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Crackbolter

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Everything posted by Crackbolter

  1. Nice discussion guys. Nice to see such a great discussion. My only addition is that PTFE laminates do not have a permanant DWR on the fabric which over time means it is going to wear off and the fabric will wet out easily. This leaves you with a soaked down jacket which you must pack which can push the water into the jacket rendering the down matted out. At least with microfibers and encapsulated polyesters, the moisture can be wiped off before you pack it to eliminate this problem. Unfortunately for the PNW, it is tough to have just one jacket for everything. I own a light down vest for conditions closer to freezing and humid. This way, I can layer a waterproof shell over the down vest which does a pretty good job at keeping me warm and it also protects the vest from getting too wet. For colder conditions when I know I will need much more than a vest, a full on jacket or parka with an encapsulated polyester shell can't be beat. I still reccommend PTFE for 8000+ meter climbs. Only because the folks who are climbing these peaks can't really afford to ever get their down products wet. The weight is much, much greater but they will never have to worry about what happens if they are in a 5 day storm and their down bag gets wet. Nice to meet the infamous Lambone. Nice jacket!!!
  2. No but you need to come and get your metronome.
  3. I will try not to sell you on a F.F. bag but... #1, How long have laminates been used in the outdoor industry? 20 years + ? It is time to quit beating the dead horse. Stick with a bag that has encapusulated polyester microfiber or nylon microfiber. The fabric takes much longer to wet out and typically does a great job against condensation and perspiration and such. It is also pointless to use a bivy sack in combination with laminated fabric sleeping bag. Talk about zero breathability. Where does all of your perspiration go? Also, when the fabric on a laminate wets out, it takes either direct sunlight or pretty warm conditions to dry it out. Microfibers and encapsulated fabrics dry out as long as you wipe most of the moisture off of the bag. What is left will dry in no time. I have sent more than one person to Denali with the F.F. Snowgoose -40 bag with the Epic by Nextec fabric and the report was great. No need for a syl bag liner (VBL) and the down stayed lofty the whole time. Speaking of loft, laminates also decrease the loft of the bag because of how stiff the fabric seems to be. Somewhat pointless if you ask me. I always look at sleeping bags like a layering unit. You still need a shell for your sleeping bag just the same as you would for a fleece jacket. Either a tent or bivy bag. As far as the wren bags or Nunatuk's bag, I think they are great for what has been described but they aren't nearly as efficient as a regular mummy bag when it comes to keeping you warm at night. Too many openings mean too many cold spots. Just be sure to bring enough clothes to keep you plenty warm. This is just an opinion but this is what I do for $$$. If you have more questions, e-mail me at customerservice@featheredfrinds.com -T
  4. What program is that? That topo image is sweet!!! I need to get it so I can do that. It looks like you were able to position yourself anywhere in the map facing any direction and receive a realtime perspective. Is this true? Man would this kind of thing save me some time! Please help.
  5. Rodeo, Thanks for the cold one at Castle's Parking Lot on Saturday
  6. Ray- Your post had a good point. Nothing more.
  7. quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: I know a number of people that can climb 5.10+ in the mountains first try and some have done it on a new route. They don't seem to care about posting it on the internet... Some don't have computers... Is that the new "hardman" criteria these days. Seems like some low standards since some people were doing that 20 years ago. There is a lot more to climbing than new routes since beckey took most of the good lines here anyhow. My definition of a hardman is someone who can and has picked a few or many lines 5.10 of harder. Either that or at least had the aspiration to climb it free but ended up aiding it because it was unsafe or needed much cleaning. I think of the few who has lead bolted 5.10 or lead climbed on gear at 5.10. If you think this is nothing...go try it sometime. For those who have, thanks for being humble by saying it was nothing. It is something much more than you think. That is all I have to say for now. thanks for participating.
  8. It is hard to distinuish the B.S. from the truth from any one of you folks. I could ask if anyone has climbed an alpine trad route on-sight first ascent at 5.10+ and I coud be receiving some real skeptical beta. Who has REALLY climbed a ground-up (never top roped),on-sight, multipitch (more than 3 pitches?), gear belays (or maybe a couple of belay bolts),5.10+? Geez, my hat is off to you guys! I guess there is a need for a local hardman magazine. My point to Dru was overruled when he not only changed the rating of his on-sight F.A. from 5.10c to 5.10b, not that one letter grade matters. But also when he disclosed that he knows 20 percent of the P.N.W. climbing community. Sorry Dru but I try to pay close attention to detail when someone makes a claim to fame. [ 10-15-2002, 04:02 PM: Message edited by: Crackbolter ]
  9. There couldn't be 50 different people climbing 5.10 alpine routes. Where do get 50 from 8?
  10. I agree with you Dru. I know no one who goes ground up with full intentions of aiding a hard free line on a first ascent.If it looks like too much work, it's gettin rap bolted. Especially if it needs cleaning. Sorry Dru but there are plenty of 5.10 trad climbers in the PNW but not enough climbing them for the first time. If you are REALLY onsighting 5.10+ alpine trad routes, my hat is off to you. [ 10-15-2002, 11:19 AM: Message edited by: Crackbolter ]
  11. quote: Originally posted by jon: Well fuckena maybe we should start our own magazine? As soon as the NW community gets enough to write about, it will happen. When was the last time someone did something noble in the PNW? When will we see more than a handful of FA's or FFA's in a year? Who will be the next Peter Croft, Greg Child, Pete Doorish, Fred Beckey or Paul Boving? As of today, I know no one (Well maybe I do but no one flashing 5.10+ alpine first ascents.)
  12. Climbing Magazine sues Rock and Ice: http://www.outdoorbiz.com/outdoorretailer/search/article_display.jsp?vnu_content_id=1516090 [ 10-14-2002, 01:56 PM: Message edited by: Crackbolter ]
  13. quote: Originally posted by Lambone: is it at 7 or 8, whats the dealeo? Beers at 7 in the shop. Slides are at 8. So far I think Atomic rep, Dana rep, Petzl rep and a couple of other reps will be there.
  14. Come to the slideshow Ray.
  15. [ 10-13-2002, 06:00 PM: Message edited by: Crackbolter ]
  16. I am one who bolts cracks. Especially ones easily protected by knifeblades or #0 rp's.
  17. quote: Originally posted by greghinemeyer: i have to ask what does the good dr. of proctology listen to ? sHAKE THE sHACK!!! How about Bill Frizell? Bill Monroe? Miles Davis, Oscar Peterson, Ella Fitzgerald, Steely Dan, G.D., Tool, Marley, Grizman Quintet, Yonder Mountain String Band, Bob Dylan, Flatt and Scruggs, etc You know, your typical American POP
  18. quote: Originally posted by COL. Von Spanker: I wa glad I brought my down jacket. I see why they call them belay jackets. This is when you are supposed to say, "I was glad I brought my 800+ fill goose down Feathered Friends down jacket with Epic by Nextec shell fabric. Man, you guys gotta get one!!! I see why they call them belay jackets"
  19. quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: that is what I thought tony. You were just trolling for some fun with your buds. After your guys comments I hope both your racks get stolen next time you go climbing. Thanks Ray. We just thought it was funny that we were there when "someone" found your cam. I didn't reply previously because I thought that you were Uli Gaper and Gaper #1. Had you been friendly, I probably would have said something. Sorry.
  20. So does everyone else Ray. You are an asshole.
  21. quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: quote:Originally posted by HeadSpace: yeah, booty gear, like 00 metolius tcu's at the gates Nice troll Too bad he isn't the one who got it! (Neither did I)
  22. E) Crackbolter's bolted crack? [ 09-30-2002, 09:20 AM: Message edited by: Crackbolter ]
  23. Cleaning instructions for down bags, comforters and jackets. Down bags, comforters and jackets should be cleaned when they start to accumulate oils. If your bag has started to lose loft, or if the fabric is badly discolored, it is time for the bag to be washed. Body oils, hair oils, lotions and cosmetics all are acidic, and will slowly decompose down. The same goes for the cotton shells on down comforters. Oils also contaminate waterproof/breathable laminates, and heavy contamination seems to be a factor in delamination. The down in your sleeping was carefully processed to the correct oil/acid balance. We feel that either Thunder Down or Down Suds are the best soaps for restoring down to its optimum oil and acid level after use. It is essentially the same soap used by down processors with some added stain removers. Other down cleaning products on the market work fine, but cost much more per wash. Do not expect down suds to remove all the stains. You can spot treat stains soon after they occur with soap or cleaning solvent. After time, the stain bonds with the nylon and cannot be removed without causing damage to the down. You can use solvents to remove sap, tar, or concentrated oil and grease spots. Try to move the down away from the spot you are treating. Use an absorbent cloth on the reverse side, and use many small applications rather than flooding the area and spreading the stain. Waterproof/breathable laminates do not require different treatment than other fabrics, except that they make products harder to rinse and dry. Do not dry-clean your sleeping bag. Either wash the bag yourself by carefully following the detailed cleaning instructions, or have an experienced cleaner WASH your bag using a special down soap. Feathered Friends can wash your bag for you if there is no one in your area able to do the job properly. FEATHERED FRIENDS CLEANING SERVICE Abbreviated price list. Call 206-292-6292 or 206-292-2210 for details. Sleeping bags. $14-$22, based on weight. Goretex or Gore Dryloft or other PTFE 40% surcharge. Bags requiring a double wash $5 extra. Jackets vests, and parkas. $7 to $12 based on weight. Heavily soiled or requiring special spot cleaning $5 extra Down comforters. $15 to $35 based on weight and style. It is necessary to remove down from some styles before cleaning to prevent baffle damage. Unless this is necessary, cleaning costs normally do not exceed $25. Detailed cleaning instruction Spot clean when possible. You can use stronger detergents or solvents to spot clean, even with Waterproof/breathable fabrics. Move the down aside as much as possible before spot cleaning. Do not dry-clean. Dry-cleaning strips an excessive amount of oils from the down. In addition, dry-cleaning fluids remain in the bag for weeks. Breath tests can determine if someone has merely been inside a dry-cleaning shop weeks previously. We are sure you do not want to be zipped up inside a bag giving off carbon tetrachloride or perchlorethelene. And, this may surprise you, dry-cleaning usually does not even get the bag clean. The fluid is re-used many times. Exterior stains may be removed, but residue is left in the down. Dry-cleaning clogs pores in waterproof/breathable laminates. In many cases, machine washing is possible. With jackets, small comforters and lightweight down bags machine washing is no problem at all. Use a specialized down soap in any machine. Apply the soap directly to stained or heavily soiled areas. Soak for 15 to 60 minutes. Run through a normal cycle. Goretex/Dryloft items will have to be positioned nylon side out in order to spin properly. It is important to have the load balanced. For particularly soiled items, you may want to add more soap and run through another wash cycle before the rinsing starts. When it is finished, if you can still squeeze out suds, rinse the item again. For larger bags use a front loading machine, preferably a double or triple load commercial machine. Again, soak if possible. If not, plan on running through two complete cycles. Sleeping bags are tougher than you might expect. The tricot baffling we use is nearly as strong as the nylon shell. Problems in washing nearly always come from the shell catching in the machinery or seams raveling out. You should not have the latter problem with a Feathered Friends bag. To guard against snags monitor the wash closely. Hand washing is safest of all. In fact it would be difficult to damage a bag in hand washing. It does require considerable effort. Use a large tub or bathtub. Soak for up to an hour, but not longer. You will need to work at getting all the down submerged. The nylon is so tight it traps air. Rinsing is more difficult by hand. Multiple rinses with a small amount of water are better than one big rinse. You will need to squeeze out most of the water each time. Except with the largest bags and quilts, you can extract most of the remaining water with the spin cycle of a washing machine. In warm sunny weather you can dry the bag outdoors if you have room to spread it out. This will cause the least wear on the down and fabric. A final fluff cycle in a dryer will re-loft the down. Warning. Excessive sun drying can fade and weaken nylon. The sun drying option is given with the assumption that you are washing your bag infrequently. Tumble drying is a dryer will take hours. You need moderate heat. Most home dryers will not get too hot. Laundromat dryers often get hot enough to melt the nylon. Be sure to check, especially when the bag starts to fluff enough to fill the dryer. If the fabric or zipper is too hot to touch, you need to lower the temperature setting. Make sure the end bag is really dry and free of clumps before you store it. If down is left wet it support growth of bacteria or mildew. If you notice any off smell, wash the bag again immediately, and get it really dry. We have washed our rental bags 10 to 30 times, and the down seem no worse for it. Do not believe anyone who says that cleaning hurts the down. More.... DETAILED CLEANING INSTRUCTIONS Local Stains You can spot treat stains soon after they occur with soap or cleaning solvent. After time, stains will bond with the nylon and cannot be removed without causing damage to the down. You can use solvents to remove sap or tar. Try to move the down away from the spot you are treating. Use an absorbent cloth on the reverse side, and use many small applications rather than flooding the area and spreading the stain. DryLoft and Gore-Tex do not require different treatment than other fabrics. Dry-Cleaning Warning At the risk of repeating ourselves, DO NOT DRY-CLEAN! Dry-cleaning strips an excessive amount of oils from the down, and down will not fully recover its loft after even one trip through the dry-cleaners. In addition, dry-cleaning fluids remain in the bag for weeks; breath tests can determine if someone has merely been inside a dry-cleaning shop in the last week! We are sure you do not want to be zipped inside a bag giving off carbon tetrachloride or perchlorethelene. And worse, dry-cleaning usually does not even get the bag clean. Exterior stains may be removed, but residue is left in the down. Dry-cleaning clogs PTFE laminate pores and renders them non-breathable. Machine Washing With down jackets or the Rock Wren liner bag, machine washing at home is possible. Use Down Suds or Thunder Down in any machine. Use no bleach or fabric softeners. Apply the soap directly to stained or heavily soiled areas. Soak for 15 to 60 minutes, then run through a normal cycle on gentle, with cold water. PTFE-laminate items will have to be positioned nylon-side out in order to spin properly. It is important to have the load balanced. When it is finished, if you can squeeze out suds, rinse again. For larger bags, use a font loading machine, preferably a double or triple load commercial machine in a Laundromat. Again, soak if possible. Plan on running through two complete cycles, the second time without soap to thoroughly rinse all suds out of the bag. Hand Washing Hand Washing is the safest of all. It would be difficult to damage a bag in hand washing. However, it does require considerable time and effort. Use a large tub or bathtub. Soak for up to an hour, but not longer. You will have to work at getting all the down submerged, since the weave of our nylon is so tight that it traps air. Gently knead the bag from one end to the other, to ensure that all the down is thoroughly exposed to the soap. Rinse several times in cold water, then wring out all the excess water. Drying Once the bag is cleaned, it is time to dry it. Wring all excess water out of the bag. Use care when moving as soaked sleeping bag, as the down weighing against the baffles is at its heaviest. It is safe to put a PTFE-laminate bag into a large commercial dryer set on permanent press or air fluff. The danger is too much heat. If you feel the shell is getting hot, either select a lower temperature or air dry the bag. During washing, the down will collect in clumps. Periodically during the drying process (at the end of each drying cycle or every few hours if air drying) it is important to go through the entire bag and pull apart these down clumps, distributing the down more or less evenly through the bag. This only takes a few seconds, and will ensure that the down dries quickly and evenly. Feathered Friends sleeping bags are tougher than you might expect. The tricot baffling we use is nearly as strong as the nylon shell; and we use stronger but more time consuming tuck-stitch construction. Problems in washing nearly always come from the shell catching in the machinery or seams raveling out. You should not have the latter problem with a Feathered Friends bag. To guard against snags, monitor the wash closely. Washing a sleeping bag is a somewhat time-consuming, though not particularly difficult process. It is the most important element in bag longevity. With regular washing, you can expect many years of service from your Feathered Friends sleeping bag. That is all I have in my files. CB-
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