Buckaroo

Look at NWAC at the off season avy conditions, large parts of the back bowl can slide off. the spires also have these isolated pockets of snow around the summits that melt and slide off, not huge but plenty big enough to wipe you off the climbs. Climbed Liberty Crack early one year (early June?) and heard a couple of large pockets coming off, then we did the Medussas' roof variation and had to cross one of the pockets, scary.

Dammit, I wanna do the Nose, maybe I'll just quit work...

SWEEEET! I rope soloed this a dozen years ago, back when the bolt ladder was original Becky stuff. It had these home-made aluminum hangers with 1/8" bolts, it added some spice to the route. I've heard the 4th pitch no longer has a bunch of fixed pins? It used to be a ladder of pins, too easy. I know just where you fell from, there's 2 variations, you must have took the harder one. I totally agree with you, aid is a great skill builder. You concentrate on gear placements and are doing many of them in a short period of time, with safe fall potential. You learn much quicker than you would placing while free-climbing. You also learn exactly what will hold and what wont. Where was the climber climbing that had to be choppered off?

Not sure you want to be climbing on the south facing valley routes (Nose) in June July, pretty hot. The Valley is the easiest place to hook up with strangers. I climbed 76 pitches in 6 days, different person every day.

PNW ice in May, YEEEEEE HAAAAA!!! way to teamwork, with 3 on 1 rope

I would wait a week, avy is too high. couple years back a lot of big trees were taken out.

He's still around but no longer climbs. He broke his back on the job as a high rise window cleaner. Coach is okay once you get to know him.

I know a route setter that swears by a straight shaft Black Prophet hammer as the best route cleaning tool. Needless to say the pick is blunted. I also cringe just to think about it.

""More power to you if your a badass. But it's the south side of hood not some super hard route. "" this statement is self contradictory. the top of the lift is only about an hour. It's 4 to 5 hours to the summit. If you need to ride a snow cat you aren't a climber

Sorry u mistake intelligence for kookery. Did I strike a nerve? R U growing some McDees back titties there KKK?

"especially when combined with inactivity" I never have that problem. Bleached is still worse.

unbleached still has nutrition after the oven, bleached does not. Look at the people that eat McD's exclusively, bleached pasty as@ bit*hes, twig arms and back tit*ies

Traditional white bread has bleached flour. It is DEAD food. If it can even be called food. dunk anything living in chlorine bleach and it dies. You might as well eat cardboard, it has as much nutritional content. You need to browse a good health food store. Madison Market, on Madison by the radio towers. Trader Joes is next door. Or Whole Foods, 4 locations in the area. There is such a thing as white bread made with unbleached flour. But when you talk wonder bread, that's bleached. There's even whole wheat bread with bleached flour, same dead crap. You have to read labels. It needs to say "unbleached flour", because when it's bleached it doesn't always say so. whole wheat isn't necessarily the best for you, some people don't need the gluten. I don't think the criteria should be white or whole wheat, it should be bleached or unbleached when it comes to nutritional value. The best breads are the ones unsealed in a paper bag, you know they are fresh from that morning. There's something about the unsealed bag that makes them a lot better tasting. Nothing better than some artisan bread toasted with olive oil, mmmmmmmmmmmhhh. nom nom nom. You haven't eaten bread until you've tried some of this.

There is a recent thread discussing this topic here>>>> http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1064848/1

If you have callouses already from your profession you can get by without taping. If you have big hands then tape just makes them bigger and thin hands cracks will be hard. I've also seen people that just climb cracks all the time build up callouses. If you don't have callouses the pain will make it hard to stay in a steep crack and you'll need to tape. There's also spider mitts, which are a C4 rubber pad back of the hand glove type of thing if you don't want to mess with tape. This also has the problem of making the hand bigger, which is sometimes a benefit if you have small hands.

So was one person on the team the dedicated videographer? How many cameras and what kind of cameras? What kind of video editing software?

Jeez, make a suggestion, try to raise awareness, point out ways to offset if you feel the need to do something like this. Stop calling it hate, that's not what it is, it's love of the planet. Americans are at the pinnacle of consumption, if everyone on the planet was here the earth would be a cinder tomorrow.

Hey, I'm not hatin. (probably jealous ) I like to play with sport bikes and fast cars. I also donate to environmental charities. I'm just saying don't kid yourself about heli's. Not a demand, just a suggestion. It's an awesome climb and an artistic vid. I especially like the shot with the spindrift snow coming off into the light.

If the 737 to Petersberg is pretty full that's not that bad, although it's not insignificant. Boat's are just as bad as planes, neither have pollution control. Unless it's a sailboat of course. The helicopter is what's bad. About 1 to 2 mpg and no pollution control. A helicopter flying 1 mile puts out as much pollution as a Prius does in 1000 miles. I recommend a donation to an environmental charity to offset the damage. There are some good ones here in the PNW, where you might even benefit from the land they buy and set aside for preservation. The climbers you list are at the top of the game. Most everyone else has lesser objectives where a heli is just not necessary. Nice climb and vid anyway.

Is the rope a "super dry"? IOW was it dry treated before being woven? I would say that if it's a super dry and pretty new you could get by with washing it with rope soap. The sooner the better. Used motor oil gets acetic if it's not changed on schedule. If you know for certain the change interval was correct you are probably okay. If the oil was run in the car for 10,000 miles it's probably pretty acetic. Depends if it soaks through the dry treatment, or worse yet dissolves it. Wash it and then see if you can tell where the motor oil was. If you can't then your probably ok. If you can that means it's soaked through the dry treatment and it's probably sketchy. Ropes have a large margin of strength, usually ropes only break when cut over a sharp edge. Of something extreme like Dan Osman jumping off cliffs. Steve Nagode at the REI testing center in Sumner will test things like this, if he's still working there.

We hiked up to the base of the upper wall today. DHLA was wet on the first pitch. I think if the 1st pitch is wet the 4th pitch will certainly be wet. It has been raining the last 3 days, I think you need a couple days for it to dry out. When I rope soloed it the first pitch was relatively dry and I got past the 3rd pitch crux and thought it was in the bag. The 4th pitch was wet and slimy inside the crack, kicked my as*.

the upper 3 pitches are better than the 3rd pitch. a sustained hand fist crack to a stem chimney. An intricate and technical face/crack pitch that starts with a descending traverse. A dead vertical 5.9 face/crack pitch at the last with unusual rock features

Davis Holland Lovin Arms, every pitch is a classic. The only thing better at the LTW is Godzilla, Sloe Children, Thin Fingers, and maybe Zoom. If you want to add easy free solo in there you have to include GNS, at least to the 2nd anchor.

I 2nd the Outer Space to Orbit linkup, crack heaven

I have some 1/2 draws that I use for cams, just a single beaner and a 1/4 length spectra sling. the only thing I don't like about the Dragons is the individual lobes are narrower than a C4, so less contact patch, that and the clip length is longer so when you're aiding you don't get as much distance from each piece. Saving 1 beaner per placement is a weight advantage though and the DMM wallnuts are the best ever made. They set easily and securely and clean just as easy.