Crackbolter

I think the best option isn't to bolt the route because the Mountaineers use the climb in their curriculum but to evaluate the way The Mountaineers are doing their curriculums. I'd like to see the statistics of Mountaineer outing related injuries and deaths in the history of the club. Climb with the Mounties and you are going to epic.

What is wrong with bolts? Do you have something against safe climbing?

So you climbed it? Cool Ben. It sits in a cool place but I agree...long approach for the one route.

You guys know about Puff the Magik Dragon in Rat Creek? Kind of contrived since the route was climbed already. Since it was climbed by Doorish I guess the name has no merit huh.

Anyone? Split gas, leave in the morning, come back in the evening. Might be talked into climbing something on Temple Ridge if we can leave around 3am.

Look at the bright side; You were the first guys to climb the entire Picket Ridges and rate it for others to repeat. Pretty cool that I can do it and know it goes now...if I can climb at your abilities. The Stuart range is easier to know if someone has climbed your line or not. Conveniently grubbed placements and pin scars are easy to identify from angles and above. Not always the case but often enough. Seems like gneiss is harder to tell if others have passed. Any thoughts on this?

There you go gettin more booty again. New slings a plenty here mmmm?

I started reading Range of Glaciers recently. I read another called King of Fish and have also read many, many others related to the environmental impact of the Pacific Northwest. Rock climbers, mountaineers, skiers, backpackers and other foot and hand powered adventure seekers seem to have a common ground; environmentalism. Rant and rave but first realize the history of the decline of habitiat in the PNW. A bolt is a grain of sand in the ocean of impact that has been bestowed onto our resources. Go chop your bolts and kick over cairns and whatever else satisfies your needs but you are wasting energy in the grand scheme of what is really needed here. How many of you waste mass amounts of money every year caught in the consumerism of buying the latest and greatest climbing or skiing gizmo when you could be selflessly giving that money to a private fund contributing to the protection of our public lands? I'd guess everyone reading this post. I just wish I wasn't so much part of the problem rather than part of the solution.

They are. Good work guys, glad to hear it!

Here is a pic from the top of the barrier... Cross the slabs as if you plan on climbing West Mac. Read Jim Nelson's info in Selected Climbs Vol 1.

Here is the barrier. I suggest trying the gully.

No west arete or dorado? Shit, we never made it past the Triad! Nice job getting the summit after all that.

Yeah, whacked all the way down to Goodell and followed the creek until we regained the trail. The dotted line is somewhat accurate. I remember the white bubbly rock being the best section and the gully/chimney being somewhat dissapointing. Felt like mountain 5.7.

Climb: Terror -North Face Date of Climb: 7/31/2005 Trip Report: Dave, Greg and I went for the big one in the Southern Pickets. The climbing was pretty quick. Only a breif "where did the bivy site go?" after wandering around at twilight looking for it after getting off. We made force bivy from 11 til 4:30 and then walked 100 yards back to bivy. A big thanks to Dave for sharing his goods in time of need. The Southern Pickets from Chopping Block Col A good rest place Sunset photo The access to the Northern side Mustard Glacier Gear Notes: Ice axe, crampons, medium rack Approach Notes: Careful, we got lost going in and coming out and it was my second time up Crescent Creek!

Nice job! Please send an e-mail when you guys are ready to show the trip and tell the story by slide projector and beers. The photos of this trip are excellent. I can't wait to see the rest.

Here is an image of Rat Creek Drainage from Rabbit Ears/Cobra:

Climb: Temple Ridge Circumnavigation and recon-High Traverse Date of Climb: 5/26/2005 Trip Report: Started up Hook Creek and then traversed to the Temple bivy. Bivy'd at Temple Creek and then climbed out of the moraine below the Black Pyramid and through a col between the BP and Meteor to the South side to avoid having to traverse in snow the entire time. Traversed high accross the ridge and made it to the base of the first pitch on Prussik. Traversed high accross the snow slopes in snow on the North side until I was able to descend to gain the saddle entering the Edwards Mesa. Dried feet and boots on the mesa and descended out with a glissade or two. Heard climbers but never saw them in Hook Creek. Gear Notes: Ice Axe Approach Notes: Give it another month and the ridge will be void of most snow. It will be more pleasant and perhaps easier to traverse the North slopes but more difficult to obtain water while on route.

We all love you and are inspired by you Erik. You were someone who kept me going back into the backcountry rather than resorts. It was great to see the look on your face when you found out what I have acheived the last time I saw you at the climbing gym. It was great to know your family and to see them on Christmas day a few years ago and to know that you grew up only 2 blocks from Nunu. It was fun working with you at REI for that breif period of time. I will never forget the great moments of bouldering at Marrymoore Park or giving you a hard time about your tree collection or making first turns at Pinapple Pass. I try to hold the tears back knowing that I have lost another friend and partner to the Cascade Mountains. No luck, you are one my close friends dude! Have fun up there. I will remember you always. T-man

I have a pair of Asolos that have been sitting around for a while waiting for the right person to want them. They are 3-pin, leather high tops and are perfect for touring but too much for Crosscountry. I think they are called the Extremes or Extereme Racer. They have 3 buckles and are lace ups underneath. Hardly used! I will sell them to you for $30. No photo. I live in Ravenna and work downtown off Mercer. e-mail me at: crackbolter "at-sign" yahoo.com

Tenpeak. Looks like a stellar ski. Has anyone repeated the ski of the north couloir yet?

Forbidden Peak would be another by Lloyd and Fred

Not Rems...Farnham.

Dale just told me that it was the most spectacular rock climb he ever did. He also said nothing in Yosemite compared. Pretty cool to hear that from him.

I thought I would post something cool about Glenn: He just called me on the phone at Feathered Friends because he found a very new Murre sleeping bag in the lost and found at MRNP. He wasn't able to read the serial number from the tag at the bottom but was able to make out 3 of the 6 digits and describe the model and color. After going through our database, I managed to narrow it down to one definate owner and contact her to let her know that her bag was found and is waiting to be picked up at the Ranger's office. If Glenn hadn't thought about calling us, she would have been out a $450 sleeping bag. Glenn, You are an awesome guy!!!!! Thanks for going through the trouble of trying every avenue to return the bag to the proper owner.

If Martin Rand is still at Study's, use his expertise in boot fitting and you will have used the best in the business. If not, I might suggest Pro-Ski.