Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About boonecounty

  • Birthday 11/26/2017


  • Occupation
    Urchin beater!
  • Location
    Boonecounty, MO

boonecounty's Achievements


Gumby (1/14)



  1. My name is Ryan and I am road tripping to whistler from colorado. I am looking for climbing and kayaking partners for the next two weeks in bc. I am pretty free from the 14th to the 18th and want to climb tuning fork, life on earth, and steinbok/springbok aretes. Send me an email: boonecounty@hotmail.com
  2. Looking for a partner for the Stuart Glacier and Ice Cliff for this week. I am off Monday - Thursday. I can lead all pitches if neccessary. Email me at: boonecounty@hotmail.com
  3. Yeah Tyree, in a fit of sleep exhaustion I made it back at 6:55am, brushed my teeth, and strolled into the office! Although I must admit I was walking a little slow that afternoon.
  4. Climb: Snowcreek Wall-Hyperspace Date of Climb: 7/13/2005 Trip Report: I convinced Tradchica do quit ropegunning for her boyfriend Frosty the Tradman and come climbing with me for a two days. We arrived in L-town late on Tuesday night. The next morning we obtained bivy permits for snow lake and headed up to snow creek wall. (We were on our way to S. Face of Prussik to meet Frosty) Climbed Hyperspace in 7 excellent pitches. While it was not the ultra clean rock found in the Sierra's it was an excellent route and very sustained. Pitch 1 - We started with me leading the first pitch of RPM 5.10 + thin slab. Right at the start of the route there is a cleaned out place in a seam for an orange TCU. I suggest you place it because I whipped off and this and Tradchica's excellent belay where the only things that kept me from decking. Anyway after the crux and the 2nd bolt which I yarded on after falling the climbing is easy and you can make it to the big ledge therefore combining pitches one and two. Pitch 2 - "Psychopath pitch" Pretty chill. I fell after trying to work back into the seam two soon. For me the trick was to climb left on the face holds high and then make a stem back to the right side of the crack and swing back in. Tradchica climbed the crack straight up and would have cruised it except one of the hybrid aliens I used to protect the crux was a pain to clean. Pitch 3 - Tradchica takes the lead and cruises up and around a roof on the right side. Then follows crack up to a ledge on the left. Easiest pitch on the climb. Pitch 4 - The crack goes up and into a blocky overhanging wall. It looks really tough from below but it is not that bad. Climbs like a 11a sportclimb with good natural gear. I hung a piece though. This pitch ended at bolts on the face left of the crack. Looking up you could see the bolt heading out right for iconoclast and onto the apron. Pitch 5 - Tradchica climbs the steep corners around an overhang on the left and up to the belay with the big bush visible from below. An excellent pitch with 5.10+ crack climbing and good pro. Pitch 6 - The pressure chamber. Make sure you get over to the right hand crack immediately. Otherwise you can cruise up a nice crack into a sticker bush and then make some scary barndoory hard moves back to the crack to the right. I suggest just going right from the start. The pressure chamber was severely butt kicking and I aided through it because I was tired, it was getting late, and if you give me some time I can think of some more good excuses. It was vedavooish! Tradchica worked higher then I did and then cruised the rest with a 3:1 client belay. Pitch 7 - Looked tough and tradchica elected to let me lead it because I had not yet had a clean lead on the route! This last pitch was possibly my favorite. Go up the TCU eating corning for 20 feet then traverse left on a small ledge. The ledge goes out into space and you are stuck doing a step across move over space and swinging into a nice crack. Head up and turn the roof on the left with nice 5.10 moves. Cruise to the top and set a belay. Overall a great route, very sustained! We then hiked up to snow lakes and climbed the S. Face of Prusik the next day, but I will save that story for another day. Gear Notes: Aliens, TCU's, Stopper, and camalots, small cams useful on psychopath pitch. Approach Notes: Easy 1 hour approach.
  5. Climb: Mt. Hood-Coe Glacier Date of Climb: 8/1/2004 Trip Report: Heading from Bend to the airport in Portland to pick my up my friend the Hunter, I realized I was driving by the sprawling plantation of Dick Pumpington in Terrebonne, Oregon. The Limo was in the drive so I figured he was home. I gave him a call to see if he had any route suggestions for my friend and I. His secretary patched me straight through to the speakerphone at the pool. Pumpertino was in and had just climbed the Coe Glacier on Mon/Tue. Ricardo highly recommended the route saying it was perfect plastic and that it took great screws. Upon his recomendation the Hunter and I drove up to cloud cap saddle on Saturday evening and crashed out. We awoke at midnight and busted out of camp at 1am. We hiked up onto snowdome and then across and down through a saddle to the Coe. We reached the icefall and picked a line up the middle. First pitch was excellent thunker ice taking great screws. We then clawed our way through some ice fall debris and up to the next wall. This pitch was thoroughly excellent taking great screws on good ice. We simulclimbed for a while through crevasses until we reached a crux section at approximately 9000ft. Here I turned the lead over to the Hunter who had had crampon issues the entire route at this point. (New Boots + crampons + living in Missouri + inbread redneckedness= crampon malfunction) He finally straightened out his crampons, we doubled the ice floss and he lead a super fun pitch. From here the difficulties eased to steep snow and snow bridge crossings over monster gapers. We ended on the top of the snowdome and hauled ass down the mountain. The snowdome was perfect for boot glissading. We arrived back at cloud cap saddle around 10 hours roundtrip for some quesadillas and a nap. Thanks Ricardo Pumpington and Billy for this suggestion before we head to the North Cascades. Great route, with snowbridges melting out it will get spicier with time. I have some great pics, I just have to figure out how to submit them. Gear Notes: 1 ice floss 8mmx60m 2 pickets 7 ice screws runners Black Prophets & Sabretooths Approach Notes: Usual Approach
  6. With 2.7 million dollars in either revenue or profit it seems that Lou could pay his guides above minium wage? I am not sure what the pay is at RMI for their first year guides but last time I checked a few years ago it was like 70$ a day. I hope they open the route up to other companies that actually pay their guides a reasonable wage. Or allow AMGA certified Alpine Guides to apply to guide other routes on the mountain.
  7. I believe if I am not mistaken that the climbers on the South East Ridge are none other than Richard Pumpington and Billy. It is a sweet pic and makes the sister look very exotic.
  8. Gonna be rolling on my way back to Missouri through the colorado front range. Looking for a partner to do Pervertical Sanctuary and the Obelisk in a day. Climb up PS and rap, climb Obelisk and rap. No summit I have already been there enough. Anyone interested let me know. I know the approach, and rap, and have been on the diamond a few times. I am willing to lead all pitches if my partner doesn't want to lead. call me or pm me 760-920-3441
  9. That has to be the funniest post I have read in a while. sorry about the car! At least you got Yak crack and reality check. I have been up there once for that and gotten rained off. Maybe next summer.
  10. Glad we were around to help out J. That wheel was super stuck!!!! Scared the shit out of me when it finally exploded off of there. My friend and got so frigging sunburned on Silent Running. We hike up there and figured we would simul climb most of it and we did. Problem is we took of our shirts and didn't put them on till the end. As we drove to Portland so he could catch a ride we had to stop periodically to rub aloe vera on each others backs. Pretty scary looking I am sure to onlookers. Anyway bivied in Hal Burton's living room and made the airport. You weren't kidding when you talked about hot feet. Hope to run into you next summer when I come back. Thanks for marking the trailhead for me!!!!!!!!!!!
  11. Congratulations guys sounds like a amazing climb! Wayne thanks for the beta on DNB Bear. I am psyched that you can be so excited and open after such a big climb wayne. It is pretty sweet when a idea starts as a dream, turns into a goals, and finally becomes a realized accomplishement. Vince Lombardi, "It is time for us all to cheer for the doer, the achiever, the one who sets the goal and ames for it unswervingly." Wayne, Marko, and Colin congrats I might just have to journey up for the slide show. I am very impressed by your vision.
  12. Have you ever heard of a place called Bear Mountain? You are entering a world of fu**ing pain if you go there! I had wanted to do the DNB on Bear Mountain ever since I saw a picture of it in the '97 Climbing day planner. Knowing that it would require massive suffering and will power I recruited another bullheaded redneck from Missouri for the ascent. My friend Cory had never climbed a route longer than 4 pitches or summited a mountain in the cascades yet he quickly agreed to give it a go. I didn't show him the route description or approach beta until we were driving along the chilliwack lake. When we got to the border we told the canuck that we were going to do Bear Mountain. He asked where it was and we informed him that we parked in Canada and hiked back into the US. He quickly started telling us how illegal this was and made a couple of calls. He said there was a high probablity that if we did this we would be caught by US border patrol and in a Seattle Jail in 1 hour. Thanks Canuck! So we headed up and crashed just outside the chilliwack provincial park on a logging road. The ranger informed us that if we parked for our "day hike" at the standard trail head there was a high probability that our car would be vandalized. He was quite helpful and told us a few options for parking the car. We ended up parking it up a logging road after dropping the gear at the trail head. We then camoflauged it with brush and for good measure rolled several small child size boulders onto the road hoping it would be a deterent to drunken canucks. We headed in on the trail and the first 1.5 miles to the end of the road were sweet. Do not take the orange blazed trail 20 feet after the end of the road on the left it is the long way. Instead hike in until you see a trail off to the left with a white ecological reserve sign at the fork between the two trails. Follow a reasonable trail marked occasionally with orange blazes. Take care all reasonableness of this trail dissapears soon. Skirt around a swampy section of the river and proceed. There are sections were the trail approaches the river and you have to force yourself through brush for a 100 feet or so. Don't loose the trail!!!!!! 1.5 hours in is a swampy section with tricky trailfinding if you don't stay on the trail you will miss the interconnected downed trees that allow you to cross the swamp. Growing up in the Missouri River bottoms is great training for this section. After that section continue on trail with intermittent heavy sections of brush. Once past the Chilliwack Camp sign congratulate yourself on finding your way down 3.5 miles of the trail. The next 2.5 miles can be done in 1 hour but you need to boogie. Soon after the chillliwack camp you hug the river for several hundred feet. Orange blazes mark the trail as it hugs the disapearing river bank. The next section we dubbed, "Vietnam tunneling simulator." Duck down and push through extremely thick vegetation for a ways crossing two bridges in the process. If suddenly you cannot push further into the brush you are probably off trail! Upon emerging from the brush the trail through the US is actually nicer than the canadian side. There are sections of extremely thick brush, including one half way through were you wish you had a flamethrower, weed wacker, and machete. But for the most park the trail on the US side is up on higher ground and open making for faster travel. Upon reaching Bear Camp we went for a swim in the river and drank some water. We headed up the trail for 10 more minutes past bearcamp and turned and went up hill at a high point in the trail with a 7' diameter tree 20 feet to our left looking uphill. The first 500 vertical feet were tough going with lots of large deadfall. Around 3200ft we ran into a drainage running cross slope. We followed a game trail left and around the end of the drainage and continued uphill mostly straddling the the point on the spur. We could occasionally hear bear creek plunging to our left. The path up was pretty reasonable until around 4500 ft were we encountered around 700 vertical feet of slide alder. We happened upon a trail, or more correctly a pass of least resistance marked with orange blazes and pushed upward until the way started to flatten out and we emerged in meadowland above Ruta Lake. This is key, get water at Bear Camp! We chugged some and decided we would get some at the lake and save carrying water up the hill, big mistake! We had to descend 300 feet to the most mosquito infested lake I have ever seen and get eaten alive while filling our camel baks. These guys laughed at our deet! We then climbed back up and followed a minor trail along the left side of the ramp until high above the lake. Around 6000 ft we dropped over the ridge and traversed to a second ridge. Cross this ridge around 6000 ft. There is 15 - 25 feet of thick fir trees but if you cross it here you won't get cliffed out like if you go higher. We went higher on the way in and descended a nasty 3rd class gully. Anyway cross down and over talus and hike up to the col at 6400ft. It took us around 11 hours taking our time to accomplish this. The next morning we slept in and started the approach at 6am. We traversed down and around the three buttresses. Climb up on the glacier around 150 feet before eyeing the obvious dihedral that is pictured in Cascade Select I 2nd edition. We belayed off the snow, here is a pitch by pitch description: 1st pitch: Cross the moat and traverse up and right into the dihedral, set a belay at a stance 50 feet below roof. 2nd pitch: Go up and over roof not bad, save a red camalot to protect moves! and continue up dihedral. 3rd pitch: continue up and left and pull through wierd little chimney follow cleft up and left and then step right onto grassy ledge Now here I think we lost the regular route for a while! 4th pitch I went left into a white rock scar and climbed the left side of this feature up and left to a ledge. 5th pitch: up and through some wild moves on a flaring overhanging chimney crack. 6th pitch: Climb up and right pull on a small sap covered tree because I had no pro and was 30 feet above the belay. Continue for a while leftward leaning ending with a traverse around a corner to ledge. 7th pitch: Arrive at enormous ledge covered with snow and eat snow and drink water until sufficently hydrated to continue up ward. 8th pitch: climb obvious rightward slanting crack, pass awesome ledge and continue up 5.8 blocky face cracks to small stance for belay. 9th pitch: Climb blocky face cracks to sweet clean white corner (past fixed old mank TCU) to large ledge. 10pitch: climb onto even bigger ledge were the beckey route joins in and go up right facing corner until able to climb licheny rib up and left to ledge at the base of offwidth pitch. (full 200ft with a little simul) 11th pitch: Climb up offwidth and step right around corner into another corner and climb to nice ledge atop offwidth. 12th pitch ran the 5.7 pitch up to rappel anchors and continued up 5.9 face climbing (maybe best moves on route) using the left side of the arete protected by small #5 and #6 HB offsets until I reached a small stance with a fixed piton. 13pitch: climb up and right to large ledge and wide crack in corner to top. Walk across ledge with big drop right and left. 14th pitch: Climb up easy 5.6 tower and traverse along spine to shoulder. 15th pitch: Simul climb to the summit. Off of summit headed toward just setting sun. For future reference you don't need to summit if you just want to get off the bugger. We headed down and eventually cruised down a green gully until it dropped off abruptly into steep gully. We crossed at the top and descened a rib until able to lower packs and do 15 feet 5.0 downclimb into gully from here we cruised back to camp and passed out. 1:15 minutes from summit to camp. The next morning we hiked out and it took us 7 hours from col to car. I highly recommend and so does my partner that you go to McDonalds in Chilliwack and check out the hotty 16 year old girls working behind the counter. Then traverse to the other side of vedder road and check out the hotties working at Dairy Queen for dessert. After all the climbs I have done in the Cascades this was probably the toughest. Liberty Bell Crack, and Mt. Stuart North Ridge are warmups for this climb. Bring a small rack, big balls, and a will to survive. My partner cranked it out on his first alpine rock climb and carried a pack with ice axes and crampons. For those of you looking for a long commiting route way out there go do the BEAR! Yeah Billy! ps. we did evade the border patrol! The big joke the entire way in and out was man a bet a border patrol guy is hiding in that swamp, behind that tree, or in the middle of this tunnel through brush. On the way out we hoped to get caught and be in Seattle in time for dinner, but to no avail.
  13. After flying solo lately I hooked up with Richard_Pumpington, Billy, and Dr. J for a trip up the W. Ridge of Forbidden. Started at 4:30am from the trail head. Trail was easy to follow but steep going. Contrary to popular opinion we didn't need poons or ropes for the avalanche paths. We just stayed on the big trail and stepped over logs and debris. Boston Basin was absolutely beautiful and we followed the trail to the base of the couloir. The schrunds were a little sketch but frozen and we cruised up to the top of the couloir. We were all wearing trail runners with aluminum poons. Beware of marmots where we left the packs at the notch in the ridge. Soloed delightful rock all the way to the summit 5.5 hours from the trailhead. (- would be proud) Descended with two rappels on the ridge, and two on the descent. There are a million rap anchors on the route so don't worry about finding a nasty nest of crappy webbing to rap off of. At one section there were 4 rappel anchors within 20 feet of each other. We had two 8mm X 60m ice floss and this helped for the couloir rapping. Hauled ass on the way out. Richard_Pumpington said the only thing that could have made the trip better was if Will Strickland had come along. We decided against inviting strickland for four reasons: the couloir had already been onsighted, there was no 5.11 A3 desert sandstone on the route, due to the plethora of Portland ice that was in we figured he would be out scoping new lines, and last but not least no one wanted to short rope him up the entire approach. Car to car was 10:20 minutes. We headed to Marble mount to hit the 'good food' shack. We charged the entire trip to Mr. Underhill's credit card, want the number?
  14. My goal in life is to convince people I have climbed Mt. Hood even though I ride the cat when possible! Fejas it is cool you can take shit as well as give it. Hey Figger-eight go climb something! As for working in the office a. I don't work indoors b. I don't own a computer c. I live in a van and climb alot! d. the only time I am on here is when I am so worked from climbing I have to take a rest day. Not very often but usually after 3 mountains in a row I take a day off. Last Friday Stuart, Sun Hood, Tue W. Ridge of Forbidden. Later this week Sun attempt DNB Bear, then slesse. So when I sit down in front of the computer I am one tired mofo, in search of some library air conditioning. I just feel lucky to be able to live like this! If only I could park my van down by a river somewhere!
  15. You know what I love about cc.com. You get a bunch of tools who sit at the computer in there office all day and pass judgement on other people. Does it really matter in your life how someone else climbed hood. I am stoked the guy climbed hood and got the awesome view, and was not killed by rockfall with such a late start. The rest of you guys are such little richards for ragging the guy. For a lot of people just getting up to the summit is a incredible experience. It is only later when you become proficient that you began to culminate a sense of style. I like light, fast, solo or with one other good partner, but thats just me. If someone likes chairlift, slog, and long slog down through ski area who am I to judge them. You guys need to take all the time you spend spraying on here and do some training instead! This guy is not going to steal your thunder out of your ascent of hood. He is just doing the best that he could.
  • Create New...