billcoe

is too

I've probably been up Cooper Spur 15 or so times and never took screws like every one is saying, BUT, if I was planning on doing laps like you are all winter, I'd have at least 2 for those conditions where they'd be needed. Like Jan and Feb after an ice storm. The times that there is some verglass or ice they would be more than nice to have them. Besides that, you'll soon want to do the harder routes to the right over on the North Face anyway, and if you're a gear whore like me, getting a good deal is reason enough just buy a bunch anyway. If the conditions are just snow, I'd leave them at home, since it's winter you'll already have an insane load of crap and probably skiing far in deep snow. I like climbing it with a longer ice axe so I can get it down in the snow deeply when the snow is all fluffy like. You're wading through thigh deep fluffy snow, a little as is only of value to pick your nose or your ass. A long one will give you some leverage to get your ass up and out of deep snow, which you''ll be seeing a lot of. Since you sound like you'll be out all the time, watch for avalanches and stay to the left as much as possible, don't worry about getting to the summit, but focus on being in the now and the process. Taking a bag and sleeping overnight and in till light at tie in rock isn't a bad thing to do either if you think it's marginal. You'll wake up in a clear cold day, you can still scoot up, down and out and be in the car with plenty of time to spare - you'll have the Mt all to yourself most times. The other great spot to hang if you think upper conditions are teh suck to climb but you want a nice winter ski with a possible summit if it looks good later is the top of Barrett spur. Great place to hang. Take a camera! Have fun Guthrie!

Good times!

ROTFLMAO!!!!! I got permanent smile! Thanks Prole! latest: ""Does anyone your age know how to comb their fucking hair? It looks like two squirrels crawled on their head and started fucking."

huh? ie, I'll see your Huh and raise you a huh!) huh huh huh huh huh huh huh huh huh That was the sound Adam was making Saturday hiking out. If we could all change our inflections we'd have hah hah hah hah hah !! Much better. Right kev? Right!!

exactly!

Anyone have any wide pics for Plaidman of 5.7-5.10 valley stuff?

Given you posted a picture of your hand, and knowing that you're married now, if it involves pleasuring yourself again I'd rather talk about climbing. LOL!

Well, Scotts into hooks and besides isn't hooks wat some use when da offwidth is too hard? ..... just sayin'.... ps Pete H, Sacherer is thin, then hands then a offwidth then squeeze. The OW part didn't come out very clear. Same with Bride of Wyde, thin then hands, fists, OW then squeeze. Unless you're fat. Then ya lieback it some, maybe get a chickenwing in. pic of me liebacking some on it: 9" Valley Giant. I don't loan those out.

Some of them. I'm missing a #4 Vermin Hook, think I took it out to Beacon and it was reshuffled in one of those ledge scenes on it takes a village of 12 climbers to watch Ivan. Ivan, that was your lead off the ledge: do you have an extra large hook? If so, it's yours to keep since you (obviously) need it more than me, I just want to know. It's the 2nd from the large size. Verm quit, so these great hooks are impossible to obtain now.

I have more pictures of socks if you need Pete.. LOL! Share your pics of the valley. Must have been too gripped to take pics of Moby dick.

Something we used with good effect was to take a picture of the topo in the book, and if you needed to look at it at the belay stance, just turn on the camera in view mode and zoom as needed. Then delete it off your camera later.

Werner's socks went up the route under his rock shoes for protection. Me later on Knob Job: It had been years since I'd done this route, probably had EBs on the last time, and I remember it going up and right and as real stiff. So my buddies are all like "No, it's only 10b dude". When I got to the top and started up and right, they're like: "whoh dude, where are you going?" "That's something else, some runout 10d, go left and up and it's a 5.8 finish"....Ahhhhhhh haaa - love guidebooks and alert buddies. I don't see any pics of Moby Dick right, thats a good one too right there Scott.

Merry following Werner on Sacherer Cracker. here's a good one of the Upper part of Sacherer. Werner just getting to the business part. Good one for your Scott as its nice that you get real good pro before you get high up there and get your ass and forearms kicked on the wide part.

Last Sunday, didn't go climbing: too tired. However, did go try and spot a potential new cliff, and our little dog Sadie met a new buddy and got to share the new friends toy. ...for a while.

Another Werner pic, as a young dude on Death Crack.

Sorry - I didn't catch this, thought you were just f*king with Andrew. (I guess you were too LOL) John F is a great guy, solid climber but just a solid person too, anyone who knows him or gets out with him knows this. While we wait: here's some Vally stokage to get Scott warmed up. Oh, Will: on the 5.11 wyde stuff, Scott has to walk before he can run! Andrew Trzynka on Sacherer Cracker. Tape your ankles or were the old school socks/hightops combo for this one. Steve_Lyford and Stan_Miller up on Butterballs on the Cookie. Visting with Werner and Merry Braun. Stan Miller on Lower Cathedral Andrew on same with the awesome local Dave Hardin below taking a rest. In case we need any hook or beak pictures, fortunately the price tags were removed and all those Toucans have been used now. Easy local wide: FA of Dulcina Couple of FA of Bride of Wyde, local wide. Fish copied the forum post and made it a trip report PDF on Wide Fetish. Good site if you are so sick as to indulge in that wide stuff. You should run out and do Bride of Wyde as a warm up, In sequence, your pro is #4,5 6 and then an optional #4 Bro. Here's Werner's pic of a young John Bachar on Cream: Check out the swami and the pro, one more reason not to fall.

Tell it again?! Follow along and lets do the Homey the Clown song first. LOL! Ok, pull up a chair little childrens and Homeys got a story---> [video:youtube]

I knew this should have stayed in spray, KNEW IT!!!!! It's a shame.

LOL! She did my shoes once back in the day too Andrew. Did good work. Last year on the trip down while the boyz were up on the East Buttress of Middle I bumped into her at the store and said hi: she talked non-stop on what they were up to for at LEAST 2 hours. WOW! I kept trying to excuse myself but it just kept going on and on and on.... She's a great gal, but as much as she talks, Werner may be the perfect dude for her being hard of hearing and all.

Man, that's where my best work goes.....damnit. I have pics of Sacherer Cracker and Moby Dick when my legs were good trip, I'll go find it. edited so I can keep my inner asshole in check:-)

What makes for a "great bolt climb"?

Yowza!!! Get some! I spent 2 weeks as camp bitch in June when I'd trashed my legs and was unable to climb. I thought it would be difficult but I really enjoyed just being there with my bros. They liked my soup stuff.

...and spin the camera around a few times and shake it too....

Anyone having Voters remorse other than Kevbone?