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Buckaroo

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Everything posted by Buckaroo

  1. Why would you want it removed? Something to hide? If you are going to truly resolve this issue you would want this thread to stay here as proof that you are honest. Before you destroy the rope you have to prove that it's 52M and that it has damage. Otherwise you are just destroying a rope that you don't want to pay for.
  2. He can't show you vid of him burning the rope, he already sold it to someone else! For the environments sake though, I wouldn't want to burn it, cut it up and put it in the recycle.
  3. This Mirk's is a gear merchant. He's been on here a year and all his posts are in the Yard Sale. Zero about anything climbing. His very first post he misrepresents himself claiming to be here as a climber, he wants to double his rack and is asking for 6 different brands of cams. Who racks with 6 different brand cams? Now after posting gear pics all over the web it's suddenly inconvenient to post pics of this supposed bad rope. Now when someone is offered to drop by and check the rope it's suddenly inconvenient, he'll drop it at the Gunks later this summer. LOLZ!!!
  4. First of all, Rainier, even by the walk ups is not a "hike" it's a climb. Food intake depends on what kind of shape you are in and your age. If you have excess conditioning and are acclimatized you can get by with whatever. If you have marginal conditioning for this climb you should really pay attention to what you eat especially on summit day. Rainier is pretty hard in the normal 2 day push, it's easily compared to a 24 mile marathon. Ask any marathoner and they will tell you they race on an empty stomach, and they use power gels. Power gels are essentially pre-digested. They require very little energy expended on digesting them. This is especially important when you are near maximum aerobic capacity, which is what happens on the upper half of summit day in a two day push. When you eat something that's harder to digest, like peanuts, a lot of blood/energy has to go to your stomach/intestines, blood/energy that would be better utilized aerobically. Your body has reserves to last for 24 hours plus during exercise when it comes to most nutrition. The gels target just those things that can use immediate replacement. If you are in good shape eat whatever you want on the climb to high camp. Also try to eat something with fat in it for dinner. Yvonne Chounaird would down shots of olive oil. While it is true that some people can get away with eating whatever they want, even near the summit, they might find that their performance would be that much better if they tried the power gel system. If expense is an issue, which I understand with RocketParrot being a student, then just save the gels for only those peak events. Even more important than food intake is hydration, especially up high hydration takes precedence over calorie intake. Stay hydrated first, then worry about calories. I would avoid the Gels with caffeine on summit day. Caffeine is a diuretic which is the opposite of what you want at altitude. Again while some may get away with it, for most it will have a detrimental affect. I've actually switched from the gel to the energy blocks, which are exactly the same thing just in a gummy bear consistency. They are much easier to deal with than the sticky messy gels.
  5. Looks like Mirk's is not a climber. Climbers aren't dirtbags who rip people off. Mirk's has only posted in the Yard Sale section, nowhere else. He's probably an Ebay hound buying stuff for cheap and reselling at profit. Mirk's should be banned from CC and you should post notices on the other climbing boards if he doesn't do what's right. From the pics the rope looks to be in good shape. You can see the ends and count the loops in the lap coil. You should be able to tell approx length just from these pics. If you had a comparison pic of another lap coiled 9.8mm 60m it should be obvious.
  6. Who said beginner? I would classify Sunset Ridge as intermediate and Success Cleaver as beginner/intermediate.
  7. He didn't qualify which routes, he made a general statement that is problematic. The key difference is not crevasse hazard, and there are 2 ways to ascend Rainier without crevasse hazard, Success cleaver as you mentioned and Sunset Ridge. I think people should be ready for crevasse hazard on any of the 10k+ volcanoes. Success cleaver is probably a beginner/intermediate climb, I soloed it during my first year as a climber. Don't let the problems you mention put you off Rainier, there's 30+ routes and only 2 or 3 of them are crowded. Success is a fun one and very seldom traveled.
  8. So thats why those hikers I bought at REI didnt stick on wet rock worth a crap.
  9. Rocketparrotlet and I tagged it today, got baked by the sun, thank God the walk off is in the forest. TR when I find time
  10. Buckaroo

    Damn

    that's not Amy... and it does say "art of trolling" at the bottom.
  11. Buckaroo

    Damn

    Amy was da bomb, RIP babe. [video:youtube]
  12. I've done this before especially when it's steep. Weight is better carried at the waist, at the shoulders it pulls you over backwards. This is a relatively small amount of stuff, approach shoes, rain shells and water basically. It seems the light weight ethic hasn't entered the lumbar pack arena yet. There isn't anything comparable to the GoLite line of regular packs.
  13. The end result is it weighs about 50% more than advertised. Regardless of how that came about accidental or intentional it doesn't look good. When I buy a product the very first consideration is weight. I returned the pack to REI and bought their new Flash mini pack. I'll wear it on my back and switch to the harness when it gets steep. BTW it weighs EXACTLY as advertised...10ozs. I don't think there's much of an excuse for inaccurate weight after all accurate scales are readily and easily available.
  14. Agree that Rainier is harder due to added 2000' elevation, the last 1000' will really kick your a**. don't agree so much about crevasses. There are large and deadly crevasses on Hood and Adams, and there are routes on Rainier that totally avoid crevasses. Although in general there are more crevasses on Rainier.
  15. anyone interested? 6 pitches, easy walk off, lots of 5.10a, There's one 10c crux that's like 2 moves. I can lead the hard pitches or swing leads whatever. Climbed it twice so know the beta.
  16. It is what it is I guess. Comparing it to their other offerings it is lighter. Guessing the main thing that pisses me off is the misrepresentation of the weight. Ray Jardine needs to try his hand at a lumbar pack. I'm a long time fan of the GoLite line.
  17. Unless I can mod it to take some weight off it's going back. I've been clipping stuff to my harness up till now, that weighs nothing.
  18. Go to REI and look at a Mountainsmith "Daylight" waist pack. The tag says it weighs 9.5 oz. with a 700 cu in capacity. It's a pretty nice looking pack with neat features and I've been wanting one for multipitch rock to get the weight of approach shoes/raingear/water off the shoulders on the vertical terrain. I ask the floor person if they have a scale because you can't always trust the advertised weight. No they don't, oh well. So I'm comparing it to the other waist packs and it seems a bit lighter than the rest of comparable size. So I buy it and take it home. DAMN THING WEIGHS 14 OUNCES!! Crap, I have a Go-lite Breeze daypack 2900 cu in capacity and it only weighs 14.5oz. This is a bad joke, not only does this thing weigh about twice what it needs to, they also are fibbing about how much it really weighs. Not to mention the tag shows a removable inner zipper pocket, get the thing home and check it. IT'S NOT REMOVABLE. HEY MOUNTAINSMITH if you're reading this....... FAIL. http://www.mountainsmith.com/products.asp?productId=309&categoryId=42&subCategoryId=0&subCategory2Id=0
  19. Quick search of the Gallery using "colchuck"
  20. Hey, Darwin Award candidate rope swinger. Feel free to join the other Darwin Award winners. Just don't try to drag innocent climbers with you. Please take your rope swinging bolts and GTHO of climbing areas.
  21. Drederek is engaging in hyperbole to make a point. Climbers aren't unknowingly jeopardizing other individuals like these rope swingers are. Joseph makes an even better point. Climbing gear is not made for swinging. There are no set guidelines for the practice either like there is with climbing. Take this joyriding crap somewhere else away from climbing areas. The sport is dangerous enough already even when you play within the guidelines. Take it to a bridge somewhere, but you may find it's illegal and there's probably a reason for that. Just ask Dan Osman, he may be able to tell you why. Kudos to the people that chopped the bolts.
  22. This Sunday, 7-16. There's a 5.8, two 5.9's, three 5.10a's, and multiple harder stuff that stay dry even when it's raining. Need a partner... trying to tag Aborigine.
  23. What a nice bunch of photos on this thread, it's going to be hard to judge them all. ALPINE. Early morning, looking down to the giant bivy ledge on the NE Buttress of Slesse SCENIC. August sunset on North Twin taken from the 10K bivy on the Japanese route on Mt. Alberta, Canada ICE. Heading up the first pitch of the upper tier of Drury Falls, Leavenworth CRAGGING. Looking down from 2/3 height on Moon Goddess Arete, Temple Crag, Palisades, the CA Sierras. The tent is there in the drainage below the band of trees. HUMOR. They don't call them hardmen for nothing. Grand Sentinel at Lake Louise, Canada
  24. I wouldn't climb on small patches of steep snow in these conditions. They tend to spontaneously sluff off from the melting. Was climbing Liberty Crack one time and heard/saw one come off the summit area, then we had to climb past one on the last pitch.
  25. SWEET!! Which route did you do and do you have any more pics?
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