Crackbolter

I'll be there! if anyone wants to help out with the upper wall garbage that would be good. I was at the upper wall last weekend and noticed that those friendly rednecks threw off a whole bunch of bottles and cans and I think I saw a tire and a diaper. The base on the far left looks like a garbage dump. I am sure there is more garbage down the hill in the woods also.

[ 08-21-2002, 04:39 PM: Message edited by: Crackbolter ]

Blah, Blah, Blah! What an embarassing group. Mouth just can't stop moving, hands cant stop typing.

I suggest plentiful bolting at this crag. I can never get my cam placements to be trustworthy. I guess I just put them in for practice because I know if I fall on on that it aint gonna hold. The nut placements are bommer but they seem like they are gonna pop too. I guess I just need to stick to granite and quartz monzo.

Here is a question for all you crow bar carriers... What routes are retrobolted without the FFA or FA's approval? I can't think of any right now. Also, before you go and start yanking them out I dare you to lead the route without clipping the darn thing. Then it may warrant a little questioning but it still doesn't really allow an actual trip specially for chopping. Maybe you could just contact the FA (and discretely tell him/her that you led it without clipping that 3/8" plug. I'll bet then you will get your way unless your balls have a thicker coating of brass and they are the size of basketballs then you just need to quit leading routes and start soloing them. "Someone buy that damn drill!"

Im with ya Spacehead! Gimme that damn drill! I'll show you how to turn that 5.11 crack into a 5.9 sport route in a jiffy. No need to sit there gripped rattling off the route if you can clip and yard on draws! Lets go bolt something~

"Right now, Leavenworth climbing has no moral conscience. I am suggesting that one be developed. From your comments I can only conclude that your reasoning only goes as far as " more bolts are better" or "it is ok for anyone do drill anywhere". You are welcome to add your opinions toward the development of a "conscience", especially if it goes further than "you suck"." I will keep an eye out for you on lead turtling up a 5.5 trad route and then my partner will simulclimb past you clipping your gear as we go and then when we get to the top we will be sure to knock a couple of baseball sized trundlers while peeing down that 5.5 you so aestheticially shall ascend. Did I mention after you go home there will be nice rap anchors every 20 feet so I don't have to carry so much rope?

Can't take it Erik? Stick too far up yer asss?

How do I get to be able to hang out with the cool bar people of this message board? Is there a special handshake or wink or code word or something? Do I have to wear prana or Arc'Teryx clothing? I can lead with 4 or 5 beers in me but I get rattly and stuff. Would this qualify for a free membership to your private club? Do I need to be able to on-sight 5.12 trad or can I pull on a little gear every now and then? I live in Fremont and Ballaer is only a huck away.

What is all the fuss over bolting a crack? If there was a route 4 pitches tall and you could protect 3 or 4 sections with gear the pioneer would have to be sure to get it into the guide book what pieces to bring or the climber would have to bring a full rack to be sure he was protected. I know ethics call for the question: Scar the crack or put in a bolt?

Ain't nothin like a bolted crack! I love it when I don't have to bring gear and get to clip the bolts. I don't like pulling on cams and nuts as much as pulling on draws!