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About crampon_retread

  • Rank


  • Occupation
    Retired; i.e., can climb 24/7
  • Location
    Sequim, WA
  1. Success Cleaver route -- Which way to turn ?

    This helps. For no known reason I thought the route was to the left of the rockband. Yet when we got to the rockband, the left did not look promising and the wind pushed us to the right--up and to the top, as I wrote earlier. Next time I'll go right and avoid a number of problems. Thanks for sharing your experience and for taking time to write. Greg
  2. Success Cleaver route -- Which way to turn ?

    I think I get that I should angle right well before I get to the cliff band, perhaps what I referred to as a horizontal snow-ice-rock formation. But I don't understand what it means to go though the rock band at its narrowest point. I was up to and on top of the rock band (or horizontal snow-ice-rock formation) a couple weeks ago, and I went right above the couloirs and then up to the top of the rock band where we found crevasses. (And I was under the impression that the Success Cleaver route could be done without encounter crevasses.) I walked almost the full length of the top of the rock band, first to the left where it dropped down to a long (.5 mile or more) snow ramp to the summit and then to the right where crevasses stopped progress. If I understand correctly, I should go over, not around, the rock band. If so, it would seem that I would have to be prepared to deal with crevasses. Am I right about this? I'm trying to figure a way to send you a copy of the topo with waypoints that would show you where I was. Is there a way for me to send you a topo? Thanks for your help. Greg
  3. When you get above the top of the couloirs, you face a long horizontal snow-ice-rock formation that is, methinks, Point Success--and this is my question--does the climber go to the right or to the left of this horizontal formation for the normal, non-crevasse-crossing route to the summit? Thank you.
  4. Liberty Ridge

    Seasoned, experienced, and in good shape climber looking for climbing mate to do Liberty Ridge this spring or summer.
  5. Gannett Peak in July 2005

    Anyone interested in doing Wyoming's highest in July? Gannett Peak is considered the second most difficult, after Denali, of the states' highpoints. S'posed to be a beautiful climb. If interested, please PM me. Thanks, Greg
  6. Gannett Peak in July 2005

    Anyone interested in doing Wyoming's highest in July? After Denali, Gannett Peak is considered the second most difficult of the states' highpoints. S'posed to be a beautiful climb. If interested, please PM me. Thanks, Greg
  7. partner(s) needed...rock , alpine...whatever

    . . . please to check your p m
  8. Any info on Gib Ledges or Nisqually Icefall?

    Greetings Careless_Ev, Thanks for taking time to share firsthand observations about Gib Ledges and the Nisqually Glacier. I'll pass them along to my climbing partners. Best wishes for a good Holiday Season, Greg
  9. Please to tell current information regarding snow and route conditions for Gib Ledges and Nisqually Icefall. Thank you.
  10. Aconcagua in March '04 and/or Denali in June '04?

    Good information--thanks. So can you move up your schedule just a mite, say to 2004? With your knowledge of the mountain and my knowledge of Alaska--I lived there eighteen years, speak Alaskan, and can instantly convert currency--we'd make a good core for the team. Life is short, and not to be a grinch, but who knows what evil might befall you or even Denali before 2005. Please to think about it, and if you're interested, let's talk some more. Greg
  11. Aconcagua in March '04 and/or Denali in June '04?

    I agree, March is late. I'm now thinking early February would be better. Maybe earlier than early February would be better still? I'm open to other ideas. And as for which route, I'm looking at the Polish Glacier route primarily because it seems to promise more snow than the Normal route. But here again, I'm open. In fact, I'd like to do something other than a standard route if it is within my ability range. So far, one other climber has committed to the Aconcagua climb. He will graduate university sometime in December, and will be ready to do a tune-up climb then. Are you interested? If so, please drop me a note, and we can figure a way to communicate more directly. Greg
  12. Road to Mt. Constance STILL washed out

    During the winter of 1998/99, FS Road 2610 washed out during a rainstorm. Since that time, climbers who attempt Mt. Constance must add eight miles to what is already a demanding and difficult approach and climb. Additionally, the well-establilshed Elkhorn Campground located at the end of the Dosewallips Road (FS Rd 2610) is unavailable to those who wish to drive to this public facililty. In October 2003, the U.S. Department of Agriculture, Hood Canal Ranger District, published this statement: "It has been determined that Alternative D, which would reconstruct Forest Road 2610 in the original location with constructed log complexes to dissipate streamflow energy, would not be consistent with the Aquatic Conservation Strategy of the Northwest Forest Plan. . . . The Forest Service is currently reviewing plans to determine which of the remaining alternatives would best meet resource and public objectives." Alternative D would have involved rebuilding only the washed-out section of the road--some 300 foot in total. This solution would have been relatively inexpensive, quick, and environmentlly sensitive. Now the same group that opposed and--with the support of fish biologists from several federal agencies--stopped reconstruction of washed-out Forest Service Road 2610 is working to block all alternative plans to reconnect to the already-existing Dossewallips Road, the road that leads to the Mt. Constance jump-off and to the Elkhorn Campground. As already mentioned, the unrepaired road adds eight miles to the Mt. Constance climb. Although the official public comment period is closed, "unofficial" comments could be directed to either or both of Washington's U.S. senators, your U.S. representative, or to Mr. David W. Craig, District Ranger, Hood Canal Ranger District, P.O. Box 280, Quilcene, WA 98376.
  13. Uk climber looking for partners

    Greetings Andy, Sounds good. This weather, however, has complicated efforts to get out. Let's watch forecasts to determine when weather and snow conditions come together to allow a safe trip into the mountains. Talk with you later. Greg
  14. Uk climber looking for partners

    Greetings Andy, Hope you were able to venture into the mountains before the rains began. Looks like poor weather for some time to come, yet--in defiance of the gloomy weather forecasts-- there may be sun breaks in the not-too-distant future. I cannot tell from your posting if you are an alpine climber. If so, perhaps you would be interested in doing mixed climbing on peaks (Tatoosh Range) located below Mt. Rainier? (Also, there is a remote chance for a day-trip on Mt. Rainier's Nisqually Glacier practicing crevasse-rescue techniques with a small group of climbers.) All of this is uncertain due to weather--November is typically western Washington's wettest time of year. But who knows? Are you equipped for and interested in a bit of alpine climbing?