Alpinfox

Almost Caveman's first post. (this one is funnier than his first)

Update your link!

My partner lost his Olympus Stylus digital camera at City of Rocks on Thursday 10/14/04. It was in a small, green, nylon stuff sack. Probably lost in the Upper Breadloaves area (Bloody Fingers, Carol's Crack, etc). Camera looks like this: Please send me a PM or email (alpinfox at yahoo dot com) if you find it. I'm sure a reward will be offered for it's return.

Viola!

I'm not into "number chasing".

I've done lots of forgetable and crappy single pitch routes (Exit 38 and Vantage come to mind), but those aren't very interesting to talk about. So..... I doubt these were the WORST, but certainly disappointing: Kangaroo temple, SW face I think, Kitty litter. Redeeming features = cave and views NE Ridge Triumph. I built this climb up in my mind as a gem and was disappointed with the acutal article. Very little technical climbing, so-so rock. Redeeming features = PICKETTS VIEWS! NR of Baker. 1.5 pitches of somewhat steep climbing. Don't I get to lead a pitch!?!?!? WTF? Nice views and a great alternative to a snow slog, just don't expect lots of ice climbing. Sky Ridge, Smith Rock. Cool position, but uninteresting climbing on crappy rock. Mt. St. Helens, Butte Camp Route (I think?), in August. Two steps up, one slide down. Epic sunburn. What the hell was I thinking? Liberty Ridge, Rainier. This is also in my "favorites" list. I have never come so close to dying while climbing. Dangerous rockfall. Redeeming features: obvious.

The bolts on SWF of Prusik that I am aware of consist of two rap anchors (two 3/8" bolts + hangers + rings) about 35m apart and two single 3/8'" bolts which were right next to an easily protectable crack (0.5 camalot size). I don't care if they were power drilled or notand I don't really care if they were placed on rappel or not, but I do care that they are 35m apart (annoying if they are meant for rappelling rather than climbing) and that the two single bolts are right next to a protectable crack . I saw these bolts when Gary_Yngve and I got off-route (too far west) trying to climb the SF or Prusik this summer. Maybe these aren't the same bolts ya'll are talking about, but I assume they are.

Favorites: *DEB SEWS + SW Rib link (thanks BP) Barber Pole + NF Concord + WF NEWS link (thanks BP) Davis-Holland/Lovin' Arms (thanks BP) Synchronicity, Lillooet (thanks Dave + Ken) Zebra-Zion, Smith Rocks (Thanks Lunger) *Liberty Ridge, Rainier (thanks AS) *West Buttress, Denali (sort of PNW right?) (Thanks J and J) Outer Space (the first time I did it, the second time wasn't as exhilarating) *WR Forbidden (pretty much my first genuine "alpine" rock climb) Da Toof + Bryant ridge traverse, seriously. (first alpine solo) *Hood, South Side (my first cascade volcano, beautiful sunrise, etc) edit: OK, if I can only pick 5, I'll go with the *ed ones. Most looked forward to climbs I haven't done yet (this list makes me sad because I didn't do ANY of them this year) Complete N. Ridge Stuart SF Prusik (I'll stay on route next time, I promise) NEB Slesse NF Hood Triple Couliors, Dragontail Great topic skyclimb. I'll be adding several more routes to my "to do" list after reading this thread.

Yes.

Yeah, I heard Utah is BYOB.

Thanks for all the advice thus far. Partner and I and about 400lbs of #2 camalots are heading out tomorrow. Any last minute recommendations?

Sitting on the couch and watching Mr. Favre kick some ass starts in..... ... 54 minutes.

I got a little fer you since you didn't show at Smiffy.

Gotterdammerung is German for "Twilight of the Gods". It is the title of Act III of Wagner's epic Ring Cycle opera. p.s. As for what the guy means, I think it is entirely dependent upon context, but obviously it has something to do with disagreement/fighting, etc.

Who says bolt protected climbing can't be scary? Lunger preparing for the hand traverse on Sky Ridge We topped out on Sky Ridge and I caught a cool Silouette of these three guys. I don't know who they are or what route this is, but I'm pretty sure they climbed Delerium Tremens and Heresy this weekend. Michael Layton is a better climber than a joke teller. Here he is shining like a "Morning Star" in the lower gorge. Pssssttt.... I see drunk people.... Zebra-Zion is my new favorite route at Smiffay. Lunger tackling the final pitch in his "phallus" shirt. A view of Cocaine Wall from the top of Zebra-Zion. Note sporto monkey on "Vomit Launch". A most excellent weekend. Thanks (I think) to TG for the and to all you fine folks for being excellent climbing partners, storytellers, and goofy humans.

HEY TIM!! DO YOU NEED ANY BIO.... oh. nevermind.

I was in Jim Nelson's shop the other day and he seemed pretty stoked on this jacket: Integral Designs eVENT Rain Jacket. 9.5oz. I tried it on. Nice.

Shit! I didn't think of that... I might have to take up a collection.

I'll be down there late tonight. When are you planning to arrive? I'll buy them from you if I am around, but my guess is that you won't have any problems finding a cc.comer willilng to buy three kegs for a penny.

Klenke, I think you mean "free-solo" instead of "free-climb". I also think you made this same error in your Guye Peak TR.

Nice work guys. Too bad there wasn't any ice. I'm surprised.

I agree. Perhaps there is some way to make a sticky message in the Photo Gallery or in the posting process to encourage people to label their pics?

Wow, you are getting married on my birthday. Congrats. Panty Wall has lots of easy sport climbs 5.6-5.10. It is located at the first pullout on the Red Rocks park loop road. Ultraman Wall has a few good 5.8/9 sport routes. It is also accessed via the first pullout. Calico Basin has good stuff too and it is outside the park so you don't have to pay the entry fee. The Falcon guide "Rock Climbing Red Rocks" by Todd Swain is the book I have. It's pretty good. Check out this thread.