Crackbolter

This is an epic.

You can rappel Outer Space without using the Edge of Space anchors. A few years back a partner and I did the route in late March. Probably similar to conditions to now. The exception was that the descent gully was filled with snow and we only had rock shoes. We just decided to deal with the snow and wet feet as we headed up. When we were at the top we ran into a guide. Rather than downclimbing the gully in snow we partnered up with the guide and his client and negotiated a double rope rappel off the face. The first was off a tree on the top of the wall. The second was off a slung horn on library ledge and the fourth was off the last ledge around the tree after the easy 5th. I can't remember where we did the third rappel from. Bottom line, if you want to rap the wall bring two ropes. It is way faster and easier to hike the gully though.

Just hang on to it so I can borrow it from you if I ever need to. Didn't you know that you joined the climbers co-op when you bought that cam? I'vd got a threaded 2X4 if you need pro for a 36" offwidth. Wanna trade?

...when your forearms burn from the overhangs. ...when it feels like summer in March and it is raining everywhere else in the whole state. ...when Jim and Lucky find another route to trundle and toprope. ...when the route to the right of the one you just lead needs trundling and could go at 5.11 on toprope. ...when all of the beers you brought are empty and walking back to the car is more like stumbling back to the car. ...when you didn't have to have a yelling match with Bill. ...when your partner hasn't had his fill of 5.11 crack climbing and you get to toprope his testpeice. ...when you start to see more tanktops than down jackets. ...when only half the routes you climbed had stones falling on the belayer. Last but not least, ....when you haven't seen Jim, Marlene, Leiland, or Mike since the last time you went to Vantage 2 years ago. Good Times.

Nice report. Helping someone move was way more fun though. Just kidding. Next time, I am coming with. You even offered to pay for the gas.

Nice westslope cutthroat in the lake too. Nice gear cache spot for the enchantments.

Tim or Jon, Please make this a permanant post. Fred Beckey will be doing a couple of slideshows soon. Tickets will be selling fast so you might want to buy them ASAP. See y'all there! Here is the URL for the Seattle Slideshow : Fred_Beckey Seattle Slideshow Here is the URL for the Everett Slideshow: Fred_Beckey Everett Slideshow

Here is my trip report: Sorry for being such a wanker friends. Go figure after skiing Park City, Deer Valley and the ridge behind chair 9990 at The Canyons in the backcountry it snowed 13" Saturday night and 22" last night after coming home. The skiing sucked except for the fresh snow in the B.C. Watched the Freeskiing World Championships at Deer Valley on Saturday and skiied man made corn. Drank shitty 3.2% alcahol content micros in Salt Lake City. Arm wrestled Tommy Caldwell. Kissed Beth and Lisa. Drank free Happy Hour Drinks at the Emabass Suites after drinking free beers all over the show. Man it is good to be home.

Maybe next time eh?

Pope, No reason to have brought the skis. We went up towards Unicorn and the descent sucked yesterday. Yes, the south slopes were nice but going back down the North side to the car was crap. Once we were in the shade there was a typical 2" crust over soft snow. The final slope from the road to the parking lot was a mangled sheet of ice. Nice day though. Nice inversion.

It is also called Jay face. It is up the Icicle past Condor Butress. Same side of the road but a little further up. It looks like a broken and chossy pyramid until you get close to it. It also has a few ridgelines that can take you to the summit. Not sure where the couloirs are.

Vik needs images.

Beating the dead horse again? I remember this topic from a few months ago. I seem to see a reoccurring attitude about the treatment people recieve when dealing with Feathered Friends Retail. There is no excuse for ignorance though. If you do not know the return policy when making a conscous decision of purchasing a product that could be subject to no returns, you have caused the problem yourself. You can not blame a company who probably doesn't have enough money to afford lawyers to defend a liability claim when they say "no" for a return on a piece of climbing gear. It seems like the retail store was quite polite even though they had to say no so you don't have much to complain about. Enforcing a policy is not poor treatment to loyal customers, it is simply watching their ass so they can stay in business. I suggest you folks quit whining.

Went on Friday. Knee deep 100' above the lakes. Avy conditions were good. Careful skinning up to the road from the parking lot or going back down to the parking lot from the road. The talus field is still ridden with rocks. Have fun, I know I did.

Why stray so far from the topic? Too keep this post alive I have provived you with a wondeful image of Mike climbing Challenger. I think Mike had a nice 5 year hiatus(sp?) and then got married with children and stepped out of the hard man shoes. Now he is helping the Trailblazers keep the Alpine Lakes fish stocking program alive by keeping records of all alpine lakes stockings. I think this is a great achievement in its own category. Good luck if anyone attempts to ski it.

Does Kit still rockclimb? I heard he tied in also last summer. If only he would hang out again. Maybe Dave B. could talk him into rallying with us next spring? Beers in Seattle maybe?

Yes, Troll, chestbeat, etc. Yes, everyone should climb the route. Yes, someone will repeat it. No, don't puT in a pin Tim. what is it with you and pitons? What is wrong with a bolt protecting a groundfall? I say put a bolt in. Better yet spacehead, you and I will go up with a military duffel stuffed with 200lbs of rocks and stuff and throw it off your equalized ballz. Then we can decide if it needs a bolt or not.

The traverse will be repeated next year. The race is on.....

Not bad you guys. Slapp gets the first place prize... A weekend climbing trip to Vantage no expenses paid and he has to give me a ride. A beer from my six pack after I drink all of his. All the climbing BS stories you could ever hear, and then some more and later on possibly more.

N X NW gets a spare. Sparks and the smell from sparks gets a spare. Gee I was hoping someone would have a good story about taking out trees. So far its just rocks taking out other rocks.

Matt gets a spare. Although you probably should get a strike. Andrew gets a strike since it started a chain reaction and it was intentional. DBer gets a spare. Pete gets a spare. Sorry, it must be an intentional trundle to get a strike. Anyone else? [ 11-18-2002, 05:16 PM: Message edited by: Crackbolter ]

Anyone been lately? If so, what was the biggest piece of rock? The one who takes out the largest tree wins. Also, if you get 9 trees with one rock, you get a strike. If you take out 1 tree, you get a spare. Distance is also worth points. If your rock makes it to the road from more than 1000 feet up, you win.

Anyone been lately? If so, what was the biggest piece of rock? The one who takes out the largest tree wins. Also, if you get 9 trees with one rock, you get a strike. If you take out 1 tree, you get a spare. Distance is also worth points. If your rock makes it to the road from more than 1000 feet up, you win.

"NO DOGS!!!!!" This is what you say when they give you that stare while eating anything that has a crinkly wrapper sound. I do love Baskin, Tina, Jake and Khumbu though.

To be a real skier you need real snow, not duff on dirt.