Buckaroo

Made in China, probably cost BD $3.00

Most of Black Diamond's stuff including Camalots are made in China

Where can you get one of those shirts?

Headlamps have come a long way in 15 years.

I saw one also in 2008, on the SE side of J-Berg, about 100 yds away, luckily I was down wind from him. I already had my bivy laid out. I grabbed everything and hi-tailed it up to the col. I've been carrying road flares. It's what the Russian do because there's hella bears in Russia. A bear's primary sense is smell and the flare smoke inundates their olfactory making them effectively "blind" and they run. They also have an instinctual fear of fire. Plus it doesn't piss them off like bear spray does, and it's much more economical.

It's certainly possible but would probably be prohibitively expensive if it was light weight. I can imagine it could be shock proof given the existence of things like black boxes on airplanes, they have electronics and are quite shock proof.

I suppose if anyone was really worried about personal attacks they would have to take down about 1/2 the forum

that's beside the point In that case my criticism of you on identity is invalid the criticism of personal attacks obviously still stands

I can see where a rookie or someone that hasn't climbed for a long time would see left draws as booty because they might think that someone bailed on the route and couldn't, for whatever reason, retrieve them. After all the practice is relatively new. This goes along with the fact I don't ever think I've seen a climber that was a thief, it just doesn't go hand in hand. The backpack is an invalid comparison. The conditions of a left backpack are obvious to any level of climber, the left draws are not. I also see a lot of personal attacks against Raindawg on these boards when he's only stating a personal opinion. And as far as lower forms of human life, to me that's those people that intentionally expose a person's private identity on a public board, merely because they don't agree with someone's personal opinion. That's right down there with rat and thief. I think leaving draws is lazy but probably excusable if it's on really steep ground. In which case they should be made permanent with screwlinks. Leaving draws on the 5.10 part of a route is a different matter. Now what are you saying? It's obvious that it's an easy clip so the question arises, why are they left? No climber can deny that "booty" is an appealing concept, it probably just clouded some rookie's reason. The rookie is at fault for not being educated, which is excusable. The pink point climber is at fault for assuming everyone knows the 5.13 climber's methods, and for being lazy, not cleaning the easy part of the route, and not using screwlinks. What is the specific history of this practice? IIRC it started with just a couple of draws on the impossible clips of a very hard route, and they were usually screwlinked. It's morphed into all the draws on a hard route. So now it's all the draws on a route even if part of it's 5.10? and no screwlinks? So what is the cutoff rating where it's "ok" to leave gear? is it 5.12, 5.13? Some overhanging 5.11's are just as hard to clean. Does that mean 5.12 climbers are allowed to be lazy but 5.11 climbers aren't? Is this cutoff rating written somewhere in a guide or instructional book? Assuming this number can't even be pinned down by the experts, how do you expect the rookies to know? TLDR, it's a gray area in question.

I climbed it years ago while doing the Ptarmigan Traverse. The rock is total choss. Good mental exercise, we did a very long traverse to get to the true summit which is probably achieved directly by one of the snow gullies.

Orange flavor was never good, but I doubt the expire date really affects the creamy Gu-ness, like E Coast Btard sez it would swell up if it was bad.

So what do you believe then? Most of the ship on the Orwell TV? Or the corporate NYT? They spin the biggest conspiracy theories of them all.

Depends on the freezing level and also on how much snow. Probably don't need snowshoes but you might want points and an axe just in case.

Yeah, know what you mean J ail O perating as a B usiness

Is this what you're looking for? probably been placed about 20 times, I'm sure it has more wear just from carrying it on the rack. Never held a fall.

I really like the DMM wallnuts, another example of a very refined product.

whoa! that goat weighed approx 350 pounds, no wonder he got the better of the dude. I've seen lots of goats, but never anything close to that big.

Carabiner comparison http://www.supertopo.com/best/Carabiner-Review

Nothing but keylocks for me full set of Wild Country Helium wired keylocks. Everything on these, cams/nuts/draws. Nothing beats the performance, light weight, large opening, and keylock for smoothness. They broke new ground on their forging process. Every time you think something as simple as a carabiner is fully refined someone takes it up another notch. BD Positron keylock lockers, BD Vaporlocks for the belay device. Have a few Trango Superfly lockers, use them for the alpine only cuz they have such a small opening. thinking about getting a set of Metolius FS wiregates for the alpine because they are so light. all kinds of slings, Including Mammut and the Wild Country skinnys, they are a little thicker than the Mammut. Use a quad length skinny sling as a cordalet, it's not quite as long as a standard cordalet but because it's so skinny the knot uses less length so it evens out. When I aid at the crags have a full set of mixed beater beaners because of the abuse. For big wall like Yos I have a set of Petzl Spirits

I have an idea. take this jpg and load it as wallpaper on a friends phone while they're not looking.

Heads up. The meth heads are hitting the cars at the Index lower wall parking lot. Plenty of glass on the ground and while I was there these two shifty grungy looking guys were obviously casing the cars in broad daylight. So as soon as they left a local climber comes over and says look out, those are local meth heads. bummer, Index didn't used to be this way. Oh and a side note, finally climbed up to the ledge at the top of Godzilla, first time since the big block came down. After looking at the ledge I really don't think that block came down by itself. I think it was jacked, probably by climbers, probably by climbers jacked up on meth.

In order of preference Califa Colorado WA. I think WA has the best climbing with CA a close second, the only best climbing in CO is waterfall ice. That said there's still a lot of good climbing in CO. I did Blanca Peak in winter back when I lived in NM, really pretty area in the SW corner, a dry cold, -40F wasn't too bad. CO has the best weather followed closely by CA, and WA of course bringing up the rear.

If you're just going for a couple of weeks take a car. The parking is sometimes difficult but not impossible. the shuttle does not run to cookie cliff but there's always parking spots along the road Sept is the best time, it's cooled off a little and the crowds have died down a little because the kids are back in school. Why Upper Pines? The place to be if you're climbing is Camp 4. All the climbers are there, good place to get beta, a partner, or whatever related to climbing. WARNING, the black bears will break into your car if there's food inside OF ANY KIND. They will smell cookies in a factory sealed bag in the trunk. They will break out a side window or peel down the window frame, rip out the back seat and get the cookies out of the trunk. "No food" means no toothpaste etc or anything with a possible food scent. If you eat in your car it's wise to clean it out before departure. There's even known cases of headrests getting torn up if someone used overly scented shampoo. I distinctly remember dozing during the night and hearing the dooozzzeee of another window breaking. There's always glass in the parking lots, and the grown bears teach their cubs how to break into cars. Friend of mine was there for a couple months and got lazy or forgot and left a sandwich in his Toyota van. They peeled the window frame down and stole the sandwich. He had to drive 120 miles without a door to the wrecking yard.

The best is probably the Enchantments but it might not be described as "mellow" going up or down Aasgard pass. Everyone in the party would want to be athletic. But it's perfect for the 2-3 day range and you do a loop, go in and come out at different trailheads that are on the same road. The scenery can't be beat, although camping permits are very problematic. Something near Cascade pass, but it would be an out and back on the same trail in 2-3 days, and there's lots of bears that time of year. The Wonderland trail on Rainier, (just part of it) the North side is nice, start at Sunrise and go to Carbon River or Mowich Lake in 2-3 days. Lots of goats and close up with glaciers. Keep in mind this was an unusually high snow winter/spring, places that don't usually have snow may have snow crossings into the fall that you need to be prepared for. Or check before hand with the rangers if it's clear or not.