Alpinfox

Well I'll be damned.... Petzl Reverso page Click on "technical notice reverso" see figure 7. No backup prusik is shown in the diagram though.

There is no difference between a hole drilled with a power drill versus a hand drill. However, a wise insect once said, "power drills allow too much development too fast" whereas hand-placed bolts, due to the amount of work invested, "tend to be better thought out". Not verbatim. Good points bug.

Yes, two is the norm. If you place more than that, a booty alert siren goes off in the headquarters of the Argentinian Climbing Club and they send up a flourescent lycra-clad delegation to collect their prize.

WA Pass daytrip? Yer mad! Too far doooood. Unless you wanna drive of course....

While I found Lambone pretty annoying recently and Merv's obsession with bolts gets a little tiresome, I'm disappointed that they were banned.

You cannot ascend the rope with a Reverso, B-52, or any other belay device that I know of. The autolock function of a Reverso only works when you are belaying a second from ABOVE. With a Gri-Gri you can free climb, take up slack, free climb some more, but that's a pretty sketchy way to "ascend the rope". If you do a lot of multipitch climbing, (especially in groups of three) I'd get the reverso. If you do mostly single pitch stuff, any of the standard belay devices will do the trick and be smoother and cheaper than a reverso. I've heard if you are a "substantial fellow" or climb with people of "no slight girth", then the B52 will give you a little more biting power on your brake hand, but I've never used one. I own and use a reverso, BD ATC, and a GriGri. The Matrix looks pretty similar to the reverso, but I haven't used it.

Hey, I'd like to do some climbing for 2-3 days this week. I can leave Tuesday morning. Looking for a 5.10 trad/5.11 sport partner preferably in the Seattle area (to split gas costs ) interested in going to Squamish, Tieton (interested in the long routes on Goose Egg Mtn), WA Pass, or maybe a couple of less well known spots I know. If you only have a day, we could hit Index. Email Alpinfox at yahoo dot com or PM me here (preferred) Cheers!

A light dusting on Saturday morning, pretty much gone by Sunday evening as viewed from I-90. I hope you got on it and I hope you spell it correctly in your climbing journal.

No shit! Good on ya F4. I am fucking disgusted by the republican party. Anybody know what the emmigration policy for Canada is?

Well I didn't count, but I remember the two 5.10 pitches having what was probably more like 10-12 bolts in less than 30m. I definitely remember more than 4 bolts/pitch on the first 5 pitches. The only pitches that aren't closely bolted are the chossy ramp pitch that goes up and right (there is an old pin there) and the three (or so) 4th class scrambly pitches in the middle of the route. I can't remember what pitch it was, but there is one point where you have a bolt just below your feet, a bolt around your knees, and you are clipping a bolt above your head. In any case, I think the quality of the route is over rated and the only reason it is notable is the novelty of its length. It's a shame that it has caused so much uproar and conflict with land managers. I recommend that anyone looking for lots and lots of pitches of granite slab climbing go to Darrington or Static Point instead. Any two good routes there will have more quality climbing than IB.

Hwy 61

Lambone, you have been a real jackass lately. Why don't you go climb something and post a TR and quit spewing shit all over this website. Sorry you have to put up with this trash in yer nice little toof thread Chuck. I've climbed duh toof 5 times ( once in winter via NE face <-click ) and got shut down on it once (S face in winter). I like Da Toof.

Or maybe a single middle finger in the air would convey the same message? I was climbing on/near Icicle Buttress today and there was a chopper circling around south of the snow creek wall area. Kind of above temple ridge I guess.

Alex, have you done IB? I think your bolt counts are off by a wide margin. I considered the route to be pretty heavily bolted. Dru, have you done DEB on SEWS? The bolts are confined to two bolt ladders of about 6 or 7 bolts each. Most of the route has no bolts at all.

I've seen people carrying beers in their chalkbags while climbing. Is this accepted technique? Is it aid to use a chalkbag or should you have to keep the beer in your hands at all times to claim the "amber point"? Inquiring minds want to know.

Thank God for Tom Ridge! L I N K

My answer is: WHO GIVES A FUCK? If you don't like a particular style, don't do it that way. Sheesh.

Probably would be better to start a new thread about this, but here is a quote of Klenke from another thread. Bold print is mine.:

I dunno why it isn't working now. It was working 15 minutes ago. It seems the whole site is down. Here is the URL: www.geocities.com/misofranko/mega_traverse.html

I disagree. Due to the housing of the cam, the ascender does not tend to partially engage and slide (ripping the hell out of the sheath in the process) whereas the tibloc can do that if it's not fully engaged or a less than ideal carabiner (nor round cross-section) is used. I've seen tiblocs rip up ropes, but have never seen a petzl ascender do that. I would think that a bunch of inexperienced folks trying to jug ropes with tiblocs in a hurry would be a recipe for fuzzed ropes. Fuzzed ropes are still plenty strong though. You would go a lot faster and more confidently with real ascenders, but tiblocs weigh nothing. Muffy, I have heard of people putting tiblocs on intermediate pieces while simulclimbing to prevent a second's fall from pulling the leader off. Perhaps the guy you saw was using that principle.

Here is a photo-essay of a hottie (well, at least she has nice back muscles) doing a bouldering traverse in Horsethief Reservoir in Colorado: Link

Yeah it was pretty impressive. 8" crown, 500ft slide. Avys in September Fortunately, no one was seriously injured. Made for nice skiing after it slid. Early bird may get the worm, but second mouse gets the cheese!

ABC News is going to do a story on "Disappearing Glaciers" as part of their newscast tonight. 6pm to 6:30 in Seattle on Channel 4. Edit: Pfffttt! nevermind. That was a waste of time.

The snow just hovers above the ground for the rest of the year eh? BTW: Nice pictures. Mossy.