Crackbolter

Nice westslope cutthroat in the lake too. Nice gear cache spot for the enchantments.

Tim or Jon, Please make this a permanant post. Fred Beckey will be doing a couple of slideshows soon. Tickets will be selling fast so you might want to buy them ASAP. See y'all there! Here is the URL for the Seattle Slideshow : Fred_Beckey Seattle Slideshow Here is the URL for the Everett Slideshow: Fred_Beckey Everett Slideshow

Here is my trip report: Sorry for being such a wanker friends. Go figure after skiing Park City, Deer Valley and the ridge behind chair 9990 at The Canyons in the backcountry it snowed 13" Saturday night and 22" last night after coming home. The skiing sucked except for the fresh snow in the B.C. Watched the Freeskiing World Championships at Deer Valley on Saturday and skiied man made corn. Drank shitty 3.2% alcahol content micros in Salt Lake City. Arm wrestled Tommy Caldwell. Kissed Beth and Lisa. Drank free Happy Hour Drinks at the Emabass Suites after drinking free beers all over the show. Man it is good to be home.

Maybe next time eh?

Pope, No reason to have brought the skis. We went up towards Unicorn and the descent sucked yesterday. Yes, the south slopes were nice but going back down the North side to the car was crap. Once we were in the shade there was a typical 2" crust over soft snow. The final slope from the road to the parking lot was a mangled sheet of ice. Nice day though. Nice inversion.

It is also called Jay face. It is up the Icicle past Condor Butress. Same side of the road but a little further up. It looks like a broken and chossy pyramid until you get close to it. It also has a few ridgelines that can take you to the summit. Not sure where the couloirs are.

Vik needs images.

Beating the dead horse again? I remember this topic from a few months ago. I seem to see a reoccurring attitude about the treatment people recieve when dealing with Feathered Friends Retail. There is no excuse for ignorance though. If you do not know the return policy when making a conscous decision of purchasing a product that could be subject to no returns, you have caused the problem yourself. You can not blame a company who probably doesn't have enough money to afford lawyers to defend a liability claim when they say "no" for a return on a piece of climbing gear. It seems like the retail store was quite polite even though they had to say no so you don't have much to complain about. Enforcing a policy is not poor treatment to loyal customers, it is simply watching their ass so they can stay in business. I suggest you folks quit whining.

Went on Friday. Knee deep 100' above the lakes. Avy conditions were good. Careful skinning up to the road from the parking lot or going back down to the parking lot from the road. The talus field is still ridden with rocks. Have fun, I know I did.

Why stray so far from the topic? Too keep this post alive I have provived you with a wondeful image of Mike climbing Challenger. I think Mike had a nice 5 year hiatus(sp?) and then got married with children and stepped out of the hard man shoes. Now he is helping the Trailblazers keep the Alpine Lakes fish stocking program alive by keeping records of all alpine lakes stockings. I think this is a great achievement in its own category. Good luck if anyone attempts to ski it.

Does Kit still rockclimb? I heard he tied in also last summer. If only he would hang out again. Maybe Dave B. could talk him into rallying with us next spring? Beers in Seattle maybe?

Yes, Troll, chestbeat, etc. Yes, everyone should climb the route. Yes, someone will repeat it. No, don't puT in a pin Tim. what is it with you and pitons? What is wrong with a bolt protecting a groundfall? I say put a bolt in. Better yet spacehead, you and I will go up with a military duffel stuffed with 200lbs of rocks and stuff and throw it off your equalized ballz. Then we can decide if it needs a bolt or not.

The traverse will be repeated next year. The race is on.....

Not bad you guys. Slapp gets the first place prize... A weekend climbing trip to Vantage no expenses paid and he has to give me a ride. A beer from my six pack after I drink all of his. All the climbing BS stories you could ever hear, and then some more and later on possibly more.

N X NW gets a spare. Sparks and the smell from sparks gets a spare. Gee I was hoping someone would have a good story about taking out trees. So far its just rocks taking out other rocks.

Matt gets a spare. Although you probably should get a strike. Andrew gets a strike since it started a chain reaction and it was intentional. DBer gets a spare. Pete gets a spare. Sorry, it must be an intentional trundle to get a strike. Anyone else? [ 11-18-2002, 05:16 PM: Message edited by: Crackbolter ]

Anyone been lately? If so, what was the biggest piece of rock? The one who takes out the largest tree wins. Also, if you get 9 trees with one rock, you get a strike. If you take out 1 tree, you get a spare. Distance is also worth points. If your rock makes it to the road from more than 1000 feet up, you win.

Anyone been lately? If so, what was the biggest piece of rock? The one who takes out the largest tree wins. Also, if you get 9 trees with one rock, you get a strike. If you take out 1 tree, you get a spare. Distance is also worth points. If your rock makes it to the road from more than 1000 feet up, you win.

"NO DOGS!!!!!" This is what you say when they give you that stare while eating anything that has a crinkly wrapper sound. I do love Baskin, Tina, Jake and Khumbu though.

To be a real skier you need real snow, not duff on dirt.

Cute dogs you guys. I noticed some guy drinkin a porter with a puppy. you gotta try this stuff!!!:

I have Chili's but I would rather have the Hammerhead with all the cartridges to change out. Best binding on the market (for those who ski only backcountry) If you are gonna mount the Chili's, get the riser plates if they didn't already come with them.

quote: Originally posted by terrible ted: quote:Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: For most people I would not recommend learning to lead on 90 degree slopes. Don't let your ego get you hurt ice climbing. Bring it on mellow and be happy with what you accomplish. Challenging yourself is good but don't let it bite you in the ass. Especially if you are leading and not just follwing up the rope like a robot. I still am learning and get gripped leading 90 degree ice. It's not like rock climbing. More work envolved for me. More strenuous. I couldn't agree more. You know you're in it deep when the thought "at least I'm going to die doing what I loved..." keeps going through your mind... Do yourself a favor TLG, and spend an hour or so "hiking" up and down the lower third of Obs. Rock working on foot placements. It's not as sexy as vertical ice, but it'll ramp up your technique even quicker than the styrofoam wall. Practice standing on your front points long enough to place two screws and build an anchor... Build an Ablakov anchor. OR is a great little climb. I'd be willing to escort you, but I sliced the tip of my finger in half and I want to give it a week to 'reanneal.' PM me if you want to go in November. -t Well said!

[ 10-28-2002, 08:33 AM: Message edited by: Crackbolter ]

Right On!!!