal about it if you do! Not like it's real climbing...and shouldn't this be in the techniques and training and not the rockclimbing forum anyway? I must sound so old sometimes......
  2. You need to edumacate those who do not have a clue then or it's on you as much as them. I haven't been to carver for years, but it seems like you guys that do go there need to be proactive. Just be calm and let folks know all the details when you bump into them. Be proactive and things will be fine, let it slide and the landowner will have no choice it appears. Good luck!
  3. Thanks Mark. I don't recall seeing many of these (I maybe never have seen one) yet. Can anyone else say if they are aware of this hanger being located on other routes or anyplace else? Has anyone here besides Pete ever seen a Kong - Bonatti hanger before? I don't remember ever seeing one. (but I live a sheltered life:-) Probably need to get some widespread reporting out there for other climbers in other areas to share the info and look for more hangers to verify condition of any still in play.
  4. billcoe

    Dropping a Tree

    OMG ! I almost sprayed cider through my nose! Porter, great find. You can see the tree leaning right towards the house...the woman doesn't see it, nor does the saw operator. No one gets hurt and they still have a place to sleep in while they consider this entire experience.... classic! Kimmo, hope you get this on video and U-tube it for sure!!! Of course, yours will be flawless.
  5. Radek is a local and posts on CC.com as FGW. They did a solid lap up Lurking Fear on El Cap earlier and that excellent trip report got noted on this site. I wonder if he didn't want to put this on this site due to some of the needless crap we posters sometimes give folks.....I really don't know, but the Summit posters response's all seem pretty supportive, and I wonder if that would be duplicated here. Noticed that this thread seemed to start in spray, as if it would go down hill. Hopefully this thread stays civil....even though it is in "spray" where anything is suppose to be allowed. Take care all, but especially you folks Radek and Shirley, that kind of thing isn't good at all, wish you both well.
  6. billcoe

    Bacon dust...

    That's not chalk in the lower part of the Bacon Peak picture above, I think it's just clouds.....that would be a lot of chalk. JH, I was thinking of you: I just got back from an afterwork Warriors lap. there was almost NO chalk, OK some but minimal, on the route.
  7. "Right now just be extra cool when you're out there and if an older guy comes up and ask to see your ID or if you've signed the waiver, be very polite." Well said....I'd add, that if you see others there be pro-active and asked them this and discuss the other rules before the "Old Guy" arrives. I once helped some ranchers birth some sheep in early spring while hunting Carnelian Agate. I just wanted them to unlock a Weyerhauser gate so I could access a stream bed and I knew they had the key. Instead, I saw they were damn busy so I gave up my day to help. Basically I helped them birth lambs (this is as much of an assholes and elbows hustle up job as I've ever done). The ranchers, a man and a woman alone who were radically understaffed and could have used 3 or 4 more hands) were eternally grateful. I was eagerly, heartily and happily greeted as a close friend and partner each and every time I showed up thereafter. Many others were later refused access, it turns out the ranchers could make the call based on the attitude test. If we all keep the landowners needs on the top of the things to be thinking of things will end up OK.
  8. billcoe

    Bacon dust...

    Bacon Peak (mitochondrias photo) Just trying to help.
  9. billcoe

    Dropping a Tree

    Added an extra word in there for you, and easily hired out to an expert too. Doing more of it will get you the experience to do it safer, but that's why you hire it out, most of those tree guys do it cheaper than I could imagine doing something similar for. Watching an expert work his magic is amazing. .....jus' saying'.....
  10. Bill I seem to remember a picture with some blood on a pant leg or something along those lines. Snap crackle pop must be different then holes in your knee right? Oh yeah....I had forgotten about that - so ... abuh abuh abuh.....DOHHHH....but that was ....ahhh ..... nevermind....I can see I'm in do as I say not as I do mode. I think I do that to my kids too and it never works good there either. The route got a snazzy name. Kyle, seen here to my right after we had gotten down to the ground and Lost Cam Kenny (left) was getting ready to do the 2nd ascent, named it "Wounded Knee". OK: I remember now cause it screwed up my Yosemite trip. If I'd just gone and elevated, iced and stitched it up immediately instead of hanging around and climbing on it, it most likely would have been healed by the time I went to Yos and I could have been climbing and wouldn't have been "Camp Bitch". My main point is that we all are wishing you a speedy recovery Selkirk. Unfortunately I don't know any docs in Seattle. But I bet there will be plenty of advice on it subject soon. Good luck!!! (BTW, what Mt Guide says above still goes for me too:-) )
  11. A truly amazing demonstration of the moron mindset. "It's all true, because he says so on his website!" ...and yet you bring NOTHING to the table to debunk Moore or anything he has ever said. I personally know there is plenty, but what does that say about you?
  12. Dude dude dude, this is where you were suppose to stop, elevate and ice....Dude!
  13. I could talk a lot of sh*t about Michael Moore, but I don't recall him asking US to bail HIM out? So even if he did make 50 million, he's not asking congress for help is he? Did I miss something? From the trailer, it looks like he had very little and still turned it into an interesting watch.
  14. Wishing you a ride for sure!!! To anyone reading this who's heading this way and on the fence, Bryans a great guy and good company. I'll both vouch for him and give you the "Waynes World" No Honk Guarantee if you need it.
  15. Bet they worked their asses off to find music that sucked so bad.
  16. billcoe

    I LOVE PENIS

    Whats it called on the menu? "Cream of sum yung Bull?
  17. I got yer free willy right here.... The moral of the story: remember to wrap yer willy.
  18. Clearly there is an important role for scientists doing public work and for public servants Joesph. I wish I had an example on hand, I'm sure there are some and won't argue otherwise. What you are seeing above is my knee jerk reaction due to an underlying belief I have that Government (capitol G) seems to have as it's main job expansion and propagation (at CITIZEN expense) of their powers, roles, importance and remuneration. As it's been happening piecemeal since the start of the country with little let up, often with little forethought or planning: I get pissed and it can come out at odd and incorrectly timed moments. I have been getting more crotchety on this subject as I age. I have plenty of examples of the latter part of that explanation if you need them. Regards
  19. billcoe

    Did I get pwned?

    Nice call! Show them this post and it's yours:-)
  20. I don't know sh* t about it, I just wanted to wish you well. Good luck Mikester. Bill
  21. I like running it out on moderate terrain... I have found it helps me remain calm on ice and/or alpine routes where gear isn't readily available for whatever reason. This TR is a thing of true beauty. I've looked at it 4 or 5 times now. Great pictures!
  22. Who's Henry Rollins and why should we care again? I missed that part I think. I only showed up for the Eddy Van Halen/Vallery Bertanelli update....
  23. billcoe

    Note to self

    Best wishes and a reminder that fall and winter rains are on the way. But not this weekend:-) ...if you get my drift.
  24. billcoe

    slow news

    http://www.cracked.com/article/100_the-5-ballsiest-lies-ever-passed-off-as-journalism_p2 Ahhh, the days of William Randolf Hearst and lies to boost readership. " The 5 Ballsiest Lies Ever Passed off as Journalism By Erica Cantin Aug 27, 2009 Stephen Glass's Favorite Movie was Apparently Jerry Maguire Before May 18, 1998, Stephen Glass was a 24-year-old reporter for The New Republic. His articles were funny and informative, and always pretty sensational. And, sure, there were plenty of subjects that screamed "Fraud!" after Glass had written about them, but no one likes the way they get represented in the paper. Especially when you lie about them, which Glass did, unabashedly. Despite all the complaints, what really brought Glass's downfall was a short article titled "Hack Heaven," which described both a hackers' convention and a business meeting between a teenage hacker and a "large California software firm" Jukt Micronics: Another Hack Heaven. Ian Restil, a 15-year-old computer hacker who looks like an even more adolescent version of Bill Gates, is throwing a tantrum. "I want more money. I want a Miata. I want a trip to Disney World. I want X-Men comic [book] #1. I want a lifetime subscription to Playboy--and throw in Penthouse. Show me the money! Show me the money!" Across the table, executives from a California software firm called Jukt Micronics are listening and trying ever so delicately to oblige. "Excuse me, sir," one of the suits says tentatively to the pimply teenager. "Excuse me. Pardon me for interrupting you, sir. We can arrange more money for you..." According to the story, Jukt Micronics was so eager to hire and please Restil because Restil hacked into their database, posted the salaries of every employee in the company on the company's homepage and garnished the entire hack with several pictures of naked ladies (also displayed prominently on the company's homepage). This was all, of course, total bullshit and, even though the story went through several fact checkers, no one noticed just exactly how bullshitty it was (so bullshitty, you guys). To be fair to The New Republic this was 1998, a time when many people actually did believe back-end mouth breathers were capable of taking down large corporations with just a few key strokes, presumably while listening to techno and posting pictures of boobs on the front page of the CIA website. We guess the technology of '98 was so new and scary to the staff of The New Republic that they couldn't be bothered to club "Jukt Micronics" into a search engine. The article did, however catch the attention of Forbes Digital, and when word got around to Glass that those nerds at Forbes smelled a rat, he whipped up fake business cards, phony voicemail accounts in California, a dummy AOL members website for the software company and actually got his brother to pose as the voice of the CEO of Jukt Micronics. And he would've gotten away with it, too, if it wasn't for those meddling Forbes fact-checkers, and also logic. Glass was fired within a day, and went on to write an unsuccessful novel based on his experiences. #1. Pulitzer and Hearst's Pissing Contest Started a Goddamn War Stephen Glass and Dateline are opportunists. Ben Franklin's a Grand Imperial Dick Wizard and Mark Twain just likes screwing with people. But Joseph Pulitzer and William Randolph Hearst, ladies and gentlemen, are the fathers of yellow journalism. Hearst and Pulitzer: total fuckbaskets. In the late 1800s, Joseph Pulitzer (owner of The New York World) and William Randolph Hearst (owner of The New York Journal) were engaged in a vicious battle over who had the larger circulation. In an ethically questionable display of one-upmanship, the two media giants dick slapped moral reporting several times a day to out-circulate the other, each paper coming out with a story more sensational than the other paper published the day before. When a rebellion in Cuba against the Spanish started brewing, Hearst and Pulitzer saw a golden opportunity; they'd report on the situation in Cuba to sell papers, and if the situation wasn't interesting, they'd make shit up because journalism is easy when you don't have a soul. Hearst and Pulitzer would take sensationalized, unverified stories of made-up atrocities, make those stories even more sensationalized and then feed the twice-baked-sensationalizations to the American people as the truth. And the people, thanks to the papers, believed that America had an ethical obligation to step in and save those Cubans. Every John Q. Public with a paper assumed that the Spanish warlords were raping and murdering the poor, defenseless Cubans and leaving them in rotting piles on the side of the road, because that's the kind of story you write when you own a newspaper and are bored. When a Journal news photographer attempted to leave Cuba, reporting to Hearst that the situation wasn't as bad as Hearst had reported, Hearst sent a cable boasting, "Please remain. You furnish the pictures, I'll furnish the war." Then the USS Maine, an American warship, blew the fuck up under questionable circumstances. Post-explosion, President McKinley demanded an immediate investigation, but Hearst and Pulitzer demanded even more immediate "THE SPANISH DID IT" headlines. Their reporting was so immediate, in fact, that word had reached the American people about Spain's involvement in the sinking before the investigation even started. To this day, we don't know why exactly the Maine exploded, we just know why it didn't: the Spanish. But that didn't get in the way of headlines! What a scoop! The catchy rallying cry that resulted--"Remember the Maine! To hell with Spain!"--was just the propaganda tool a young and soon to be outstandingly mustachioed Teddy Roosevelt was looking for to satisfy his itch for a new war. Proving that no mere mortal can withstand Teddy Roosevelt, the war was over in a matter of weeks and Pulitzer and Hearst basked in the afterglow, all while continuing their reporting charades which included failing to mention that the iconic battle in the Spanish American War was actually thanks to an African American cavalry. Shine on you crazy diamonds!" ________________________________________________________________ The good old days of responsible journalism....
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