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Crackhead

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Everything posted by Crackhead

  1. ahhh... the three essentials; whiskey, bud, and cigs. They'll always make you feel better during a cascade monsoon(or even a cascade bushwhack).
  2. The ultimate everything is a fun line up the chief. never super hard, never exposed... just a fun line. Good training for long routes in Yosemite... reminds me a little of the royal arches. Check out seal cove too, some cool shit. a fun traverse for sure.
  3. The North wall looks wonderful from the traverse above... did it last week ... Excellent rock!
  4. what is the story with chiliwack? It's oh so close to home.
  5. It would be an epic marathon... Don't forget to go swimming in the lake at the beginning of the uphill before glacier meadows. You would really be missing out on something refreshing.
  6. Trask- you're making me shoot milk out my nose!
  7. I soloed the sulphide on Monday with perfect conditions! I got to the summit pyramid right as the sun was hitting it, but the central gulley was still frozen solid. FUN 180' of 5th class ice to the top. Rapped off the pyramid to the slushy east. Then I rode my splitboard down for a kick ass day. 11 hours car to car at a moderate pace. Hardly a soul in sight... just me and the ravens
  8. Yup! Hot on the Kone on Wed. Juan was that you who left the blue metolius cam? Got it out for you... hope you found it. I tore out old rap slings... and added new... took out lots of garbage slings. The Kone kicks ass.
  9. I'd like to snowboard down the Sulphide... I plan on going solo, but a fast partner would be great! I'll be skinning up on my split board, so you should be on skis
  10. Coley...You can climb it with 3 pitons... and no rope. You'll need 4oz. of water and 17 goo packets. you can also duct tape your crampons to your 5.tennies like Renando the amazing.
  11. It's a great piece for simul-climbing also. Just place after the crux (not lengthened on a sling) to protect the follower. Viola... if they fall they don't pull your ass down too.
  12. Long traverses on a snowboard will make your calves like Popeye's!
  13. Cracks will be climbed in early October. I Will haul your shit up that big El Cap stone... just need a mentor. More ridge routes in Tuolumne to fall. You say Horsecock? I say Cockscomb.
  14. Anyone need a partner for next Mon., Tues., or Wed.? This is a route that I've been pondering for awhile! I've got a split board, and can't wait to ride down. Experienced on snow. E-mail me
  15. yellow and red...shiznat Those are my absolute favorites. Bomber. I've never tried horsecock... I hear it tastes like canadian chicken. Bok Bok eh?
  16. Mark Twight can climb 5.11 in crampons. Superior edging ability, although slabs might be tough. Just fit them SUPER tight so you can pull off those big dynamic moves easy.
  17. I hear that the south face is a sandbag... is this true? I've done the west ridge, and the south side looked over hanging from above.
  18. Lessons to be learned here...
  19. Colchuck slog is fun. take a snowboard. ride snow
  20. I enjoyed all of the climbs there. I was intimidated mostly by the rusty 1/4 inch spinners, but thought the climbing was easy on Off Duty. Make sure and do the climbs to the left... not intimidating. lots of great bolts. Does anyone know the names and grades of all these?
  21. Amber is really Coley from the American Alpine Institute.
  22. The duty dome is cool. Did you see the two routes in the corner to the left of off duty? there is a bolted 5.8 up the arete, and a 5.9ish dihedral corner. Both have excellent anchors. good climbing. The climb on the right of off duty has too many bolts. There are great places for natural pro the whole way up... good climbing though...reminds me of condorphamine...
  23. 1)unscratched gear 2)North Farce action suit 3)Doesn't know Grade 4 from a4 4)Climbs at Burgers and Fries, and sprays about being a 5.11 climber after pulling on draws
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