Buckaroo

There's a lot of things I will give a pass on there's a few things I will not. This descent has about the most comprehensive and descriptive beta in existence, seriously, if you can't figure it out, you shouldn't be anywhere near this peak.

""you may be missing the essential truth of Wilderness? that you are nothing?"" and the person that spray paints the wilderness is less than nothing That's it, you got me pissed off now. Good excuse to go up there and clean that sh*t off.

That's art work Ivan, not pathetic gumby weakness. The prime jewel of the 50 classics in this area, now some pathetic weaka*s gumby has decided to chop it down to his kindergarten level. We don't don't need to learn basic routefinding. We can do the biggest climb around and spray paint the sh*t out of it so our helpless pathetic uneducated inexperienced weak a*s butts don't get in trouble.

What? Protecting gumbies from getting lost? shouldn't be there in the first place. stay close to home if you can't figure out how to keep from getting lost. take a gps, set up cairns, go with someone that won't get lost, go with someone that's done it before. ANYTHING BUT SPRAY PAINTING THE WILDERNESS.

The line is drawn WAY before spray painting on the rock in the alpine wilderness. Someone's crossed the line and needs to be straightened out.

What up whit dat? Who's the da*n stupid a*s gumby spray painting directions in the wilderness? If I find out who you are I'm going to beat the crap out of you, then I'm going to beat it back in. (metaphorically speaking) this is where I first heard about it http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1069731#Post1069731 Dru if you're reading this you need to knock some heads up there in Canukistan

SWEET!!! AWESOME!!! WAY TO TAG!!! I own the Slesse page on SummitPost do you mind if I link to this TR? tell me more about the spray painting, that stuff needs to be stopped.

-1 on the hexes, I've never used them and no one I've climbed with uses them. The last time I took tri-cams was on the Salathe and didn't place them even once. Dust collectors. Cams are faster, work in more possible placements, and are usually more secure You have more than enough rock pro for any route on Rainier or Shasta Depending on the route on the volcanoes what you really need is an alpine axe that you can plunge the shaft. Also you might consider a leash that tethers at the head of the axe, again for plunging. the link cams are known for breaking. I've seen 3 of them broken at local shops I would look at Ti pins. Especially on routes where you only think you might need pins. If you are going to do more technical rock the next thing you need is some smaller narrower cams, like the Metoleus

Does anyone know the list of peaks climbed by the original Ptarmigans? It was an impressive list and I think it included Johannesburg east face.

Bivy sack. Coveralls aren't going to be warm enough. If you want to go super light use a 1/2 bag and use your puffy on top.

It's Access creek. Nelson gives a description in his first edition selected, for Luna Peak. I think Access has the least amount of bushwacking and shortest overall distance to get in to the North Pickets. Seem to remember you look for the talus on the south side of the valley as you go up. If you get buried in the brush you can't see where it ends on the south slope and you end up bushwack further than necessary. And watch out for the wild hornets that nest on the ground. They don't like it when you accidentally step on their nest. I had a 35 lbs pack with 8 days food/fuel and a skinny rap rope. I think if you shot for 40-45 lbs with climbing gear would be okay. It doesn't work in the brush but take an umbrella for the trail, works better than gore-tex. Since it takes so many days you can plan to have a rainy day on the trail and put your weather window on the climb. 1st day shoot for the cirque at the base of the E face of Luna (head of Access Creek) 2nd day I camped at the col on the south side of Luna but could have got over to the base of Fury on the 2nd day pretty easy. But Wayne is probably right, you want to go from Luna col to Luna col for the climb. search the TR's there's at least one of the Fury N Buttress, it's even been skied. I paid for a boat ride (30$?) to ease the first 5 miles of approach and on the way back hitched a ride on that section. Pretty easy in summer if someone is going that way, they always want to hear a climbing story. There was cell reception from the summit of Luna.

2, 3, 4, people, less is faster, more is safer 4 to 6 days 35 to 50 lbs light alpine rack 1 set cams to #2, 3/4 set nuts 60m 9.2 forget the name of the creek, it's the one that comes up E side of Luna

MY 1000'TH POST!

There's more dry routes at 32 than anywhere else on the west side, only at the world wall though. From 5.9 to 5.13, at least a dozen routes.

Prusik is not looking good for Wed Thur, supposed to be snowing. So Wed Thur the week after.

The new gri-gri is not near as smooth, especially on a 10.5 rope. Couple weeks back I was using a 9.4 with the new gri-gri, it works best with about that size. I was top roping solo and lowering off. I had just chalked my hands and got some chalk on the rope below the device. When I went to lower it got really bad. First it was locked up, then when I pulled the lever almost all the way back it suddenly slipped way down the rope. So I let off a little and it immediately locked up. It got better once I got past the chalked area and it cleaned out from the device but it still wasn't near as smooth as the 1st gen. the DMM is the bugette, for 5mil tech cord, sort of scary small. I think the OP was talking about auto-locking devices.

I like the Reversino here's the breakdown Reversino----- 2 oz.----- rope 7.5-8.2 Reverso 2----- 3 oz.----- rope 8 - 11 Reverso 3----- 2.75 oz.----- rope 7.5-11 Reverso 4----- 2 oz.----- rope 7.5-11 ATC guide (2nd gen)----- 3.1 oz----- rope 7.7-11 The new Reverso is the lightest the old Reversino and Reverso were specific to rope size but I think they are smoother. Especially with 10.5-11 ropes the old Reverso is better. 10.5 or larger is just not smooth in the new one. the Reverso 3 and 4 are the same device mechanically, the 4 is just lighter. All these devices work much better with a perfect round profile beaner like the Petzl Attache. If you have a problem it's probably because of the wrong beaner. This is especially true when belaying the follow on auto lock. on rappel or lead belay you can flip the old reversos around to alter friction amount. don't even get me started about the new gri-gri, do not like it.

Exit 32 World Wall, stays dry in the rain, 5.8 to 5.12 Prusik before permit season approach on Wed, climb and return on Thur I have ALL gear including extras and a gas sipper Prius

Actually, we're having some of the best spring weather we've had in quite a few years. Don't see any reason it shouldn't continue into early summer.

I have car, gas, and gear, Dreamer only if the road is open (Green Giant Buttress) I can lead all of Outer Space, all Dreamer, or 1/2 of D.H.L.A. I can usually lead all of D.H.L.A. but am still recovering strength from a broken arm (back in Feb.)

Look at NWAC at the off season avy conditions, large parts of the back bowl can slide off. the spires also have these isolated pockets of snow around the summits that melt and slide off, not huge but plenty big enough to wipe you off the climbs. Climbed Liberty Crack early one year (early June?) and heard a couple of large pockets coming off, then we did the Medussas' roof variation and had to cross one of the pockets, scary.

Dammit, I wanna do the Nose, maybe I'll just quit work...

SWEEEET! I rope soloed this a dozen years ago, back when the bolt ladder was original Becky stuff. It had these home-made aluminum hangers with 1/8" bolts, it added some spice to the route. I've heard the 4th pitch no longer has a bunch of fixed pins? It used to be a ladder of pins, too easy. I know just where you fell from, there's 2 variations, you must have took the harder one. I totally agree with you, aid is a great skill builder. You concentrate on gear placements and are doing many of them in a short period of time, with safe fall potential. You learn much quicker than you would placing while free-climbing. You also learn exactly what will hold and what wont. Where was the climber climbing that had to be choppered off?

Not sure you want to be climbing on the south facing valley routes (Nose) in June July, pretty hot. The Valley is the easiest place to hook up with strangers. I climbed 76 pitches in 6 days, different person every day.

PNW ice in May, YEEEEEE HAAAAA!!! way to teamwork, with 3 on 1 rope