Buckaroo

If you scramble the 4th class start (easier from the left) 2 60m's fix to the top of pitch 4. But pitch 4 is a 10a free pitch so your not really gaining anything by climbing it twice. only take 1 rope, a 60m will get you off without leaving gear, the lower pitches are < 30m between anchors and the long upper pitches have intermediate anchors. climb it in a day is good advice, go on/near the solstice, know the descent so you can do it in the dark, don't take too much stuff. I see people on this route with huge packs, not sure if that's the best way to do it. Take 1 set alpine ascenders, 1 set light aiders, split the aid stuff between the 2 climbers once you get above the aid. Don't fall for the decoy bolted belay on the left face above the rotten block, the route stays right in the dihedral and the belay is above the hard looking (easy) roof. The decoy belay is a rap anchor that goes to a bivy ledge they used when the route was being sieged.

carry 90 pound packs full of nitro-glycerine. Jump off cliffs and catch yourself on the edge with one tool Long time ago I had a wood ice training wall made of 2x8's with holes drilled to place ice screws. Now the only time I "train" is when I'm climbing.

The Russians use road flares. Bears fear the flame and the smoke "blinds" their primary sense which is smell. Plus it is pain free so it doesn't piss them off. Bear spray is sometimes ineffective and the smell attracts other bears to the area.

I've been on the Japanese route but didn't summit any pics of Mt. Alberta are interesting. The N face hasn't seen an ascent for several years, it rarely comes in condition. Even by the easiest (Japanese) route it will go for a year at a time without a summit. The mountain only got it's first winter ascent by any route in 2003.

Did you get any other shots of Mt.Alberta besides the N face? Looks like a lot of fresh snow up in Canada

The traverse is not that hidden if you are looking in the right place. Basic description of the start go up the 2-3 slab pitches on the ridge till you hit the vertical wall with the piton/sling anchor, take the stepped dihedral up and left to where it goes up a short slab/ramp and then steps left into a face/gulley. After you turn the corner left and are on the open rock face/gulley you go up about 100' where there is a 15-20' high steep chimney in the center of the face/gulley. Either climb the chimney or climb on the right side of it. At the top of the chimney go straight to the right, that's where the brushy traverse ledge starts. It ends at the bottom of the north face bowl.

how much does ur 40 yo salewa weigh? I'll support Jim, he supports CC

Sorry Ed , didnt see your post , we left tues night. Eric and I tagged outer space and condomorphine addiction, sweet.

davis holland lovin arms (have done it 4 times this summer). outer space orbit link up. prime rib on goat wall, whatever. PM me. have car and all gear

the World Wall at Exit 32 has several climbs that stay dry in the rain learn to hike with an umbrella in the rain, keeps you dryer than gore-tex

Banff is better in late February early March, longer days and milder temps, the ice is not as brittle. Jan has 6 hr days and if a cold front comes through it's -40F.

Buckshot is living in opposite world, the one portrayed by Faux news for the benefit of the intellectually challenged. the rich are getting richer and the dumb are getting dumber ""Its odd how the same people who hate the pharmaceutical industry also want free medicine from the government."" I wouldn't take that crap if you paid me. Pharmaceuticals kill more people than illicit drugs. ""Do we want big pharm companies inventing medicine for our government to give to us for free or not?"" actually a majority of research is paid for with tax dollars. Also the bush boy passed laws that say Medicare can't bargain with the Pharma companies. ""Or is it more of the "F#$k all corporations" mantra we hear?"" hearing on Faux news and reality are two different things. The reality is the corps are screwing the working class, worse than ever before in history. ""Will a democracy only last until the people realize they can vote themselves money out of the state treasury?"" No it only lasts until the bankers and CEO's buy the politicians and together rob the treasury which they are currently in the process of doing thanks to the bush boy and Obama.

nice shot, where's this taken from?

Your title is misleading, a cordelette is a 20' piece of cord for equalizing a belay anchor I wouldn't lead on anything as thin as you are talking unless it was fall rated, there's only so far you can push going light when it comes to lead ropes as far as devices, just add beaners either at the device clipin or on the side at the gear loop, or both. when you go real skinny for rapping you also have to go even smaller for prussik cord, like 4mm. also second DPS's suggestion

Screw the working class they don't need any representation they should just shut up and take whatever the upper 1/1000 of 1 percent oligarchy wants to give them after all the greatest economic disparity in the history of the world is what we have and what we need to continue.

Verizon has the best recption. They are ripoffs otberwise but hey

West ridge of Forbidden The Zipper on Lane Peak (winter) North Face of North Index Peak (summer) East Route, Main Index Peak Great Northern Slab, Index South Arete, South Early Winter Spire South Face, The Tooth West and NW Ridge Stuart Beckey Route, Liberty Bell North Ridge, Assiniboine Regular route, Eisenhower Tower N to S Traverse, Mt Colin East Ridge, Edith Cavell W Ridge, Pigeon Spire Davis-Holland Lovin-Arms (rope solo) Town Crier (rope solo) Professor Falls (ice)

Maxim Tech Cord. (also sold as BD Gemini) 5mm "Technora" is the strongest but it loses a lot of strength with knots and with repeated flexing, like going through a friction device. If you tie a knot that can't slip through the anchor then you rap on your lead rope as a single and just use the 5mm for retrieval. the Tech Cord is really stiff and acts like a cable and doesn't tangle very easily. you can add more friction with two beaners on your ATC or run through another beaner clipped to your gear loop There's also the Buggette that fits a 5mil line. I've done some climbs where I just needed a rap line to descend and used the 5mil Tech cord. 60M only weighs 3 lbs 4 oz.

No wonder they are having problems between the poor choice of material and poor manufacturing it's no wonder these things are a failure waiting to happen. I have another question, are these things made in China like their cams?

I think it depends on the objective and other factors like do you know the descent in the dark. That said I like to get a dawn start, no reason to sleep when it's light, especially when the dreary NW winter is around the corner with the too short days. You can sleep when your dead. Though it's sometimes hard to find a partner that thinks the same way.

This looks like a late summer pic. I went in the late spring, there was a lot more snow I went this way, the cliff bands were about 6' high where I crossed them at the top.

Load it on google earth, take a screen grab and post the jpg, you're probably not going to be able to tell though, photos of the route would be better. Basically I would go far right around the cliffs, when you do that they become shorter and there's no crevasses, just snowfields. Don't even climb them, go right a couple hundred yards below them. the height of the rockbands/cliffbands is shorter to the right There may be a summit bergshrund though.

Angle up and right long before you hit the cliff band. Go through the band at its narrowest point approx 150 to 200 meters from the cleaver.

Awesome climb, easily in the top ten of the most tenacious efforts on CC. Mito is a hardwoman! The Verizon cell phone gets reception above about 8,000' on Shuksan. I always take mine in the mountains, they are so light now anyway. I called the rangers for a weather report from the summit of Luna and that's significantly more remote than Shuksan.

Covert black ops. If I told ya I'd hav ta kill ya.