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Buckaroo

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Everything posted by Buckaroo

  1. The end result is it weighs about 50% more than advertised. Regardless of how that came about accidental or intentional it doesn't look good. When I buy a product the very first consideration is weight. I returned the pack to REI and bought their new Flash mini pack. I'll wear it on my back and switch to the harness when it gets steep. BTW it weighs EXACTLY as advertised...10ozs. I don't think there's much of an excuse for inaccurate weight after all accurate scales are readily and easily available.
  2. Agree that Rainier is harder due to added 2000' elevation, the last 1000' will really kick your a**. don't agree so much about crevasses. There are large and deadly crevasses on Hood and Adams, and there are routes on Rainier that totally avoid crevasses. Although in general there are more crevasses on Rainier.
  3. anyone interested? 6 pitches, easy walk off, lots of 5.10a, There's one 10c crux that's like 2 moves. I can lead the hard pitches or swing leads whatever. Climbed it twice so know the beta.
  4. It is what it is I guess. Comparing it to their other offerings it is lighter. Guessing the main thing that pisses me off is the misrepresentation of the weight. Ray Jardine needs to try his hand at a lumbar pack. I'm a long time fan of the GoLite line.
  5. Unless I can mod it to take some weight off it's going back. I've been clipping stuff to my harness up till now, that weighs nothing.
  6. Go to REI and look at a Mountainsmith "Daylight" waist pack. The tag says it weighs 9.5 oz. with a 700 cu in capacity. It's a pretty nice looking pack with neat features and I've been wanting one for multipitch rock to get the weight of approach shoes/raingear/water off the shoulders on the vertical terrain. I ask the floor person if they have a scale because you can't always trust the advertised weight. No they don't, oh well. So I'm comparing it to the other waist packs and it seems a bit lighter than the rest of comparable size. So I buy it and take it home. DAMN THING WEIGHS 14 OUNCES!! Crap, I have a Go-lite Breeze daypack 2900 cu in capacity and it only weighs 14.5oz. This is a bad joke, not only does this thing weigh about twice what it needs to, they also are fibbing about how much it really weighs. Not to mention the tag shows a removable inner zipper pocket, get the thing home and check it. IT'S NOT REMOVABLE. HEY MOUNTAINSMITH if you're reading this....... FAIL. http://www.mountainsmith.com/products.asp?productId=309&categoryId=42&subCategoryId=0&subCategory2Id=0
  7. Quick search of the Gallery using "colchuck"
  8. Hey, Darwin Award candidate rope swinger. Feel free to join the other Darwin Award winners. Just don't try to drag innocent climbers with you. Please take your rope swinging bolts and GTHO of climbing areas.
  9. Drederek is engaging in hyperbole to make a point. Climbers aren't unknowingly jeopardizing other individuals like these rope swingers are. Joseph makes an even better point. Climbing gear is not made for swinging. There are no set guidelines for the practice either like there is with climbing. Take this joyriding crap somewhere else away from climbing areas. The sport is dangerous enough already even when you play within the guidelines. Take it to a bridge somewhere, but you may find it's illegal and there's probably a reason for that. Just ask Dan Osman, he may be able to tell you why. Kudos to the people that chopped the bolts.
  10. This Sunday, 7-16. There's a 5.8, two 5.9's, three 5.10a's, and multiple harder stuff that stay dry even when it's raining. Need a partner... trying to tag Aborigine.
  11. What a nice bunch of photos on this thread, it's going to be hard to judge them all. ALPINE. Early morning, looking down to the giant bivy ledge on the NE Buttress of Slesse SCENIC. August sunset on North Twin taken from the 10K bivy on the Japanese route on Mt. Alberta, Canada ICE. Heading up the first pitch of the upper tier of Drury Falls, Leavenworth CRAGGING. Looking down from 2/3 height on Moon Goddess Arete, Temple Crag, Palisades, the CA Sierras. The tent is there in the drainage below the band of trees. HUMOR. They don't call them hardmen for nothing. Grand Sentinel at Lake Louise, Canada
  12. I wouldn't climb on small patches of steep snow in these conditions. They tend to spontaneously sluff off from the melting. Was climbing Liberty Crack one time and heard/saw one come off the summit area, then we had to climb past one on the last pitch.
  13. SWEET!! Which route did you do and do you have any more pics?
  14. Made in China, probably cost BD $3.00
  15. Most of Black Diamond's stuff including Camalots are made in China
  16. Where can you get one of those shirts?
  17. Headlamps have come a long way in 15 years.
  18. I saw one also in 2008, on the SE side of J-Berg, about 100 yds away, luckily I was down wind from him. I already had my bivy laid out. I grabbed everything and hi-tailed it up to the col. I've been carrying road flares. It's what the Russian do because there's hella bears in Russia. A bear's primary sense is smell and the flare smoke inundates their olfactory making them effectively "blind" and they run. They also have an instinctual fear of fire. Plus it doesn't piss them off like bear spray does, and it's much more economical.
  19. It's certainly possible but would probably be prohibitively expensive if it was light weight. I can imagine it could be shock proof given the existence of things like black boxes on airplanes, they have electronics and are quite shock proof.
  20. I suppose if anyone was really worried about personal attacks they would have to take down about 1/2 the forum
  21. that's beside the point In that case my criticism of you on identity is invalid the criticism of personal attacks obviously still stands
  22. I can see where a rookie or someone that hasn't climbed for a long time would see left draws as booty because they might think that someone bailed on the route and couldn't, for whatever reason, retrieve them. After all the practice is relatively new. This goes along with the fact I don't ever think I've seen a climber that was a thief, it just doesn't go hand in hand. The backpack is an invalid comparison. The conditions of a left backpack are obvious to any level of climber, the left draws are not. I also see a lot of personal attacks against Raindawg on these boards when he's only stating a personal opinion. And as far as lower forms of human life, to me that's those people that intentionally expose a person's private identity on a public board, merely because they don't agree with someone's personal opinion. That's right down there with rat and thief. I think leaving draws is lazy but probably excusable if it's on really steep ground. In which case they should be made permanent with screwlinks. Leaving draws on the 5.10 part of a route is a different matter. Now what are you saying? It's obvious that it's an easy clip so the question arises, why are they left? No climber can deny that "booty" is an appealing concept, it probably just clouded some rookie's reason. The rookie is at fault for not being educated, which is excusable. The pink point climber is at fault for assuming everyone knows the 5.13 climber's methods, and for being lazy, not cleaning the easy part of the route, and not using screwlinks. What is the specific history of this practice? IIRC it started with just a couple of draws on the impossible clips of a very hard route, and they were usually screwlinked. It's morphed into all the draws on a hard route. So now it's all the draws on a route even if part of it's 5.10? and no screwlinks? So what is the cutoff rating where it's "ok" to leave gear? is it 5.12, 5.13? Some overhanging 5.11's are just as hard to clean. Does that mean 5.12 climbers are allowed to be lazy but 5.11 climbers aren't? Is this cutoff rating written somewhere in a guide or instructional book? Assuming this number can't even be pinned down by the experts, how do you expect the rookies to know? TLDR, it's a gray area in question.
  23. I climbed it years ago while doing the Ptarmigan Traverse. The rock is total choss. Good mental exercise, we did a very long traverse to get to the true summit which is probably achieved directly by one of the snow gullies.
  24. Buckaroo

    Gu

    Orange flavor was never good, but I doubt the expire date really affects the creamy Gu-ness, like E Coast Btard sez it would swell up if it was bad.
  25. Buckaroo

    Gu

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