billcoe

Well, good to see that it looks like the plot thickens on the racist bullshit charge. It appears that despite what JB says above, advertisers, despite how popular Beck is, are pulling out Beck and starting to pull out of Fox itself, and not merely shifting their adds to other Fox affiliates and shows. Maybe Beck will get a show with Imus, who said something much more innocuous and paid for it. I had no love for Beck before this event, but the disdain I felt use to be fairly mild in comparison. If I could see the evidence Beck used to call Obama racist, I might change my mind, till then, I'll just consider him a dickhead. http://news.yahoo.com/s/ap/20090824/ap_on_en_tv/us_tv_beck_s_advertisers_6 "NEW YORK – Glenn Beck returns to Fox News Channel on Monday after a vacation with fewer companies willing to advertise on his show than when he left, part of the fallout from calling President Barack Obama a racist. A total of 33 Fox advertisers, including Wal-Mart Stores Inc., CVS Caremark, Clorox and Sprint, directed that their commercials not air on Beck's show, according to the companies and ColorofChange.org, a group that promotes political action among blacks and launched a campaign to get advertisers to abandon him. That's more than a dozen more than were identified a week ago. While it's unclear what effect, if any, this will ultimately have on Fox and Beck, it is already making advertisers skittish about hawking their wares within the most opinionated cable TV shows. The Clorox Co., a former Beck advertiser, now says that "we do not want to be associated with inflammatory speech used by either liberal or conservative talk show hosts." The maker of bleach and household cleaners said in a statement that it has decided not to advertise on political talk shows....." http://www.huffingtonpost.com/james-rucker/verizon-lowes-johnson-joh_b_267302.html Verizon, Lowe's, Johnson & Johnson, 13 more drop Glenn Beck Our campaign calling on Glenn Beck's advertisers to stop supporting his show continues to pick up steam. Today we're announcing that sixteen more companies have pledged not to run their ads on Beck's show: The new companies distancing themselves from Beck include Airware Inc. (makers of Brez anti-snoring aids), Ancestry.com, AT&T, Blaine Labs Inc., Campbell Soup Company, Clorox, Ditech, The Elations Company, Experian (creator of FreeCreditReport.com), Farmers Insurance Group, Johnson & Johnson (makers of Tylenol), Lowe's, NutriSystem, Sprint, The UPS Store and Verizon Wireless. That brings the total to 36 companies that have pulled their support from Beck or given explicit instructions that their ads are not to run on the show. It's all because more than 160,000 ColorOfChange members connected the dots for Glenn Beck's advertisers and called on them to stop supporting his show. We want to say thank you to everyone who's participated in this campaign. We could also use your help. We brought on additional staff for the campaign in order to drive as many advertisers away as possible. We need to keep them in order to maximize the number of advertisers that drop Beck and to make sure none come back. Anything you can provide will help us get there -- whether $10, $20, $50, or more. You can make a contribution to help move the campaign forward, here. More on how the campaign has been going, and statements from the new companies distancing themselves from Beck, after the jump. Demanding accountability After we first launched this campaign, our staff began contacting advertisers to convey the concerns of our members and ask advertisers to stop supporting Beck. Most advertisers decided to do the right thing after hearing about what Beck is doing, and that so many people are concerned about it. Some needed evidence of the level of outrage, so we flooded with comments from people that signed the petition to advertisers. Others needed a picture of what it would look like for their company's name and brand to be publicly associated with Beck's rhetoric, so we showed them that, too. Then there were those that refused to answer our calls or respond to our emails. Red Lobster, Vonage, Clorox, Lowe's, and Experian fell into that category, and we asked some of our members to give them a call. By the end of last week, ColorOfChange members made more than 2,800 calls to those five companies, and in just two days, three out of the five -- Experian, Clorox, and Lowe's -- pulled their ads. We're still waiting to hear if Red Lobster or Vonage have changed their minds, and we'll follow up with them this week. Here are statements from the advertisers recently distancing themselves from Beck: "...Sprint ads appeared as part of a broader rotational package of advertising purchased on the Fox Network," said Kathleen Dunleavy, a Sprint spokesperson, in an email to ColorOfChange.org. "They were not specifically targeted to the Glenn Beck Show nor should they air during this program going forward." "...I wanted to let you know that we have taken steps to make sure that [sprint] will not be advertising on the Glenn Beck show," Dunleavy later reiterated in a phone message to ColorOfChange.org. "While we will continue to advertise on news programming, including FOX News, there are certain programs on the FOX Network that do not meet Lowe's advertising guidelines, including The O'Reilly Factor and Glenn Beck Program," said Meliski Cox, a spokesperson for Lowe's, in an email to ColorOfChange.org. "Per our advertising standards, we don't advertise in programs that display exploitive sex or violence, treat ethnic, religious, or political groups in a disparaging manner, present facts inaccurately or distort them to blatantly partisan advantage, and treat individuals or groups in a demeaning manner", said Adam Oberweiser, a spokesperson for Clorox, in a phone message to a ColorOfChange.org member. "We have had limited advertisements on the Glenn Beck Program in the past, however the statements he made during that show would not adhere to our programming standards. Furthermore, we will not be advertising on his program in the future since he did violate our own advertising standards." "We have addressed the issue," said Rich Hallibran, a spokesperson for The UPS Store, in a phone message to ColorOfChange.org. "You will not see our ads on The Glenn Beck TV program." "We are no longer advertising on Beck's program," said Susan McGowan, Senior Director of Public Relations at NutriSystem, Inc., in an email to ColorOfChange.org. "You can now include us with the other companies that have stopped advertising." In a phone conversation with ColorOfChange.org, a spokesperson for AT&T, Daryl Evans, said that their company already had Beck's program on a 'Do Not Air' list for their ads, and if an advertisement was seen during 'Glenn Beck' it was placed in error. Evans pledged to call Fox News and correct that error. In a phone conversation with ColorOfChange.org, Marcy Smith, Director of Advertising for Experian Consumer Direct, confirmed that due to the number and frequency of complaints they have received, they have specifically asked Fox News to pull any of their ads from Glenn Beck's program and distribute their ads to other shows in the rotation. "We obviously neither condone nor endorse Mr. Beck's comments," said Anthony Sanzio, a Campbell Soup Company spokesman, in a phone conversation with ColorOfChange.org. "We were not pleased when we heard them [the comments] and they certainly don't reflect the views of this company. We have no advertising currently slated for Mr. Beck's program and don't have any plans for the future." "In light of the consistency of comments that are made, we don't plan to advertise there in the future," Sanzio continued. "We have communicated to our media buying agency that we will not be advertising on that show." "Thank you for bringing this to our attention," said Marc Monseau, Director of Corporate Communications for Johnson & Johnson, in an email to ColorOfChange.org. "These advertisements ran on Glenn Beck as part of a rotational advertising package on Fox News, and I have shared your thoughts with those in our organization responsible for making those rotational buys. We have now informed the network to not include it in our rotation moving forward." In a phone conversation with ColorOfChange.org, Jim Gerace, Vice President of Corporate Communications for Verizon Wireless, confirmed that they added Beck's show to its "Do Not Air" list based on Beck's controversial track record. "We, on our own, looked at where we're spending our advertising," Gerace said. "We made a decision that we don't want to be advertising on that program for a lot of reasons." "We hear your concerns and are no longer advertising on the Glenn Beck show," said Cindy Thomas, Chief Marketing Officer for Ditech, in a phone message to ColorOfChange.org. "Ancestry.com buys television advertising on many networks, including Fox News, but does not sponsor any specific content or program," said Mike Ward, Public Relations Director for Ancestry.com, in an email to ColorOfChange.org. "However, once this issue surfaced, we instructed Fox News to exclude our advertisements from the Glenn Beck program." "I wanted to let you know that AirWare Inc., the manufacturer of Brez anti-snoring aids, has instructed its advertising agency to insure that none of our advertisements run on the Glenn Beck show," said David Green, Director of Public Relations for AirWare, Inc., in an email to ColorOfChange.org. "Because of the way TV advertising is purchased, company executives were not aware in advance that our ads would be running on the show." "We have requested that the ads not appear on the Glen [sic] Beck show," said Dr. Robert Blaine, President and CEO of Blaine Labs, Inc., in an email to ColorOfChange.org. "Our contract is essentially a, 'fill in where there is empty space', [sic] and lately, I guess there has been a lot of empty space on the Beck show due to your organization. Our new contract comes up sometime in September and that show will be stricken from the rotation. We do not support [G]lenn eck and do not support his show." "What we did last Thursday was our advertising department requested of Fox News Channel that they no longer place a portion of our ads on the Glenn Beck Program [sic]," said a spokesperson for Farmers Insurance Group in a phone message to ColorOfChange.org. "Just want to let you know that we will no longer be advertising on that [Glenn Beck's] program," said David Silver, a spokesperson for The Elations Company

OMG! LOL !! Classic, MJ is truly in heaven!!! It looks like the coroner has, or soon will, soon rule MJs death a suicide. http://www.breitbart.com/article.php?id=D9A9FHEG1&show_article=1 "LOS ANGELES (AP) - A law enforcement official tells The Associated Press that the Los Angeles County coroner has ruled Michael Jackson's death a homicide. The finding makes it more likely criminal charges will be filed against the doctor who was with the pop star when he died. The official says the coroner determined a fatal combination of drugs was given to Jackson hours before he died in his rented Los Angeles mansion on June 25. The official spoke on condition of anonymity because the findings have not been publicly released. Forensic tests found the powerful anesthetic propofol in Jackson's system along with two sedatives, the official says. Dr. Conrad Murray, Jackson's personal physician, is the target of a manslaughter probe headed by Los Angeles police. "

yahhhhOOOOO! Sweet, I'll check out your site as well!

Thanks!!! The water looked bluer last time:-) Maybe your poster is aging. Edited: saw your post Rudy. Did I read correctly that he TR City Park without hanging at ALL? Yeah, it's amazing we can see it coming that the kids on the climbing team in the gym today will be out Sharmaing Sharma in a few years. Standards will be rising even higher. Should be interesting, you have kids like Alex Honnold doing some freeolos that Bachar would have not considered.

Wow, your boy looks older, like he's grown 6" and might be currently outclimbing the rest of us Rudy. Whats the City Park story, how'd he do etc etc? Stan has some amazing Tia stories, and I won't steal his thunder and his story, but that lil girl is like 11-12 now and pulling some sick hard stuff at Smith. Amazing. Tell the story if you would like.... ____________________________________________________________ HELL YES KEVIN!!! Good stuff there, air to spare!!!! The best ever pic of Jennifer was that one you guys used for the Ozone poster. God, I didn't know the area was so pretty. Even the Columbia river is blue! LOL You don't see that more than a few times a year it seems. Here's a pic of a Sherpa who was blessed by the Dali Lama, which is why he's so happy. I don't have any pics of him climbing though. Here's the poster:

take that bullshit someplace else kevin you got a climbing pic?... if not GTF out.

VIDEO!!!! This is going to a whole 'nother level. 2 classics no less! I don't see the gallon of water, you sure it's Brock? Well, at least he looks like he's working hard!!!! I think I almost got stuck in that thing, later someone told me that you just climb that crack on the left....I was like, MFer! So obvious. John, that Oak "tree" is the top of Silver Bullet @ 10' towards the "John Frieh Memorial Drytool Park". Huge.

John: is that the top of Travelers Buttress at the Leap? Have you been running around banging out the classics ? OMG, thats awesome!!!! What route is the top pic? That looks horrifically awesome too. Got any pics of your ass stuck in that squeeze chimney on P2 (assuming I guessed correctly)? Love the Leap but it's been a long while. _____________________________________________________________ Sounds like someone forgot their rock shoes:-) I will soon have a picture of a Poison Oak TREE. It's the largest I've ever seen....ever. I've been climbing right by it for 37 years and never noticed it before. I only noticed it last Thursday because the leaves, the closest of which is @ 20-25 feet off the deck, are changing color. I had spotted a red Poison Oak leaf on the ground as I solo topped out and was coiling the rope and was all like, WTF?....huh... where did this come from? Further examination led to the tree, the leaves were so high it was unidentifiable visually....except for that leaf on the ground and the fact that I've seen some get close to that size. The one Jim and those guys pulled doan at Ozone was 40 feet high and had a base stalk the size of a mans wrist. The base diameter on this monster is easily double that. _______________________________________________________________ Rudy, is that your lad on City Park? WTF!!!!! Wowza! Whats the story?

LOL! Hi Hanmi: check back in a year or 2 and lets see if the chickens were presaging something of huge significance..... BTW, I went to go see if you posted to the climbing pictures thread: HERE As you might be one of the best photographers on the site, you should be snapping and sharing!!!!! This one of Ivan (slacking) and I (working) about to launch a flake is 2 years old now?

it's your shoes...

indeed.

Does Eddie Van Halen need one? I think the d00ds shirt might be one of those that says: "if you can read this, my partner umm Eddie Van Halen umm - the bitch fell off the back". Would one of these even make it out to exit 38 and at $1300 bucks, I'd want one that tickled a sensitive area wouldn't you? I've never seen one in either case, and thought it interesting enough to share......discuss ? http://www.madsencycles.com/

My bad, partner asked me if I was bringing my camera and when I said yes he left his behind. Sooooo, I had it in the car but my Big Wally had maybe 65-70 lbs in it already including 2 ropes strapped to the top and in the hubbub of grabbing all the crap and a Maddox too I forgot to stuff the camera in. So, I have no climbing pics from the weekend. Damn. Anyone else have any pics they will share?

Welcome to the dark side! You'll find that with cam placements, often, a slight pocket, constriction or nubbin can be found within seconds and within inches of your placement if you look for it. Larger cams tend to walk more than smaller for me, and slinging a marginal cam placement is always a good idea as well. You'll find that when you get into hard fingercracks, the best and only finger lock is often the best nut placement as well, and you can sit and fiddle to get your fingers out of the perfect lock so you can slot a nut in the constriction while you pump out, or you can instantly plug and go a perfect green or yellow alien small mastercam right under or above the neck down spot where your fingers and your bodyweight are residing. Thats when one really starts loving cams.

Ditto, it would be nice to know what make, model and size the hangers were and have pictures as well.

It would be nice to know what make, model and size the hangers were. Perhaps pictures as well. Glad it wasn't worse for you. Whew!

Yeah dude, you got my sympathy for sure. I don't know jack about it. So go with the medical 2nd look thing. When I was in high school, bunch of us built a big, bad-assed jump up on the Mile at Timberline. I had what may have been a perfect jump going (In my mind) with some massive air, highest of the day. Things went awesome until the landing. I was a tad too far forward so that when I came down, both skiis popped off. That would have been fine except the right knee smacked onto the ski. Still gives me trouble till this day, in fact, it hurts more sleeping on it than climbing. Good luck!!!

"I use to have it all: eggs, garbage, grubs, bitches..... what happened!"

Dberdinka: short answer is yes! Jmace, I've heard of that happening in the desert while rapping, on sandstone after a rain and the sand is a slurry. Never seen it myself fortunately. Holy crap, I totally forgot about taking a shot at soloing up on that rope until I read this. I remember now what a F*ing rush that peeler was!!! Now, in retrospect, trying to climb on that rope in that location ....crazy. Here's the spot on that rope.

Yeah, but you're saving some money having some illiterates host it I'd imagine. [video:youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R8DKgxsVWhg

I mostly find it interesting that someone would sink so low for ratings, usually the flames get bigger after the Presidents been in office for a while and folks want something new, so this could get ugly in a few years as Obama is just starting. Anyway, this seems to be flying way below the publics radar for some strange reason, don't know if this is going to be a Don Imus, dude needs a new job thing....

I most highly recommend it. Plenty of more knowledgeable posters have better details above. My experience is way dated: I helped teach the Advanced climbing school for a couple of years like @ 1984-5 or 86 or somewhere in there. Now they have split that up to high angle snow and ice and Advanced rock I hear. I'm not a Mazama although I've climbed with plenty as recently as 2 weeks ago and bump into them all over creation here and there, sometimes the full classes even. From what I have seen, you can learn via hard knocks and hopefully survive that, maybe with the help of a good mentor or 3, or take some classes. These are the most through, cost effective classes I've ever seen anywhere around here for climbing, and I guided and ran trips for both Portland Parks and Portland State University that involved teaching for many years. I know someone who just finished the basic, which I would have steered him away from that into something like the intermediary or advanced as he's doing first ascents to 5.10b on his own time (follows in the 5.11 or so range), but he was happy he did it. I hear 95% good about the Mazamas teaching programs. They are through and high quality if even at times a bit slow and a time suck. Do it Will.

http://gearx.com/beal-edlinger-10-2mm-60m-std-rope.html $119.99 "Beal Edlinger 10.2mm 60M Std Rope Representing the perfect balance between durability and low weight, the Edlinger is sure to give you wings on your next project. With a 10.2 mm diameter, this cord travels smoothly over rock and through carabiners, providing a lightweight, easy-to-clip connection to the stone. So, if you're looking for a rope that's not too thin, yet not too heavy… the Edlinger is your ticket. Specs: Diameter: 10.2 mm Treatment: Standard Fall Rating: 8 Impact Force: 8 kN Weight: 65 g/m"

ya know it's true cause Glen Beck says so. I don't believe this myself, it's too stupid to be true and there is no evidence. http://www.mediabistro.com/tvnewser/fnc/glenn_beck_off_this_week_vacation_or_something_more_124727.asp However, Fox might not be able to take the heat so they appar to have given him a week off to think it over. LOL!!!! What a dick, not even close to as big of a dick as Michael Savage, but still....this might be a reason to start listening:-) Don't these people know that their shows are all about getting the advertisers money? Here's the quote... {Tipsters inside Fox News tell us Glenn Beck's vacation this week from his Fox News show was not planned. We hear Beck was told to take this week off to let some of the heat surrounding him die down. That heat began July 28 on "Fox & Friends" when Beck said he thought Pres. Obama has "a deep-seated hatred for white people," adding, "This guy is, I believe, a racist."........"

LOL Sorry dude, but given that this was suppose to be a child, if this is true (and we have yet to see it) that a childs scribblings were even remotely considered as a Native American graphic, then THIS IS NUMBER 1 BABY!!!! I think we all would support protecting any and all info we can about the earlier people who trod this area. However, what most of us see in these kinds of instances, is professional bloodsuckers living off the dole with these cushy Government jobs using their jobs to protect and expand their own importance and paychecks as they utilize the "find" to empire build. They do this by starting a conflict whereby a closure and then the ensuing mandatory public process guarantees that someone has to answer the outraged letters and letters of support. Someone has to have public meetings to discuss the new closure. Someone has to hire more folks to work the new conflict. It all makes me in particular so jaded.