Crackbolter

Cute dogs you guys. I noticed some guy drinkin a porter with a puppy. you gotta try this stuff!!!:

I have Chili's but I would rather have the Hammerhead with all the cartridges to change out. Best binding on the market (for those who ski only backcountry) If you are gonna mount the Chili's, get the riser plates if they didn't already come with them.

quote: Originally posted by terrible ted: quote:Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: For most people I would not recommend learning to lead on 90 degree slopes. Don't let your ego get you hurt ice climbing. Bring it on mellow and be happy with what you accomplish. Challenging yourself is good but don't let it bite you in the ass. Especially if you are leading and not just follwing up the rope like a robot. I still am learning and get gripped leading 90 degree ice. It's not like rock climbing. More work envolved for me. More strenuous. I couldn't agree more. You know you're in it deep when the thought "at least I'm going to die doing what I loved..." keeps going through your mind... Do yourself a favor TLG, and spend an hour or so "hiking" up and down the lower third of Obs. Rock working on foot placements. It's not as sexy as vertical ice, but it'll ramp up your technique even quicker than the styrofoam wall. Practice standing on your front points long enough to place two screws and build an anchor... Build an Ablakov anchor. OR is a great little climb. I'd be willing to escort you, but I sliced the tip of my finger in half and I want to give it a week to 'reanneal.' PM me if you want to go in November. -t Well said!

Dropping the price of the 1080's to $100. Dropping the price of the Atomics to $200

[ 10-28-2002, 08:33 AM: Message edited by: Crackbolter ]

Right On!!!

Anytime.

Nice discussion guys. Nice to see such a great discussion. My only addition is that PTFE laminates do not have a permanant DWR on the fabric which over time means it is going to wear off and the fabric will wet out easily. This leaves you with a soaked down jacket which you must pack which can push the water into the jacket rendering the down matted out. At least with microfibers and encapsulated polyesters, the moisture can be wiped off before you pack it to eliminate this problem. Unfortunately for the PNW, it is tough to have just one jacket for everything. I own a light down vest for conditions closer to freezing and humid. This way, I can layer a waterproof shell over the down vest which does a pretty good job at keeping me warm and it also protects the vest from getting too wet. For colder conditions when I know I will need much more than a vest, a full on jacket or parka with an encapsulated polyester shell can't be beat. I still reccommend PTFE for 8000+ meter climbs. Only because the folks who are climbing these peaks can't really afford to ever get their down products wet. The weight is much, much greater but they will never have to worry about what happens if they are in a 5 day storm and their down bag gets wet. Nice to meet the infamous Lambone. Nice jacket!!!

No but you need to come and get your metronome.

I will try not to sell you on a F.F. bag but... #1, How long have laminates been used in the outdoor industry? 20 years + ? It is time to quit beating the dead horse. Stick with a bag that has encapusulated polyester microfiber or nylon microfiber. The fabric takes much longer to wet out and typically does a great job against condensation and perspiration and such. It is also pointless to use a bivy sack in combination with laminated fabric sleeping bag. Talk about zero breathability. Where does all of your perspiration go? Also, when the fabric on a laminate wets out, it takes either direct sunlight or pretty warm conditions to dry it out. Microfibers and encapsulated fabrics dry out as long as you wipe most of the moisture off of the bag. What is left will dry in no time. I have sent more than one person to Denali with the F.F. Snowgoose -40 bag with the Epic by Nextec fabric and the report was great. No need for a syl bag liner (VBL) and the down stayed lofty the whole time. Speaking of loft, laminates also decrease the loft of the bag because of how stiff the fabric seems to be. Somewhat pointless if you ask me. I always look at sleeping bags like a layering unit. You still need a shell for your sleeping bag just the same as you would for a fleece jacket. Either a tent or bivy bag. As far as the wren bags or Nunatuk's bag, I think they are great for what has been described but they aren't nearly as efficient as a regular mummy bag when it comes to keeping you warm at night. Too many openings mean too many cold spots. Just be sure to bring enough clothes to keep you plenty warm. This is just an opinion but this is what I do for $$$. If you have more questions, e-mail me at customerservice@featheredfrinds.com -T

What program is that? That topo image is sweet!!! I need to get it so I can do that. It looks like you were able to position yourself anywhere in the map facing any direction and receive a realtime perspective. Is this true? Man would this kind of thing save me some time! Please help.

I already have a pair of perfect tele skis ready to go. I would rather not ski fresh powder with skis 10 cm too short either. Plus having to pull the bindings and plug the holes and redrill is a pain when I don't need the skis at all. Thanks for the advise though.

Rodeo, Thanks for the cold one at Castle's Parking Lot on Saturday

Trying to sell a couple of downhill skis. The Gold Pass program has been cancelled which limits my excursions to backcountry hike and snowmobile trips. Going strictly TELE. Here it is: Atomic Beta Ride 9.22 180cm with Atomic Xcentrix 412 bindings. Recently tuned and in great shape. Valued over $700 asking $250 obo. Salomon 1080 twin tip 177cm with Rossignol 120 bindings. Still a few good years left. Recently tuned. Valued at $600 asking $150 obo. Both skis are priced way better than any ski swap or retail shop can offer. email me at customerservice@featheredfriends.com if you are interested. Stop by to check them out.

Ray- Your post had a good point. Nothing more.

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: I know a number of people that can climb 5.10+ in the mountains first try and some have done it on a new route. They don't seem to care about posting it on the internet... Some don't have computers... Is that the new "hardman" criteria these days. Seems like some low standards since some people were doing that 20 years ago. There is a lot more to climbing than new routes since beckey took most of the good lines here anyhow. My definition of a hardman is someone who can and has picked a few or many lines 5.10 of harder. Either that or at least had the aspiration to climb it free but ended up aiding it because it was unsafe or needed much cleaning. I think of the few who has lead bolted 5.10 or lead climbed on gear at 5.10. If you think this is nothing...go try it sometime. For those who have, thanks for being humble by saying it was nothing. It is something much more than you think. That is all I have to say for now. thanks for participating.

My bad.

It is hard to distinuish the B.S. from the truth from any one of you folks. I could ask if anyone has climbed an alpine trad route on-sight first ascent at 5.10+ and I coud be receiving some real skeptical beta. Who has REALLY climbed a ground-up (never top roped),on-sight, multipitch (more than 3 pitches?), gear belays (or maybe a couple of belay bolts),5.10+? Geez, my hat is off to you guys! I guess there is a need for a local hardman magazine. My point to Dru was overruled when he not only changed the rating of his on-sight F.A. from 5.10c to 5.10b, not that one letter grade matters. But also when he disclosed that he knows 20 percent of the P.N.W. climbing community. Sorry Dru but I try to pay close attention to detail when someone makes a claim to fame. [ 10-15-2002, 04:02 PM: Message edited by: Crackbolter ]

There couldn't be 50 different people climbing 5.10 alpine routes. Where do get 50 from 8?

I agree with you Dru. I know no one who goes ground up with full intentions of aiding a hard free line on a first ascent.If it looks like too much work, it's gettin rap bolted. Especially if it needs cleaning. Sorry Dru but there are plenty of 5.10 trad climbers in the PNW but not enough climbing them for the first time. If you are REALLY onsighting 5.10+ alpine trad routes, my hat is off to you. [ 10-15-2002, 11:19 AM: Message edited by: Crackbolter ]

quote: Originally posted by jon: Well fuckena maybe we should start our own magazine? As soon as the NW community gets enough to write about, it will happen. When was the last time someone did something noble in the PNW? When will we see more than a handful of FA's or FFA's in a year? Who will be the next Peter Croft, Greg Child, Pete Doorish, Fred Beckey or Paul Boving? As of today, I know no one (Well maybe I do but no one flashing 5.10+ alpine first ascents.)

Climbing Magazine sues Rock and Ice: http://www.outdoorbiz.com/outdoorretailer/search/article_display.jsp?vnu_content_id=1516090 [ 10-14-2002, 01:56 PM: Message edited by: Crackbolter ]

quote: Originally posted by Lambone: is it at 7 or 8, whats the dealeo? Beers at 7 in the shop. Slides are at 8. So far I think Atomic rep, Dana rep, Petzl rep and a couple of other reps will be there.

Come to the slideshow Ray.

[ 10-13-2002, 06:00 PM: Message edited by: Crackbolter ]